Crash and burn harvest?

Waited waaaay too long to post about this sad first grow so I’m basically debating when to harvest the buds that are there. Guessing there’s not much point in feeding more nutrients at this juncture. Started added cal mag weeks ago to try and address but did not see improvement and have only seen rapid leaf die off.

-indoor spider farmer sf-2000 light at 18”
-ventilated carbon filter outtake, no intake
-wk 5 into 12/12 light schedule
-fox farm of soil
-boogie brew aact every other watering (roughly)
-cal mag supplemented a few weeks ago.
-ph unknown

Main question I have is when to pull and if there’s any reason to expect any improvements of bud or leaf growth. Thanks.

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Looks more like nutrient burn. As long as it doesn’t start to affect sugar leaves she’ll be fine to let ripen more.


Thanks. So you think just water at this point to help flush nutrients? Haven’t really been adding much of anything other than the aerated compost tea and cal mag recently. I was just concerned about how quickly the leaves would spot and yellow.

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She doesn’t need any nitrogen for awhile. Use calcium nitrate and/or magnesium sulfate instead of calmag if they show signs of needing them. Most calmags have nitrogen, which you don’t need more of at the moment. I’d probably water only and see what happens. Add some bacteria maybe.


Wow sorry to hear that on your first grow…,My first was very deceiving (It went pretty good) But this year not good @ all So I know how you feel. Your leaves are nuked but the bud looks good!!
P.S. In that second picture the reflection off the mylar… Cool!! I like the way it kinda “smeared/blurred” and made it look like that Van Goh pic a starry night (or whatever its called lol)


This could be your issue. You need to ph your water and you need to know the ph of the soil. Testing the run off water is a quick way of knowing where your soil is ph wise.

If the ph of you soil is off the plant won’t be able to absorb nutrients properly


Been there done that buddy.

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@Weedman420 To accurately check and adjust you PH, start here, it will tell you a lot!

Measuring the pH of soil / soilless runoff

How to test the pH of your soil mix

The pH of soil is just as important as with hydro applications, but few people know how to test soil pH to see if it is within the optimum range for growing robust healthy plants. Here I will try to explain my method of testing any soil / soilless mix, enabling me to spot any problems and correct them if necessary.

Firstly, wait till your soil has dried out and is due for its next watering schedule. Then take some plain water that you usually water your garden with, and adjust the pH to 7.0. You must make sure that you know the exact pH of the water going into your soil, and the neutral 7.0 is best, but anywhere from 6.5 – 7.0 will suffice.

Then place your pot into a bowl of some sort to catch the runoff water, and then start to water your soil slowly (with your pH- corrected plain water) till the water starts to drip from the bottom. It’s the first drops of water that will give you the best reading of your soil, so make sure to water slowly till you see the first droplets. Then remove the pot from the bowl to eliminate excess water entering the bowl. Then perform the pH test on the runoff and compare it too your initial test.

The results of the runoff test will likely be lower than your starting value of 7.0. If this is the case, a small drop of 0.5 pH to 6.5 pH (example) would be ok and your soil needs no further alterations at the moment. But that’s not to say that it won’t need any future tests at all, just not at this time.
[Editor’s note: It may be beneficial to obtain an initial sample, as well as a ‘full flush’ sample in separate bowls. In addition, test several plants in the garden just to verify your results]

What if the pH is off?
If your results prove to have dropped considerably, say to around 5.5 (which can happen in late stages of flowering), you will need to add some lime into your soil to help buffer the pH back up again.

Remove the first inch or so of soil, taking care not to damage any roots whilst performing this task, ensuring that your pH is correct should be done throughout the life cycle; this will help eliminate any nutrient lockout that may occur. I recommend doing this once a month just to keep the PH in check, and you should never have a problem with deficiencies caused by pH lockout. Then sprinkle the lime into the pot, nice and evenly at a rate of 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of lime per gallon of soil. Then replace the soil you removed earlier, and saturate the soil good to wash in the lime.

Do the same test next time your plants need watering just to check that everything is fine, if more lime needs to be added then just repeat the process again till you reach close to 6.5 – 7.0 with the runoff.


FLUSH them with the appropriate solution and trim all the dead yellowing leaves.
Any grower who has experienced nutrient burn knows the argument that plants cannot expel excess nutrients holds no weight. Ask any seasoned cultivator how to fix nutrient burn and they will tell you: You need to flush your plants and allow them time to use up the excess nutrients.The same logic applies to pre-harvest flushing. You’re giving your plants just enough time to use up surplus nutrients, salts and other compounds.

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Thanks to everyone who responded. I’ll check the ph and flush. Sounds like a good starting point anyway. Guessing I only have up 4-5 weeks at most left though if it’s going to go a full 10 weeks at 12/12.

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@Weedman420 You’re still early in flower, so the girls should do very well after their first flush. If you do it correctly, you should see them start bouncing back within a week.


I sure hope so. This feels promising. I was getting ready to chop and throw in the towel after seeing how much the leaf loss progressed since I got back from vacation a few weeks ago.

@Weedman420 Actually, the girls don’t look too bad. Instead of flushing, you may just try a heavy feeding for a few days, to get them going. Get a lot of runoff from each plant. See how they improve over a week.

Don’t underestimate the importance of exhausting the spent air and bringing in fresh in the future

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Yeah, I have a 4” outtake fan w carbon filter because I was worried about the smell. How would you prevent light from entering if there’s an intake hole with a filter? Black fabric? This is a homemade cabinet in my garage.

:pray: we’ll see! I’ve debated about trying the fox farm nutes or if it would be worth it at this stage. Any luck w those? I’ve avoided this far because I’ve wanted to keep it an organic grow.

If you use the FoxFarm trio line, use their 3 flower nutes too. 1. Open Sesame, 2. Beastie Bloomz, & 3. Cha Ching. BUT! Use them at half (1/2) strength.

Even a black towel would work

I agree take her to harvest and see with fox farm soil it’s a good idea to know ppm of soil to tell you when to add nutrients I’ve done a dozen grows with it and don’t feed unless I see a deficiency start usually magnesium first but when ppm of runoff gets bellow 800 this least tell you when your soil is running out and not to over feed ppm pens average around 8$ on Amazon and keep a journal of this it will help you as a grower :v:

Whelp. I think she’s done. Every day it looks crispier and more brown and there are not really any leaves left. Seems pretty damn dried out at this point anyway even though soil is moist beneath the surface. I don’t have a great meter but the ph runoff was coming in around 7.5 for what it’s worth. Thanks for all the replies.