Confusion over proper Ph

The “Grow Schedule For Soil Growers,” calls forPh of 6.2 and 6.0 with the last couple of waterings of 6.5.

I tried this method and it eliminated all problems that I had with flowering, My only problem was getting the PH down to where I needed.

It took a lot of water and Ph down as the Ph wouldn’t change until all nuitrients were wash out.

I realize that a Ph of 6.5 is optimal but I always run into deficiencies of different sorts when I try and maintain a 6.5. I believe it’s because Ph tends to climb over time until it’s unhealthy for the plant.

The Schedule for ILGM saved my crop. Now, I’m being told that I’m wrong and that I need to grow at bloom at 6.5

We need some more information!

You’re too quick! I was editing! @Rod

COPY/PASTE: This “Support Ticket” into your forum post.
Answer these simple questions the best you can.
If you do not know, or do not use something; Just say so = NA

Strain; Type, Bag seed, ILGM… name of strain:

How many plants:

Age from Sprout and Flower:

Soil in pots, Hydroponic, or Coco / Brand and type of Soil & Size of Pots:

How often do you water and how do you determine when to do so?

PH of water and runoff or solution in reservoir:

What is strength of nutrient mix? EC, or TDS:

Indoor or Outdoor:

Light system, size and height from plants:

Temps; Day, Night:

Humidity; Day, Night:

Ventilation system; Yes, No, Size:

AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier:

Co2; Yes, No:

Add anything else you feel would help us give you a most informed answer. Feel free to elaborate, but short, to the point questions and facts will help us help you


What kind of info?

See above @Rod

What kind of soil are you using? and what is your water’s normal ph before adding nutes and adjusting?

@Rod, there are growers on here who deliberately “feather” their ph value from ph 6.5 down to 6.0 throughout the grow to make nutrients available at different times during the grow. Also, water ph has a natural tendency to go up after it’s ph’d and you can take advantage of this phenomenon by ph’ing to 6.0 occasionally in soil.


Thank you. I truly like the results of doing so.

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Soils sit in different classes some are peat based Soil-less :wink: some are dirt based Organic both have slightly different qualities and ph levels buffers.
A standard soil less can be kept quite close to hydro ph levels which as many soil less growers will attest can be a pain but even a plant strain can want ph at slightly different ph, I use Promix HP which has little to no added nutrients but does have ph buffer my best ph range tends to be 5.8-6.3 lower i have issues higher I have issues :wink: but in flower my ladies like lower during veg they like higher. Part of this is learning what works for your plants.
In an organic which I have grown in too I tend to stay close to 6.5 entire grow since soil decomposes it tends to create a happy ph level so long as not over watered and I keep ph of nutes and water in 6.3-6.8 range.
Soil less tends to get more acid over time this is the result of nutrients building up in medium which is why most use a feed water water and always water to a 10-20% run off also the reason that many will choose to flush and ph correct prior to flower. The reason ph ranges can be varried during growth stages is simple plants don’t always want same nutrients in same doses so at early points they want N Calcium Mag iron etc… during later points they want P-K zinc mang you can manipulate what they get most of via ph not just diet


Well said @Donaldj! Thank you.

Thank you Donald. I’ve been growing for about 11 years. I make my own soil from peat/sand/lime/cow manure and clay pebbles for drainage.

I think what happened was, I wasn’t getting good flushes in the past and I also placed two bricks in the drainage pan to keep my girls high and out of any water that might drain out of the bottom of the pots.

I also think that I did not flush enough due to a very bad back and my age 73 is a handicapp. I will pay much closer attention.

My weed is Jack Herer and White Widow. Both need about the same inviroment, so I’m not too concerned in regards that issue.

I use Fox Farms 3 ferts as well as Cal Meg.

It’s obvious that few flushing was my main problem because what is happening with my plants is like a miracle. I have four Jacks ready to harvest next Monday and they look real good. A few more days at 6.5 water only and it’s harvest time.


