Confused and completely lost, Leaf Septoria

I have narrowed my issue down to leaf septoria. I have tried Green Clean, Spinosad Soap and a H2O2 spray. The infection has moved from my older girls (harvesting in 2-3 weeks) to my 5 babies that just started flower a week ago.
Other than increasing my Hydrogen Peroxide to 3 Table spoons of HP (was using 3 Teaspoons) or doing a baking soda spray (this dries out leaves so not too keen on using on my plants), any suggestions? I can’t increase airflow, outdoor plants and I can’t moved them in, no indoor setup.

Is this picture spider mites? If so, nothing I have sprayed has worked on them either.

Yes it appears to be mites
Try this out @garrigan62 gave me the recipe a while back

Spider mites:

Spider mites are by far the worst pest to have, because they are the hardest to kill and can literally kill any plant. They are by far more active in warmer climates than cold ones, they also suck sup from the leaves leaving tiny white spots on the leaves from where they suck on. The damage they do is just like thrips, but with spider mites they pierce the surface of the leaves and can show tiny holes or white speckling damage, unlike with thirps they eat the surface of the chlorophyll. You can tell when you have infestation of spider mites , because you will have distorted growth, shortened internodes and petioles.

When you have bad infestation you will see webbing with larva in them. You get spider mites from either store bought soil mostly when your soil is not sterilized. Most brands do not state weather or not they are, chances are if you buy cheap soil, you have a less likely chance of the soil being sterile.Also, bringing outdoor plants indoors, or getting plants from someone else who was infected with spidermites.

Spider mites live on the plant itself and are under the leaves most of the time and are usually are so tiny you can’t see them with the naked eye. In order to get rid of spider mites one of the best ways to start to get rid of them is to use NO-Pest strips.NO-Pest strips work well and should always be used with other methods. Neem oil helps get rid of them as well. Also by raising the humidity in your grow room a lot will kill the spider mites off, by them absorbing to much humidity and will burst. You can use soap solution like Safer Insecticidal Soap to get rid of most aphid problems. Use some tobacco juice and chili pepper powder added to this for mites. (see below how to make tabacco juice)

Pyrethrum should only be used in extreme circumstances directly on plants, It starts to breaks down around a week and is easily washed away with clear water or. If your plants are in flowering and you have spider mites, using safer chemicals is your best bet. The tobacco and pepper soap solution works well and should be used daily, spraying on the underside and top leaves and later the whole plant. Since spider mites are very residual to common products, you have to find or try any number of ones untill you get rid of them. make absolutly sure you retreat as stated, other wise you will get resistant spidermites and then you have a bigger battle on your hands.Also do not allow pets that go outside alot to be around indoor plants,mites have been known to be carried in from pets to plants. PLEASE NOTE, below are ways to get rid of spider mites, but no 2 mite infestations are identical, you almost always have to use different products to get rid of them, also make a habit to check for at least a whole month after thinking you got rid of them, that way your chances of the spider mites that became resistant breeding and then having a bigger problem. Make sure you spray your plant down very good and enough and on time.

Here are some more products that may help get rid of spider mites:

Hot Pepper Wax,Safer Yard & Garden Insecticide (which can be used right to the day of harvest),GNATROL( used in hydro in the water as well as soil),Doc’s Neem Pest Soap,Safer Sticky Stakes,TR-11000 Pyrethrum. Anything that says dicofol on the back. ( should be used in vegging or early flowering)

Avid

GNATROL( used in Hydroponics/Aeroponics in the water as well as soil)

Safer Sticky Stakes

TR-11000 Pyrethrum

Anything that says dicofol on the back. ( should be used in vegging or early flowering)

PERMETHRIN dust

Organics

Organocide

Hot Pepper Wax,

Safer Yard & Garden Insecticide

Doc’s Neem Pest Soap

Organocide

Bugzyme Natural Pest Killer

Schultz-Instant Insect Spray

Lady Beetles (Beneficial Insect)

Predatory mite (Beneficial Insect)

Pirate Bugs (Beneficial Insect)

Neem Oil

Neem 2

Tabacco Juice recipe

Take 3 strong ciggeretes soak them over night in water

Boil it for 2 to 3 miniutes, let it cool off and spray the plants 3 to 4 times a week. You can add safer soap if you like to the mixture.

