Bug or deficiency


#1

What do you think 90 days veg roughly only on older sun leaves but not the oldest either scrog plant 4x4 healthy stem is 3 and 1/2" diameter problem seems area specific in room did npk soil sample adequate p and k ,n deficiency changed nutes a little more n less p and k 1300 ppm going in 3300 ppm coming out media didn’t dry quick enough to get a water in so skipped feeding this week and just water runoff when I get some has always been around 5 with nute solution going in around 7 soil samples have been in range but are going up so only pH food not on watering days keeping knats down has been difficult 20g pot added diatomous earth sorry for spelling knocked the down till I watered now there back scape top soil and usually get about 5 fly up what you think


#2

Sorry mispoke that measurement is circumference here’s another leaf this one was a little further away than rest and it just fell off with tug


#3

Hey fessie, it looks like you may be having a problem with your Ph which in turn gives those burn’t looking area. To be sure, wait until you have heard from Mac G or Latewood to be sure! Best of luck, Mike


#4

@Fessie,

I agree completely with @mcicchino your P H is way out of wack.
This is some what large. But I feel that you must have as much information as posable to fix your problem asap !
Copy and paste into your files for future reference.

Here is a pic of of the deficiency. That I believe it is. " Phosphorus deficiency "

Phosphorus does a lot of things for the plant. One of the most important parts of Phosphorus is: It aids in root growth and influences the vigor of the plant and is
one of the most important elements in flowering as well helps to germinate seedlings.
Phosphorus is an essential plant nutrient, and since it is needed in large amounts, it is classified as a macronutrient. Phosphorus is a MAJOR important nutrient in the plants reproductive stages. Without this element the plants will have a lot of problems blooming without proper levels of Phosphorus.

When your plants are deficient in phosphorus, this can overall reduce the size of your plants. Not enough causes slow growth and causes the plant to become weak, to little amount of Phosphorus causes slow growths in leaves that may or may not drop off. The edges all around the leaves or half of the leaves can be brownish and work its way inwards a bit causing the part of the leaves to curl up in the air a bit. Fan leaves will show dark greenish/purplish and yellowish tones along with a dullish blue color to them. Sometimes the stems can be red, along with red petioles that can happen when having a Phosphorus deficiency. This isn’t a sure sure sign of you having one though, but can be a sign. Some strains just show the red petioles and stems from its genes.
So pretty much the overall dark green color with a purple, red, or blue tint to the fan leaves is a good sign of a Phosphorus deficiency. Having Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can make phosphorous absorption very troublesome for plants.
Many people get a Phosphorus deficiency confused with a fungus problem because the ends of the leaves look like a fungus problem, But the damage occurs at the end of the leaves. side of the leaves and has a glass like feeling to it as if it had a ph problem. Parts affected by a phosphorus deficiency are: Older Leaves, Whole plant, Petioles.

Too much Phosphorus levels affect plant growth by suppressing the uptake of: Iron, potassium and Zinc, potentially causing deficiency symptoms of these nutrients to occur def in plants. A Zinc deficiency is most common under excessive phosphorus conditions,
As well as causing other nutrients to have absorption troubles like zinc and copper. Phosphorus fluctuates when concentrated and combined with calcium

Problems with Phosphorus being locked out by PH troubles
Cold wet soils, acid or very alkaline soils, compacted soil.

Soil

Phosphorus gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 4.0-5.5
Phosphorus is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.0-7.5 (wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Phosphorus deficiency.

Solution to fixing a Phosphorus deficiency
Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn’t be tolerated. Any chemical or organic fertilizers that have Phosphorus in them will fix a Phosphorus deficiency. If you have a phosphorus deficiency you should use any N-P-K ratio that is over 5.Again Peters all purpose 20-20-20 is a good mix. Miracle grow Tomato plant food, Miracle grow All purpose plant food (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients, or it will cause nutrient burn!) Other forms of phosphorus supplements are: Bone meal, which is gradual absorption, I suggest making it into a tea for faster use, where bone/blood meal is slow acting, but when made into a tea it works quicker! Fruit eating bat guano, which is fast absorption, Worm castings, which is gradual absorption, Fish meal, which is medium absorption, Soft Rock Phosphate, which is medium absorption, Jamaican or Indonesian Guano, which is fast absorption. Crabshell, which is slow absorption. Tiger Bloom , which is fast absorption.

