Can extra BLUE lighting be added for vegetative stage?

I’d say go ahead and do it as long as she is going to keep getting sufficient light so she stop stretching. @Bman8890

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Getting back to the topic here - I just sent for the blue lights - and also another full-range unit rated at 1500W.

(plus two bags of 10mm unmounted LED’s)

The company name of the 1500W is DIMGOGO, which seems pretty sketchy to me, but it has good reviews.

I was going to get a MARSHYDRO unit but I noticed it had two switches to go from veg to bloom and what that told me was it was an all in in one switchable light that was a bit too Cadillac for my tastes…

Plus the 1500W dimgogo unit if it lives up to it’s advert is more than double the output for the price. It also has IR and UV LED’s

The extra “Blue Blasters” are only for the veg stage, I don’t need no steenking sweetchezzz…

(Amazon Link to light description)
This is the 1500 watt unit - it says it draws around 268 watts actual which would be 268 divided by 120 volts (USA) = around two or three amperes at 120 VAC

THESE are the 30W blue LED floods I also sent for - just to see what a lot of blue spectrum will do:

The theory I have is that the range from 420 to 480 nm, centered mostly at 450nm is the prime range for the plants when growing leaves and stems (the VEGGY stage), so a high concentration of this spectrum at the early stages ought to make some things happen - a better and stronger young plant maybe, fast and large leaf growth maybe, I don’t know.

But I want to try this to find out…

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@FrikkinFrank I would suggest a COB style full spectrum light. Like this: CrxSunny 1500W COB LED Grow Light Full Specturm Grow Lamp for for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower

This is their new and improved model, using better brigelux/Cree COB leds. Just select your desired size. They are the best “China” light as everyone calls them here in the market(in my own personal opinion). My personal experience is I took them apart and checked out the internals, and they have reallly good drivers, and the bridgelux/Cree COB’s really are of great quality. They are even individualized with zaner protection; meaning if one does go out, the rest won’t.

They are backed with a 3 year warranty, a 30 day money back guarantee, and as well as a parts protection plan they will send you a new COB led or driver if one goes out :+1::+1: I’m going to pick up two of these when the funds are there, and mix them with their original models I bought last year (2) 1200w COBs, and I will have a mixture of full spectrum of white AND “pink” light if you will, and it makes it all the easier to detect any problems :wink:

My personal opinion is that brands of lights are just like car parts, your just buying the name. You only lose a small amount of efficiency, the China drivers are the same as the high end light drivers. I believe mine are 90% minimum. I can double check for you. That’s efficient enough for me. Even if it was a less efficient driver it means your using less amount of electricity but still getting the light you want… Plus your not spending 400+ a light for let’s say an advanced platinum 300w (ONLY 300!) … :joy::v:️:+1: and boy the China’s are bright, you for sure need UV/IR protection glasses, and wear sleeves and pants unless you put on sunscreen :joy::wink:

You’re confused about driver efficiency. A less efficient driver means it takes more power from the wall to generate the same amount of led power. Not the other way around.

You took one of those lights you linked apart? Do you have a pic of driver label? And which cobs does it use? They all look the same to me, so I’m not sure why they would say Cree and Bridgelux. I’ve personally held and installed three different bridgelux cobs, and a bunch of different Cree. The light in link doesn’t appear to use either.

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No it doesn’t take more power from the wall. The wall outlet can only provide what your power is. 110-120volts. The output end of the driver is converted to DC power to power the leds without making them explode becuase 110-120VAC would melt everything. The driver is the junction and it loses its power there it doesn’t take more power, it just loses it in conversion…yes on their company website for those crxsunny’s they use bridgelux and Cree according to their website. I’m wouldn’t lie, but I could of been scammed. But honestly I have no complaints about the lights, they make my eyes bleed… @dbrn32

If you go to buy a driver they are sized by output wattage. We’ll say 200 Watts Constant current for this example. If the output current is 1000ma, then voltage range is usually something like 120-200 vdc. A 95% efficient driver will put out the 200 Watts just like an 80% efficient driver. The difference will be in the amount of current each pulls from the wall, not the voltage. The lower efficiency driver will pull more. At 80%, I’d say about 2.1 amps or about 250 Watts at 120v.

Since most drivers can be run at 120vor 230v, obviously the current would be half at double the voltage. The power is still the same. 250 Watts in to create 200 Watts out at 80%

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I’m not trying to bust your :soccer:️ or anything. I just want the information we pass on to be accurate and correct. The light you linked could be great in your opinion, and horrible in someone else’s. That’s a subjective matter. I don’t have one, so I can only comment on listed specifications. Which I didn’t do, I was hoping you could provide more information having taken one apart is all.

Electrical theory isn’t so subjective. Power commonly expressed as watts per our application, is defined as volts x amps. Electrical efficiency is then defined by power out/power in. Just because system input voltage is constant, it has very little impact on the efficiency of drivers or power supplies. The driver will just pull the current required to satisfy output load. In retrospect, loading the output side can have a large impact in efficiency.

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UPDATE:

I didn’t use the blue lights because it would have been too much. I have the EQ of 2700 watts shining down on the plants with just the 1200 and the new 1500 watt units.

Watts are just plain misleading in reference to these kinds of lights, because the LED’s are so much more efficient.

ALL lights have some losses, heat being the primary. But LED’s generate a lot more light itself per watt of energy consumed that it’s tricky to compare, some other rating ought to be the standard such as lumens at different frequencies like the PER. (or is it PAR?)

This is because LED elements make light a completely different way.The power consumption of an LED array is based on three things added together:

  1. The power actually used by the LED’s
  2. The power used by the power convertor for the LED’s
  3. Power used by any cooling fans

ALL LED’s are DC voltage devices, so they not only have to have the voltage reduced from 120 to whatever they are rated for, but it can’t be A/C volts, it has to be converted or rectified into DC.That’s the job of the power convertor or power supply unit.

Many of them waste some energy while regulating it down.

It’s PAR, and that’s really the only measurement you can directly relate to meaning anything for your plants.

Saying you have the equivalent to anything doesn’t really help either. For there’s no standard for advertising par levels like there is lumens. If a 100 watt incandescent, 23 watt cfl, and 10 watt led all put out the same amount of lumens they are equivalent as appears to human eye. But the par levels from all three are much different. So as far as plants are concerned, they’re not equivalent.

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Did you top it,if not go above the 5th node and top it there. It will make the plant grow two main stems, which will balance your baby, makes the stem thicker and stronger. also you will have more bud sites and the plant will stay bulky , won’t shoot up alot when they flower which means fatter and tighter buds. Watch the pH critical

this plant was topped

this one was not topped

my last grow