(make absolutly sure you use gloves/face protection while handling and spraying)

Neem oil works very well too!!

ZBQ has an excellent thread on how to use neem oil without geting your plants to oily!!
Your Last resort is to use Avid.

5 Likes

My problem seems to be twofold then, Leaf Sept AND mites…correct? Or are the leaves damaged and dying from mites feeding on them?

No to me it looks alot like White Powdery Mildew im on my tal- let wright now but as soon as i jump off here i’ll hook you up

Sorry but your wrong. I’ve looked at your plants and blew them up and I knew right then and there what it was. Here’s are some pic’s of White Powerdy Mildew

pm2

white-powdery-mold-marijuana-leaf-sm

THIS IS SPIDER MITES

spider%20mite%231

droppings

AND THIS IS LEAF SEPTORIA

I’em just trying to show you why I say what i’m saying. I hope you can see this to and make your decision’
But here is what to do for

WHITE POWDEREY MILDEW

What causes White Powdery Mildew?

High Humidity

WPM needs moisture to thrive, but that doesn’t necessarily mean it needs water.
Having a grow area with
high humidity is all WPM needs to grow. This seems to be a bit problematic since
young cannabis plants
grow best in relatively humid environments (40% -60% RH). Luckily, high humidity
usually only becomes an
issue when it’s combined with the next cause (low/no airflow).

People who live in environments with extremely high humidity (such as Florida
and the UK) can purchase a
dehumidifier to control humidity in the grow area. This is especially important
during the flowering phase
when humidity needs to be much lower (45% rh) to prevent rampant growth of WPM
and bud mold.

Low/No Airflow

White Powdery Mildew has a hard time settling in a grow room where the air is
being moved. High humidity
will give WPM the conditions it needs to survive, but poor airflow is what gives
it the ability to settle
down in the first place. In fact, a small (preferably oscillating) fan moving air
in a grow area will prevent
the vast majority of White Powdery Mildew woes.

Poor Ventilation

If you have WPM spores in your grow area and the air in grow area is never
exchanged for fresh air, the
spores get multiple chances to land on your plants and reproduce. This happens
most often in conditions
where cannabis is being grown in a closed, unventilated space - such as a closet -
and precautions aren’t
taken to exchange old stale air for new fresh air.

Leaf-Leaf Contact

Leaf to leaf contact = moisture = White Powdery Mildew!Leaves that are touching
each other will form
moisture between them, and thus they become more likely to contract WPM. Untrained
bushy/leafy plants
with lots of new vegetative growth are especially prone since plants will often have
leaves mashed up
against each other as they try to reach the light.

Advanced growers can defoliate some of the fan leaves that are completely shaded
from the grow light
to make fewer choice landing spots for White Powdery Mildew. Also, defoliation
frees up energy for the
plant to use when done correctly and increases yields! See our article on
defoliation for more info.

White powdery mold on the stem of an outdoor plant - White powdery mold can
grow nearly anywhere on the
plant that’s exposed to air.

How to Eliminate White Powdery Mildew

As I mentioned earlier, I recently had a battle with White Powdery Mildew. Rather,
it might have been a
battle if I noticed it later or waited to fix the problem. That’s the one good
hing about WPM: in most
cases when WPM is caught early, you can remove all traces of the mildew without
harming your plants.

There are quite a few products and homemade concoctions people use to treat WPM.
Among the effective treatments are:

Milk (1:9 ratio of milk to water)

Baking soda (2 tablespoons per gallon of water)

Neem Oil (4 teaspoons per gallon of water)

Hydrogen Peroxide (1 teaspoon per gallon of 35% H202)

SM-90 (1:5 ratio of SM-90 to water)

Rather than go into these methods, I’m going to give you the simple strategy I use
that gets rid of White
Powdery Mildew on the first try, every time! Here’s my trusted 3-Step White Powdery
Mold cure:

1.White Powdery Mold: Ruiner of beautiful plants.Remove White Powdery Mildew from leaves -
Get some water
(tap water works fine) and some paper towels. Wet the paper towels and use them to g
ently wipe the mildew
off the affected leaves whilst being careful not to jostle any leaves with spores on
them. Using a wet cloth
will ensure that more spores stick to the cloth instead of becoming airborne. Note:
While it isn’t necessary
to use paper towels, their disposability helps to curb the spread of spores from one
leaf to another.

