Bugs in soil after transplant clones

I’m have started clones of train wreck from ilmg. My mother is in flowwring but when I transplant the clone I notice but that look like nata in soil.how can I get rid of them?

I meant bugs that look like nats


@latewood @Familyman

Cover your soil with something like gnat nix and hang sticky paper.


@Eddiedean Gnats can be brought under control with @dbrn32 suggestions of Gnat Nix and sticky fly tape . It might be hard to do with clones but try not to overwater the soil . They thrive on fungus and reproduce in wet soil . A half inch layer of Gnat Nix on top of the soil tricks them into thinking the soil is dry .


A soil drench with water and peroxide will kill the larve also. I would then inoculate the soil with something to reintroduce beneficial bacteria and such.


A quick fix is to slice up a potato and place the slices on top of the soil they attracted to it once full throw it out and put fresh ones back


Once their eggs hatch they will go to the slices of potatos and not the roots of your plants which they will feed on and kill your plant


Thanks I will try the potatoe slices. Is the any thing else I can do after that to eliminate completely? @garrigan62

Will that hurt my clones young Roots.


Fungus Gnats

Fungus gnats like to feed on roots of the plants and organic matter. Adults
and larvae live in moist, shady areas. The adults lay there eggs on top of
the soil, near the base of the stem and takes about 4 days to hatch. The
larvae will start by eating the root hairs of the plant then working their
way up the plant, Fungus gnats like to eat organic matter so they will be
stealing away nutrients from your plants, so its best to get rid of them
completely. [color=red. Plants growing in rock wool are more prone to getting
a more severe infestation than plants growing in soil. If your plants are
affected during late flowering or close to harvest, please try to use the
safest means of control to be safe to your health.[/color]

[color=red]Prevent and Control

Prevent indoor entry of gnats by making sure there is no open windows open
without screens on. Aug is a bad time for them as they are worst that time
of the year.

Put sticky traps on the soil surface to trap the gnats

Put potato slices on the surface of the soil. The larvae like it and will
be drawn to it… After about 4 to 5 days, remove the potato slices with the
larvae. To get rid of them you can do a lot of things like either use a NO
pest strip, neem oil or putting sand on the surface of the soil will suffocate
the eggs and get rid of them as well. Tobacco juice kills them, and works well
for re-occurrences!

They can be in or on the soil and can fly. In order to get rid of them you
can use neem oil, sand or perlite on the surface again kills them, and no pest
strips catch the ones that fly. A chemical product called Zone works very well
and is very powerful and works well in Hydroponics/Aeroponics!
Other Products which can be used in Hydroponics/Aeroponics and soil are:

Safer Yard & Garden Insecticide

GNATROL( used in Hydroponics/Aeroponics in the water as well as soil),
Safer Sticky Stakes,
TR-11000 Pyrethrum.
Mosquito Dunks

Organic Control

Pest Oil
Neem Oil
Hot Pepper Wax
Doc’s Neem Pest Soap
Sticky traps
Safer’s Insecticidal Soap
Neem Oil
Neem 2

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I have neem oil. Do I do a soil drench with it? Please explain

@garrigan62 can you please explain how I use neem oil in soil

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Sorry i’m late My internet went down and it just now came back on.

Yes I will, But you must understand, What i’m going to post is

" VERY LARGE " So here it is :slight_smile:

Contributed by:garrigan65
Submitted: 06/03/18

Neem oil is a highly effective and 100% natural pesticide, extracted from the seeds
of the Neem tree in India.
Neem oil is non-toxic to animals or people. Neem is systemic.

Neem oil is most effective when used as a preventive, meaning that you spray every
crop regardless of whether
or not you see a pest.

Many growers seem to be put off by its oiliness, finding sprayers clogged and plants
left coated in oil. The
solution is to get the oil broken down and suspended in the water, then we can get it
onto the plants.


1 liter warm water
8ml cold-pressed Neem oil
5ml liquid soap

Note: If your Neem oil appears solid and/or cloudy it is most likely too cold. Run the bottle under warm
water for a few minutes until the Neem oil is easier to work with. Shake it well.

