Can i use peroxide in feeding without killing microbes?

Im trying to figure out if there is a dilution of peroxide i can use that wont kill the benefical bacteria i add to feeding? And i am going to have humidity issues. Will peroxide help to prevent bud rot or wpm if i cant keep humidity down? And what if any product is there that i could use to prevent bud rot or wpm caised by high humidity? I dont have these issues yet just started flower cycle. This is for prevention.

Will hydrogen peroxide kill beneficial bacteria?

Some growers promote the use of hydrogen peroxide as a means of introducing oxygen into the root zone and deterring disease and algae growth. However, hydrogen peroxide will also kill all the beneficial bacteria — which means you won’t get any of the benefits of bacteria.


A dehumidifier of the appropriate size for the area.

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Im going to try one but my neighbour is also a grower and he cant find a humidifier to get humidity lower than 5o% and has tried many. Im on a island in the middle of an island and its raining half the time this time of year. When it not raining its foggy.

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You won’t get under 50% with anything smaller than 30pt. I’ve been fighting 90% out every night for weeks now. My 30pt can keep the lung room under 50%, but puts off excessive heat to do it as well.

I’m having the same problem. My grow room is 12x12 with a 6000 btu a/c and a 56 pint dehumidifier and still have arround 60 to 70% humidity. Ieven have 4 fans running all the time with a 6" fan running to the outsideof building. The dehumidifier put a shit load of heat out so i T’d into my outside vent that runs outside, that seemed to help with the temps. It only takes about four hours to fill the dehumidifier up and shuts down. But i’m using the water to water the plants. WTF else can i do?? @Hellraiser @Budz @Covertgrower @BobbyDigital @Myfriendis410 @MeEasy @MO_Grow417


Not sure what else you can do, not something I’ve ever had to deal with as I have the opposite situation - very low humidity most of the time, see what growers in wetter climates have to say.


My dehumidifier has an auxiliary tube so I can drain into a bucket. When I was in Kalifornia it would fill a Homer every 24 hours.

I’m in a much dryer (and higher!) climate now but still see RH above 50% for most of flower. I’m guessing there aren’t many WPM spores to worry about as I’ve had zero issues.


I live in the desert and don’t know what works best for reducing humidity, I mean I understand it but don’t know any of the products used to help. We’ve been getting ton of rain this year so I’ve been dealing with high numbers but I’m not going to buy a bunch of stuff our rh is generally under 20% here I just increased the wind (added fans) in my tents and took off more leaves


Is there any way that you scan separate off a portion of the room for a “lung room “ to pull air in from. It may be easier to try and dehumidify a smaller room and send that dehumidified air into the grow room. You could even buy a tent and accomplish the same thing. Also maybe covering the soil with something to keep from the soil also adding moisture back into the air. Just brainstorming. Will continue to rattle my feeble mind.
Activated charcoal also takes moisture out. If you had a tent you could filter the air coming in if needed and that might help with moisture as well. You might even be able to make your own intake filter to absorb moisture. And like @Myfriendis410 said attach a hose if you can to drain. It’s good water to save for watering as it should be low or free of particulates and chlorine and chloramine free.


Where is the a/c venting to? An a/c and 65 pt dehumidifier should easily handle a 12/12 unless the ac is venting into the same area negating itself. Also remember any wood in the room will keep the RH for weeks potentially until the dehumidifier pulls all the moisture out of the wood and concrete. That takes time. Woods a wick for moisture, you can see a wet spot in concrete. I assume your water heater is close too. I’d check its drain and exhaust too.

AC is a window unit, no exposed wood in grow room, concrete floor. Guess i’ll just keep fans going and defoliate some more, and live with it!

What’s the longest period you kept the dehumidifier running constant? This is the actual important part. That’s why the best ones have settings beyond on and off with timers, but you said yours runs untill it hits the overflow setting. Does it have a 1-10 scale? If so I’d keep it emptied for a few days, or use the hose function of yours has one, not letting it stop from overflow sensor on setting 4. See if it ever reaches that objective. Which should be high 50’s. At which point it’ll shut itself off and not because it can’t, but because it doesn’t need.

About 4 hours till it automaticly kicks off, it really put out the heat. Iguess i’ll hook up a hose to it and run it outside and see what happens. would really like to save the discharge water, guess i could collect outside but not to enthused about doing that. Like i said the dehumidifier really puts out the heat. @Budz

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So does mine. I actually had to move mine out of my lung room after adding a third tent. Now I’m dehumidifing the whole house. Because with the third tent the combination of the 3 tents and lung room was causing too high of temps to keep the dehumidifier running. Since moving it directly under the central controls and letting them work symbiotically has been phenomenal. Since the ac also removes humidity. And the controls are where my sensors are, so the heat produced by the dehumidifier is controlled automatically.

It’s been running a lot of course. Living room/dining room/kitchen all wood floors. I’m confident it won’t run anymore constant than it did in the lung room after a week or two tho. Once all the wood wicks. Because day time humidity is usually under 40%. It’s those 90% nights that cause me problems. And I’ve had them for a month now (outside).

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I think i’m going to try running a hose outside tomorrow and see what happens.

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