Cheaply lighting a 3x3 tent with DIY light strips

Thanks, appreciate it. 50k it is then

Who carries them besides digikey? 3000k $28, eeeek!

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This is how everything all got started in my twisted brain.


10 in total

those are single row strips lmao

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And that is why they say don’t operate heavy machinery… or do calculations or math

I refer you to the statement above

I see, I see.

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And the government still thinks painkillers are better than weed!! DUMB

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Einstein smoking weed… still great
Einstein on painkillers… E=CM2 hum f🤬 it



All 10 in series would work, right? I have $10 off at Jameco

With that driver you would need to wire in parallel

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I see DigiKey has plenty of the BXEB-L0560Z-35E2000-C-B3 available. I can afford to grab 10-15 of them atm. The driver selection will dictate the final number. Could I get some recommendations?

They are 19.5v with a test rating of 700mA so depending on how many you wanted just calculate 19.5 x num of strips. that’s your CC voltage that you need to be in.
19.5 x .7 x num of strips will be your wattage to look for.
so for 10 strips you’re looking at 136.5w with a cc rating of 195v.
You can overdrive them a bit to maybe 1050mA and get some more juice out of them.

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19.5 x 16 = 312v
Dumb question it will the HLG-320H-C1050A still work? The dada sheet shows max is 311v @Aolelon

im gonna say yes. but honestly im not 100% sure.

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If not, then I’ll have to take one off :joy: I’ll probably have to run them at say, 75-85% power due to tent height to avoid light burn, I’m guessing.

Don’t do that! Drop a strip or go to 2 smaller drivers. First of all, you’re looking at open circuit voltage. That’s the point where driver will shut down and go into protect, as in no light at all. The constant current region on that driver is 152-305 volts dc. That means that the driver will provide full output current if fv is in that range. There are instances where they will stay in constant current mode a volt or 2 higher, but you really can’t plan on it. Per the data sheet, loaded between 305 and the 311 volts will continue to provide power, but at a significantly reduced output current. That’s NFG for what you’re trying to do.

On top of that, the connectors on the strips are only rated for 300v. Some electricians will recommend you don’t go within 80% of rated maximums. I’m not one of those guys for something like this, but would recommend that method for something like your home circuits. However I’m also not the guy that recommend running above maximum, whether it be 1 volt or 10.

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Sorry I didnt look at the datasheet I assumed he was talking about the CC voltage.
But about the connectors. There is nothing in the EB datasheet saying the connectors are only rated for 300v. I know that’s the case on the QB boards though.
"A single terminal connector doesn’t have a max voltage rating, because there’s no reference to measure the voltage against.The most potential that can ever possibly really exist across the twoconnectors is defined by the EB2 board design’sisolating and tracking distances and not theconnectors.

If you turn up the voltage, one of the LEDs in the EB2 strip will fail at an input voltage of 25V (at the absolute max). You don’t have to worry about the max voltage the connectors can take because in that situation you should be more concerned with the distance between the anode and cathode pads of each LED. You’d have to generate like 500V across a single strip to be close to that."

If you were putting 300v into the connector, then you would also be putting 300v into the strip and the strip would fail long before the connector ever did right?
The system is 312v, but that’s split between 16 strips so no 1 connector ever sees that voltage.

Happy Anniversary @dbrn32

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