Here is a list of things to help fix a Phosphrus Deficiency.

Chemical

Advanced nutrients Bloom (0-5-4)
Vita Bloom (0-7-5)
BC Bloom (1.1-4.4-7)
GH Flora Bloom (0-5-4)
GH Maxi Bloom (5-15-14)
GH Floranova Bloom (4-8-7)
Dyna-Gro Bloom (3-12-6)
Fox Farm Tiger Bloom (2-8-4)
Awsome Blossums

Organic

Dr. Hornby’s Iguana Juice Bloom (4-3-6)
Advanced Nutrients Mother Earth Bloom (.5-1.5-2)
Fox Farm Big Bloom (.01-.3-.7)
Earth Juice Bloom (0-3-1)
Pure Blend Bloom (2.5-2-5)
Pure Blend Pro Bloom (2.5-2-5)
Buddswell (0-7-0)
Sea Island Jamaican Bat Guano (1-10-0)
Indonesian Bat Guano (0-13-0)
Rainbow Mix Bloom (1-9-2)
Earth Juice Bloom (0-3-1)
BIO BLOOM (2-6-3.5)
AGE OLD BLOOM (5-10-5)
ALASKA MORBLOOM (0-10-10)
METANATURALS ORGANIC BLOOM (1-5-5)

Any of these will cure your phosphorus deficiency. Affected leaves will not show recovery but new growth will appear normal.

Now if you added to much chemical ferts and or organics,( which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) You need to Flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients.

Note: Blood Meal, Dried Blood, Guanos, Kelp Meal, Cotton Seed Meal, Peat Moss,
Sulfur and fish meal are all acidic and can bring your ph down, so if you add these please monitor your ph when using those.

Note: Bone Meal, Rock Phosphate, Wood Ashes pretty much all ashes, Shellfish Compost and Crab Meal are all alkaline and can make your ph go up, so if you add any of these please monitor your ph.

I hope this will help you let me know if I can be of any more help

B Safe
Will


#5

I don’t think it’s phosphorus unless my soil test was wrong I stopped phing my water but not my nutes because my soil has finally started getting into range use a combo of Budda grow and earth juice usually I use 40-20-60 plus 15 ml/g molasses soil test showed nitrogen deficiency so went with straight Budda to 60 n , numbers off bottle x ml plus pH up to roughly 6.8 use drops so I don’t know exactly plant really responded leaves got much thicker but did not dry out fast enough so straight water a week later no pH up because soil is coming up white stuff on leaves is cornstarch/cinnamon foliar spray from 2 wks ago her are some more leafs these pulled easy also I think maybe micro lockout like you say always phed high cause runoff has always been real low like 5 soil samples have always been good 6-6.5 roughly but are creeping up runoff is still low this is why I stopped phing on water days I use bottled water think I’m gonna hit it with micro foliar spray and see what happens will damaged leaves change new growth looks good


#6

Looking back on my notes I misspoke a little but narrowed it down 5/1 sprayed cinnamon/cornstarch 5/2 Budda grow 80-10-60 1300 ppm Budda grow is 2-.25-1.5x40 ml/g pH 6.2+/- runoff 3200 ppm rinsed with foliar spray 10ml/g earth juice microblast plant really responded new growth was extensive along with new fans growing much fatter I also added diatemeous earth on 5/2 along with 1 power veg UV t5 and another fan 5/3 sprayed twice just ro water 5/9 4 1/2g ro water no runoff also day problem started showing up this also washed down de but no knats 5/11 scraped soil with hand and had some knats today scraped soil knat population down but not gone broke chunks of de up roots thriving directly beneath soil this has not been the case usually 1to2inches down this must be the de working my biggest mistake was size of pot and amount of perlite does not dry out this won’t happen again as for deficiency looking over notes I believe it has to do with minerals as I accidentally removed it will be feeding Budda grow same strength phed to 6.3+/- with 10ml/g microblast then spraying with 10m/g microblast before dark do I have to keep adding de every time I water was thinking flour sifted for application it’s a 20g lot of surface area will see tomorrow fingers crossed big heathly plant though she has taught me a lot lol