Very true. Guy at hydro store says you need to flush the adolescence out of them before switching to flower

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According to, my
first flush is the second week of Flower because the soil has been flushed
in the last Flowering cycle at last day of week 6. I reuse my soil.

I used to grow hydro but gave it up due to hot weather. I do fine during
the winter but water gets too warm during summer and all kinds of fungus
grows in warm water. I like soil better.

I think I’ll be fine as long as I use my home made soil and flush because I
suspect my problems came from not flushing as much as I should have. My bad!

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P.S. By doing the 6.0 and 6.2 Ph., it allows for the natural rise in Ph
which is bound to go up with each feeding.

I just bought a new Ph soil tested. A

Bluelab PENSOILPH Soil Tester pH Pen
for $120.00 because those 12 and 14 dollar Ph meters are worthless. I’ve
been through too many. Hope this works out better for me.


I fertilize with FLOWER POWER up until I’m 4 weeks away from harvest, then it will be nothing but Ph 0.6 till harvest

I don’t know how your last email got deleted but it did. Sorry.

I received the seeds 20 WW and my germination rate was the worst ever. I have 2 small plants that in fact look like WW. The first leaves are almond shape, like they should be. I’m hopeful for a female in order to clone. Otherwise it’s a wasted effort.

I normally get 85 to 90 percent germination which I believe is a good rate due to seeds that are just duds.

Seeds, when put in water to germinate floated which told me immediately that they were not viable to begin with.

I’m not asking for anything in return but would advise you to check your suppliers very carefully. Your getting bad and wrong seeds in your orders and that can’t be good for business.


Most MJ seeds float for up to 24 hours before sinking. I have 100% germination success with ILGM seeds. It is certainly possible that you received seeds that weren’t viable but it’s worthwhile to look at your technique to make sure there isn’t an issue there.

You should contact customer support and they will make it right.


My water was 6.2 Yes, the seeds sank after 24 hours but failed to sprout after 4 days. They were not viable. I’ve been growing solid for the past 13 years and have sprouted many many seeds. My technique is simple. sprout in water, keep in darkness with 6.2 Ph and once sprouted, I transfer to General Hydroponics Rapid rooter plugs. Unfortunately, I only had 2 sprout out of 20. I guarantee, it wasn’t me that made any mistakes. It was bad seeds.

The good news is that I believe the two I have are the correct WW strain because the leaves are more almond shape as in Indica, opposed to the sativa strain I originally received. They, at maturity, had small amount of trichomes as compared to the original order of WW which is White with trichs and very very sticky.

When it takes months, after first ordering seeds, and I still don’t know whether the two sprouted are the original WW that I ordered. It gets frustrating. To say the least. By now I should have had harvested several times with clones. But that’s not the case.

Makes me ill just thinking about my money and schedule is a waste of time.

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Hopefully you have reached out to the seedbank for compensation for the seeds? You would be getting replacements for the ones not germinated. Nothing to be done about the lost time but that’s not really something that they can realistically compensate you for.

I’ve had WW express sativa and indica characteristics so I’m not sure how easily one would be able to determine strain during veg.

I figure that I’m working with a living thing and anything can happen. So I keep seeds on hand in the event of a failure to launch. I have 5 Crystal seeds that won’t see any soil until late summer.

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Not very many on this forum use this method, but after wasting $100 on seeds that wouldn’t pop I was pissed. I posted a thread about seeds not germinating. Someone told me to use Hydrogen Peroxide in my water. I took their advice and had 100% germination. I learned how much to use (1ml H2O2 to 30ml water) and I’ve successfully germinated every time since with no paper towel needed. 2 of the 5 blueberry autos I germinated last week had a fully formed plant in the water that the seed husks had fallen off of. All 5 blueberries are growing just fine. I can’t guarantee you’ll have the same success, but I know I can’t afford to waste even one $10 seed.

If you had so poor a germination rate do indeed contact support they will do their best to get you back on track