2.Ensure plants have proper airflow and ventilation - Even if you have absolutely no
airflow or ventilation
in your grow room, having even two fans will drastically reduce your chances of
encountering WPM while also
benefitting your plants overall health. One fan should be oscillating if possible
and should gently blow air
over your plants. All the plants need is enough air to gently rustle their leaves.
The second fan should be
in your grow room pointing outward, pulling heat away from your plants (only needed
if you have no ventilation).
Having a fan pointing out of your grow room will force old air out of the room, and
in turn, pull new air into
the room. At this point, you’ll have new air coming in, being used and circulated,
then kicked out. Keep in mind
that two fans is a minimum.

3.Treat plant with SM90 to kill spores prevent future growth - Mix 1 part SM90 to 5
parts water(I’ve found 7 parts
water to be equally effective) in a clean sprayer/mister. Wait until just before your
lights for off for the day
and mist your (newly cleaned) plants. Get all the leaves! This diluted SM90 mixed will
kill any spores it touches,
and anywhere it lands becomes uninhabitable for future spores. Plus, it’s safe to use -
even during flowering - and
it smells awesome.

There you have it. If you end up running into White Powdery Mildew, give this advice a
shot and you won’t have to
deal with it past that first day. If you do end up using these steps, feel free to
let us know if it helped you or
not, or how you did it differently. When growers know just a little bit about this
disease, it doesn’t have a chance!

1 Like

I was looking at last picture @garrigan62 and after taking a better look at the pictures prior I believe your correct :wink:

Good save buddy

1 Like

You guys see WPM on my leaves?! How the hell did I miss it?

1 Like

Well that’s ok cause we got them problem solved. If you take a close look at the picks you posted and the ones I posted you can see what it is right off the bat. It’s one of thus things when you grow outside, Let me know what you plan on doing and please keep me posted and I’ll help you when ever I can.

Will

1 Like

But look here

I see webs I still see what could easily be spider mites @garrigan62 @Countryboyjvd1971 it’s one of this last pics

2 Likes

Ya, I see that to and your wright. He has two najor things going on here.

Here is what i got:

Spider mites:

Spider mites are by far the worst pest to have, because they are the hardest
to kill and can literally kill any plant. They are by far more active in warmer
climates than cold ones, they also suck sup from the leaves leaving tiny white
spots on the leaves from where they suck on. The damage they do is just like thrips,
but with spider mites they pierce the surface of the leaves and can show tiny holes
or white speckling damage, unlike with thirps they eat the surface of the chlorophyll.
You can tell when you have infestation of spider mites , because you will have distorted
growth, shortened internodes and petioles.
When you have bad infestation you will see webbing with larva in them. You get
spider mites from either store bought soil mostly when your soil is not sterilized.
Most brands do not state weather or not they are, chances are if you buy cheap soil,
you have a less likely chance of the soil being sterile.Also, bringing outdoor plants
indoors, or getting plants from someone else who was infected with spidermites.
Spider mites live on the plant itself and are under the leaves most of the time and
are usually are so tiny you can’t see them with the naked eye. In order to get rid of
spider mites one of the best ways to start to get rid of them is to use NO-Pest strips.
NO-Pest strips work well and should always be used with other methods. Neem oil helps
get rid of them as well. Also by raising the humidity in your grow room a lot will kill
the spider mites off, by them absorbing to much humidity and will burst. You can use soap
solution like Safer Insecticidal Soap to get rid of most aphid problems. Use some tobacco
juice and chili pepper powder added to this for mites. (see below how to make tabacco juice)
Pyrethrum should only be used in extreme circumstances directly on plants, It starts to breaks
down around a week and is easily washed away with clear water or. If your plants are in
flowering and you have spider mites, using safer chemicals is your best bet. The tobacco
and pepper soap solution works well and should be used daily, spraying on the underside
and top leaves and later the whole plant. Since spider mites are very residual to common
products, you have to find or try any number of ones untill you get rid of them. make
absolutly sure you retreat as stated, other wise you will get resistant spidermites and
then you have a bigger battle on your hands.Also do not allow pets that go outside alot
to be around indoor plants,mites have been known to be carried in from pets to plants.
PLEASE NOTE, below are ways to get rid of spider mites, but no 2 mite infestations are identical,
you almost always have to use different products to get rid of them, also make a habit to check for
at least a whole month after thinking you got rid of them, that way your chances of the spider mites
that became resistant breeding and then having a bigger problem. Make sure you spray your plant
down very good and enough and on time.
Here are some more products that may help get rid of spider mites:

