Confused about deficiencies


#1

Good morning all! I have a problem, and I’m looking for some info from more experienced growers.
I’m currently grown in a DWC system. 1000w light, 3x3 tent. 4 different plants: Chocolope, Purple Haze, white widow, and durban poison. Each of the plants is suffering from some kind of deficiency. The pictures demonstrate the symptoms. There are spots appearing on the bottom most leaves, working their way up the plant. I suspect it is a phosphorus deficiency due to over watering with my auto watering setup. I have since discontinued the usage of the auto watering pump, but I’m not happy with the improvement the girls are making. I have adjusted my pH to remain between 5.8 and 6.0 for the past week or so. How can I tell that the girls are actually making an improvement? Is there another method of testing that isn’t just “Sit and wait”?


#2

Damaged leaves will not get better , they will always be damaged till the plant drops them or you pull them off.
The new growth is where the answers are.
1000w in a 3x3 , boy I bet it’s a Lil bit challenging to keep the heat under control, huh? This could lead to the girls drinking more , because of perspiring.
I’ll call Donald and some other hydro guys
@Donaldj @kabongster @Bryan @Screwauger


#3

To me it looks like calcium, potassium, and phosphorous, but that’s just a guess.


#4

Let’s start with a Support Ticket. Please answer as fully as possible. Also;

What is the capacity of your DWC?
What nutes?
What is the TDS of your feeding and how frequently?
How often do you check PH of the working solution?
How are you measuring PH? When did you calibrate last?

To create a grow support ticket we need some basic information to help diagnose the issue.

COPY/PASTE the below list into your forum post.
Answer these simple questions the best you can.
If you do not know, or do not use something; Just say so = NA

Strain; Type, Bag seed, or NA

Soil in pots, Hydroponic, or Coco?

System type?

PH of runoff or solution in reservoir?

What is strength of nutrient mix? EC, or TDS

Indoor or Outdoor

Light system, size?

Temps; Day, Night

Humidity; Day, Night

Ventilation system; Yes, No, Size

AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier,

Co2; Yes, No

If you can, upload a picture of your plant. It helps the diagnosis, if needed.

Add anything else you feel would help us give you a most informed answer. Feel free to elaborate, but short, to the point questions and facts will help us help you :slight_smile:

Thanks!


#5

@JonathanStrange

We really need pic’s in natural luight. At this point i’em only guessing and you don’t need guessing and I don’t want to…lol

Will


#6

check your tds tds should be around 500-800- depends on how old the plant is ,ph should be 5.2-6.2 i try to keep mine at 6.0, heat should be no lower than 60 degrees and no higher than 80 degrees best is around 75 degrees , humidity should be 50-60 do not go by your feeding chart use less then recommended, use about a 1/4 less then the chart says till you get them where you want them the manufacturer goes high on nutrients so they can sell you more than you need ,less is sometimes better ,when in veg stage they love nitrogen and flower stage they like phosphorous ,over feeding is common ,they look pretty dark purple to me , a little mag cal works very well , if your doing hydro trying flushing if you don’t have the bible i would recommend it best book i have read , everything you need to know is in this book


#7

My problem always started with water temperatures too high (or I was). This leads to root rot, nutrient abnormalities, and smaller “Elmer Fudd Bud Syndrome “. I am guessing your issue may be Phos deficiency, as it’s uptake increases ya need more bloom nutrients with higher % P. If that is incorrect, I sure need to know cuz I get your problem frequently.


#8

I would also check the TDS of just your water to see where you are at. I fought the same deal last grow and finally realized I had super hard water here. I fixed that and have had no issues since. Other than that, I have no useful info :grinning: The others can get you fixed up. They got me on the right track.


#9

water temp is a problem ,i put a small fan over the water reservoir helps keep the water cooler ,water temp needs to be 10 degrees or more than your grow area , i am growing in 5 gal buckets i raped my buckets with insulation to keep the heat down , you dont want root rot then you will have a problem , if in veg stage look at nitrogen 1st , a little mag cal works wonders


#10

and yes it could be hard water check your water with your tds meter i also let my water sit in my resorver for a day before adding my nutrients this will take out the chlorine in the water all tap water has chlorine


#11

Welcome to the forum!


#12

Nug-bug: I know the leaves won’t be getting better, so I’m not worried about that. I guess the thing I’m really curious about is: is there a way to tell that they are improving without just waiting for new spots to not form.

As far as the heat goes, my setup is actually pretty good at getting rid of the heat. It’s pegged at a constant 77 degrees F in there right now. It helps that the basement at my place is a constant 55 degrees.

Thanks!
S.


#13

The only thing you can really do is wait and check new growth.

They teach us patience more than anything else…


#14

yes once they get feeling better you will notice the leaves won’t be so dark ,nice light green


#15

I have exact details on my grow computer at home, but this is the info I can remember off hand:
dwc cap: 12 gallons, typically keep 5 gallons in at a time
Nutes: Floragro trio, with calimagic added, along with hydroguard to keep the roots healthy
Check the pH in the morning and evening. only adjust if the reservoir is way out of wack.
TDS values: naturally the water from my tap is hovering around 150ppm after having the water stitting for at least 24 hours.

Strain: white widow, purple haze, chocolope, and durban poison. one of each, two hydro buckets, two plants per bucket.

Hydro system

System type: DWC

pH: Between 5.8 and 6.2

What is strength of nutrient mix? EC, or TDS

Indoor

Light system, 1000W cool tube with reflector

Temps; Day:77 degrees, Night: 60-ish

Humidity; 40%, 55%

Ventilation system; Yes, 6" fan, filter, cool tube light

AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier: n/a

Co2; No

As for pictures of the plants, there are some at the top of the post :).


#16

Thank you all for the prompt replies. Hopefully some of the details I’ve added will help.

Cheers,

Strange.


#17

sounds like your on the right track ,i use tds just need a little help , nitrogen


#18

Checked my tds and ph meter. Looks like the tds is working great, but my ph was a little high. This would explain the inability to absorb phosphorus, the ph would have been slightly too high, preventing P absorbtion. Hopefully I’ll see them turn around now.

Thanks for the suggestions all.

Cheers,

Strange.


#19

exactly too many visual options


#20

could you post the water temperature?..looking for 60F-70F, 69F the sweet spot.

what is the tds/ppm/ec of the reservoir water?..somewhere between a ppm of 350-500

and maybe a photo of the roots?