I finished your frame design. There will be a lot more detail then this but this will help you get started. The material is 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/8 angle alum. The cheapest place I have found it is at Menards.
This is how you would wire it.
The boards would actually face down. I just put them like that to give you an idea what it would look like.
Let me know if you need more help.
Nice drawings there.
Wow! looking good. They are making a good come back
Yeah all have new growth bit this is the best one. Huge difference from just 5 days ago.
Do you have everything to put one light together?
No, i had to go back to work. I’ll buy all the stuff for 1 when I get back Thursday or Friday. Is their a specific wire I need to connect the boards? Also I can just buy any 230 volt plug in?
Lets confirm with @dbrn32 but I think I got 14 or 18 gauge solid core wire.
You should be able to buy the plug at any big store Lowes, Menards, or Home Depo.
And don’t forget the Wago connectors If you go that way.
18awg solid core seems to work the best on the output (dc voltage) side of driver. You’ll just want to make sure it’s rated for at least 300 volts. You definitely DON’T want the stuff most of local stores seem to sell. It’s for wiring cars and such and usually only rated for around 50 volts. The stuff you want will be called hook up wire a lot of times, and I’ve bought some that was labeled marine grade as well.
For the input (ac voltage) I’ve used and handful of different things. Type so cord, an extension cord with ends cut off, even just stranded 14awg in flex loom. Just make sure to cover the load of however many drivers are on each set of wires plus about 20%.
As far as the plugs go, that depends on what your buddy installed as receptacles? There are different types, so you’ll obviously need something compatible. If he installed 30a breaker, and 30a receptacle, then you’ll need 30 amp plug.
This is today. All 4 are doing lots better. This is before watering so leaves a little droopy on 1. Also installed a carbon filter and mylar on walls. I was never gonna get around to painting.
Im about to order 2 of these drivers. I know we discussed the hlc-240h-c2100a with the dimmer built in. Is this the right driver still now that we know we are only running 2 boards on each driver? Also, if i buy the A model the screw to dim, would it just be the options of 2100 and 1050? Or cpuld I go somewhere in between
That’s the driver for two 288 boards. If you had two 304 boards you would want the 1050ma output. There are other drive currents that will work, but we set you up with the one that makes most sense. Good balance of output and efficiency. The a at the end has nothing to do with output current, simply says what dimming capabilities the driver has.
Thats the one you want.
Heres some other stuff you might need
I rivet my frame together. I just found it easier to do it that way. Also you might want to get some rubber grommets to run your wires through. I use the wire ties to hold in my drivers and hold down wires.
I get all my supplies at Harbor Freight. Not sure if you have one in your town.
Hope this helps
Oh thank you for that. I was trying to piece it all together on what I needed. Not sure what kind of wago connectors I need thou. This is all foreign to me. Once I have it all, ill probably get back with you to make sure im doing it right.
Right but what im asking is if I buy the one with the dimmer built in, will I be able to dim to like 1500? As opposed to only being able to switch from 2 settings. 2100 and 1050. Reason im asking is because the wording on the driver is weird. Say you can go from 2100 to 1050. Doesn’t say anything about in between.
You will be able to adjust the amperage between 2100ma and 1050ma. Thats just the high and low range.
It’s a potentiometer, not a switch. You turn it with a screwdriver and should be about linear adjustment across the range. All the way up is 2100ma, 1050ma is all the way down. Halfway should be about 1500-1600ma.