@Brobdab welcome to the forums and thus the community.
You have gotten a fair amount of input here from a couple different sources which is nice to see but I’m going to start from square one with you and go through everything I can see and any questions you have going forward, I assume your looking for help from experienced growers and thus is why you posted the thread in the first place.
Let’s start with your light, what light exactly is it? As it’s not actually 1000w, unfortunately you and most others fell for amazon Chinese sales tactics and they gotcha! So what light exactly is it? This way we can find out how good or not your lighting is.
Seems like you have done a little reading glad to see.
That being said it’s time to transplant your plant into the 7 gallon pot, again 30% perlite and try to go into something rich like fox farms ocean forest.
Ideally you do this before you start plant training, and you transplant once the leafs reach the outer edge of the pot. Get rid of the clay pots done use them ever again lol give them to a lady friend with a flower in them or something. You want fabric pots or air pots going forward. If you need to start in something small a plastic pot with good drainage holes on the bottom or a solo cup with holes poked in the bottom.
As @ArmoredGoat stated give it some time to recover and you notice it growing before conducting more plant training like lst, topping or FIM’ing.
If your in Florida and you can have the plant outside as long as it stays above 55f then that’s good but we need to know your lighting specs before we ca recommend one way or another which is better.
It’s a photo period plant not an autoflower if I’m flowing correctly, could you clarify that?
Ensure your plants going through a nice dry and wet cycle, this helps the roots stretch and grow big which in turn makes the plant grow better.
Learn to water by weight of the pot, if it’s super heavy it’s got wage,
You can use alot of things for plant ties, the key is that it’s stretchy and has give to it. Otherwise it eats into the plant, I bought plant ties was well worth it.
As far as the autoflowers and your question goes
“I read you should not top autos, but would it be okay to top”.
Can you top autos? Yes
Should you top your autos? No
Can you top autos with good results? Yes
Is it best to top autos? No
So I’ll give you a bit of an explanation here but I think it helps to know that I am an auto specific grower, who has alot of free time at work, who also is a research nerd. So I’ve spent well over a thousand hours reading researching plus years of experience growing autos.
This is what I have learned and I practice myself.
Medium has alot to do with how you should grow.
If you choose to grow in soil your plants will grow slower and thus be smaller. Your water system will also play a bit of a roll here, be you in an autopot or not.
The second big variable is how much time are you wanting to spend in the garden with your plants? Are you retired and this is half your day type thing or what’s your story and scedule like?
In soil you can just stick to LST and have good results, you can also just FIM and have good results, or you can do both and still do good. The key is LST in autos is not the same as in photos, you don’t bend the whole plant over instead you pull the branches outward to open it up for future bud sites to get lots of light.
In coco or hydro your plants will grow alot faster and thus you can top but again I don’t recommend it as FIM’ing is a better option, you can even SCOG autos in coco/hydro.
Personally I don’t have the time to LST so I FIM my autos and then that’s it, done.
But can’t see it well enough to determine what’s happening. As mentioned above you may want to grab some plant wire/tie 
. I would say I give them a solo cup almost a quarter full every 3 days. No more nutes since I gave them nitrogen toxicity recently.