Hot Pepper Wax,Safer Yard & Garden Insecticide (which can be used right to the day of harvest),
GNATROL( used in hydro in the water as well as soil),Doc’s Neem Pest Soap,Safer Sticky Stakes,
TR-11000 Pyrethrum. Anything that says dicofol on the back. ( should be used in vegging or
early flowering)

Avid
GNATROL( used in Hydroponics/Aeroponics in the water as well as soil)
Safer Sticky Stakes
TR-11000 Pyrethrum
Anything that says dicofol on the back. ( should be used in vegging or early flowering)
PERMETHRIN dust

Organics

Organocide
Hot Pepper Wax,
Safer Yard & Garden Insecticide
Doc’s Neem Pest Soap
Organocide
Bugzyme Natural Pest Killer
Schultz-Instant Insect Spray
Lady Beetles (Beneficial Insect)
Predatory mite (Beneficial Insect)
Pirate Bugs (Beneficial Insect)
Neem Oil
Neem 2

Tabacco Juice recipe

Take 3 strong ciggeretes or more soak them over night in water adding hot chili power
the hotter the better. And
Boil it for 2 to 3 miniutes, let it cool off. Then using ladies nylon socks strain other
wise you won’t be able to spray it. and spray the plants 3 to 4 times a week. You can add
safer soap if you like to the mixture.
(make absolutly sure you use gloves/face protection while handling and spraying)
Neem oil works very well too!!

3 Likes

@garrigan62 I plan to continue use of Green Cleaner I ordered for aphids. Would it be harmful to the plants if I used GC and H2O2 on alternating days?

Thank you all for getting to the root(s) of my issues. I was chasing my tail trying to figure this out, I missed the obvious right in front of me. Now that I know the issue is not Leaf Septoria, I can work on getting rid of PWM and SM.

I think my problem started when I used the sprinkler to water them. I have gone back to watering with hose on non feed days. Live and learn.

Is this the stuff

https://www.amazon.com/Central-Coast-Garden-Products-Cleaner/dp/B0791KQTNJ/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1537327352&sr=8-9&keywords=green+cleaner?tag=greenrel-20

3 Likes

IF IT IS…ABSOLUTLEY use it till there both gone

3 Likes

Sup @garrigan62

?

This post is way old. However, people like myself still have them pop up browsing around. I was about to explode seeing this post when the guy said you were wrong. I do agree with the powdery mildew but to me the biggest thing that was missed diagnosed that I would like anyone who happens across this old post to know is that you were ABSOLUTELY RIGHT about the Leaf Septoria! That was absolutely a pretty severe case of it. I know because I am having a big run in myself and I’m sure you found out it will crush your plants right? I have tried everything but cannot get rid of it to save my life and it has completely destroyed my Sour Diesel and I’m fighting it as hard as I can to save my Silver Haze plants from the same fate. BONIDE Copper spray does NOTHING! Working on getting them inside for the last half of flowering. Leaf Septoria is new to me and it is everywhere now. The person/company who solves this issue will make $$$$$$$$!!!

3 Likes