8ml of Neem oil + 1 liter of warm water

you can see that the oil and water are completely separated…

8ml of Neem oil + 5ml of liquid soap in 1 liter of water.

NOTE - you may have to add more or less soap, depending on the strength of your soap.
When you can see soap
bubbles you’ve got it right.

Shake this in your sprayer, it should make a milky-white liquid, with no oil floating
on top. Leave it to
settle for a few seconds. If there are any oil droplets floating on the top, add a
little more soap, drop by
drop, (keep shaking) until the oil is gone. Don’t be surprised if you have to add more
soap than I did. Now you
are ready to spray.

Spray everywhere, especially under the leaves where critters hang around. Get those
plants dripping wet.
Keep shaking while you spray.

IMPORTANT - you must repeat this application every 3 days for at least 2 weeks
(3 weeks if you want to be 110% sure)

This is important because Neem oil doesn’t directly kill bugs (amongst other things
it stops them from reproducing,
feeding and molting their skins). So in effect, it breaks their life cycle.

This means you need to spray for at least the length of one life cycle, which for spider
mites in ideal conditions
(like most grow-rooms) is around 2 weeks, sometimes a little longer.

I use this method for the first 2 weeks of 12/12. It was taught to me by a professional
grower of 20 years
experience. He also uses this recipe as a soil drench (Neem is systemic and therefore
there is no need to spray
if soil drenching)

I have used it as a foliar spray for about a year now and have had no problems with
mites or any other vermin,
large or small. Skeptical friends have also been won over to this system.


If you are facing an infestation emergency, you can add Pyrethrum to the above mix.
I challenge any nuclear-proof
insect in the world to survive the twin pain of Neem and Pyrethrum.

Notes on Ingredients:

Cold-pressed Neem oil has much higher levels of active ingredients and is well worth
the money. A good place to
find this stuff is from a Pharmacy that stocks herbal remedies. (It is used as a
treatment for head lice.)

If your Neem oil appears solid and/or cloudy it is most likely too cold. Run the
bottle under warm water for
a few minutes until the Neem oil is easier to work with. Shake it well.

Liquid Soap - plain unperformed, boring liquid soap. Personally I don’t let that stuff
anywhere near my plants,
but many do, and if you’re one of them you may find you need less than if using liquid
soap. Experiment a little
when you shake the mixture. Plain liquid soap is much more gentle than washing-up

Pyrethrum is extracted from Chrysanthemum flowers. It is a highly effective and 100%
natural insecticide. It is
also one of the safest, bearing little threat to mammals. Pyrethrum degrades quickly
once sprayed.

Note: Liquid soap is similar to safer’s soap (a fat based liquid soap mixture).
Safers suffocates and
dessicates (dries out) insects. Works good, but can also clog leaf stomata, so a
follow-up spray of water is required.

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Don’t ever use neem in high concentrations. Oil + sun burns plants.
It’s best if you start with warm/hot water and mix in your neem with
a couple small drops of dish soap (the kind for hand washing, not the
stuff that goes in the machine). The warm water and soap help the water
mix evenly with the oil and makes it more effective. Use the lower
amount of neem they say to use but apply often. I only use 2 table
spoons per gallon and spray regularly up until about the 2nd or 3rd
week of flowering. Maybe every 3 days is good for the first couple weeks,
then once a week after the infestation is taken care of. I usually spray
right as the sun is setting so I don’t burn the leaves but it still has time
to dry before night time. Make sure you get the underside of the leaves
totally drenched because that is where more bugs hide.
Good luck with the plants.


Just an FYI: I make my own sticky traps for fungus gnats in my house plants with yellow poster board cut in little squares, glued to a stick then I smear petroleum jelly on the yellow squares. Idk why fungus gnats are attracted to the yellow but they seem to be and they get stuck to the jelly. It won’t get rid of in infestation but it works great to monitor if your treatment works. Good luck :v:

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