Doing a couple of White Widow Autoflower before the photoflower summer kush is grown.
Same General Hydroponic reservoir based deep water. Same mix of expanded clay chips and GH CocoTek +P. Same main light (Quantum Horticulture T5 Badboy) but I am running different lamps. For veg, I am running (4) Eye PowerVeg UVA, UVB, and full sun (fs+uv) and (4) Quantum 6500k HO lamps. For bloom, I will change the Quantum lamps to 2900k and add the two Bridgelux strip lights at 3500k. Will run the UV lamps throughout.
Going to top the two girls ONCE and that is all. Just wanna slow that main stem
@dbrn32 - Good morning to you. I wanted to see your thoughts on the following:
Space - 4x4x7â
Light options-
(12) 50 watt Bridgelux EB strips driven by two 300 watt Meanwells
(6) 100 watt Bridgelux Vero29âs COBâs driven by one 600 watt Meanwell
(4) Quantum Board 288âs driven by one or two Meanwells
Samsung makes strip lights⌠option???
The Veroâs are 90 CRI opposed to the 80 CRI QBâs but the QBâs would crush the Veroâs on u/molsâŚ
There are so many light theories running around, it is hard to determine Science from them. My thought is color is important but without intensity, it is mootâŚ
Well, I like the way youâre thinking lol. Iâm a believer in the 90cri cobs, and you could just run a few more at lower current to bump the efficacy some. Build cost will go up is all. Like 8-9 of the vero 29c at 1050ma would put you right there at pretty good par levels and you can get those in just about any cct imaginable.
Samsung definitely has strips available. To competitive with other options youâre listing youâd want the f-series. Theyâre available in single and double row in 280mm, 560mm, and 1120mm lengths. They also should have a horticulture specific strip available soon. It was announced last fall supposedly to be released first quarter this year. Those will be capable of 3 umol/joule at about 700ma.
If youâre really digging the DIY stuff, check out cutter electronics too. They have some 90cri strip options and multi channel strips and boards.
The vero 29 is available in 3 different voltage configurations. B,C, and D. Youâll want to try and use the b or c if possible, theyâre a little more efficient.
I bought 6 of the 3000k - 90CRI. Looking at heat sinks now⌠Getting two HLG-320H-C1400B drivers to split each bank of COBâs. Shopping around for parts.
I donât think either of those will handle that kind of thermal load without active cooling. I would suggest going with a big splayed pin sink. Last time I ordered them I had to get from China. Hlg has them, but only place I seen them for sale was packaged with QB 96.
Speaking of which, you could probably do something with those too if you wanted.
I am calling Cooliance today. I can get their 5x5x2.5 heat sink for Bridgelux Vero but they are untapped. I would rather not tap these extrusions myself (not a fan of micro tap and die). I know they carry them but can I buy only 6?? We shall seeâŚ
@dbrn32 - crazy thought - The Slate 1 heat sinks that come with the QB kits, they are rated up to 320watts (triple) and are 35âx8â. I could tap that and install (3) COBâs per heat sink?? Is that crazy talk??
Not really crazy thought, but itâs not close to working either.
The two biggest things to consider here are the electrical efficiency and the density of the thermal load, both being in favor of the qbâs which is why they can run passively on that relatively small heatsink.
When sizing a heatsink youâre finding a way to dissipate the waste heat created. The more electrically efficient the led is, the less waste heat it will have. Letâs say for instance a 100 watt qb 288v2 is 60% efficient. That means that at 100 watts 60 watts will go producing light, and 40 watts will be amount of waste heat. So your thermal load there is 40 heat watts and that what you need to get rid of. A vero 29c at 100 watts is probably more like 40-45% efficient. Will go with 45% and give benefit of doubt. That means at 100 watts 45 watts per cob goes to light and 55 watts needs to be removed as waste heat. So that means running 3 boards on that heatsink would create a thermal load of about 120 watts vs 3 cobs a thermal load of about 165 watts. Or, a whole 140mm pin sink worth of difference.
Perhaps the bigger difference is the amount of space the heat has to transfer from. The thermal pad on the back of cob is about 1" x 1", and has to transfer all of that thermal energy to heatsink from that space. As opposed to the leds reflowed onto the board the board itself actually works as a heatsink to them. Then you have the entire board surface (about 6" x 12") to transfer the thermal load.
So basically itâs less heat transferred over a much bigger area. The smaller boards will actually run without any heatsink at all.
