Nitrogen burn(lower leaves) or light burn(upper leaves). Could come from overwatering and deoxygenation at the roots causing anerobic bacteria to flourish. if it’s just one or two leaves I wouldn’t worry too much.
Ok I moved the lights. And the brown is on the top leaves. I’m using the oiptic 54w light I ph to. These are the nutrition I’m using
Have you followed the flushing schedule the ff trio requires? I had similar problems with my first grow using the ff trio because I didn’t flush properly.
No I didn’t do any flushing at all. But when I flush do I ph the sink water
Yes, pH the water.
What’s your runoff pH?
I never tested it
Testing your runoff can give vital insights as to the status of your soil. But, since you don’t know where your soil is currently, pH the water @ 6.5 for your flush.
Next time you water, collect a bit of runoff and test the pH, and the ppm/tds too if you have a meter.
You can also do a slurry test. A 1/2 teaspoon of soil from around the root area placed into ounce or two of distilled water. Stir it up well, let sit for 15 min, then test the pH.
Ok I will do that. But I do feed at 6.5 and I feed it to them from the bottom of the pot
Water at the top of the pot, ph at 6.5. Give it water until you see run off from the bottom of the pot. Test run off for ph and ppm. That will give you an idea of where your soil is at.
Ok I will do. But it might be to late because I flushed a little while ago
No biggy. Now when you feed test the ppm going in and ppm of run off. That will tell you how much your plant is eating and when to hold off on feeding. Some people pump there plants with 2000 ppm. That’s much higher than I would suggest. No higher than 1000 is a good place to aim for.
All I have is a ph meter
You might want to invest in a tds/ppm meter in the future. For now follow the suggested feeding and flush schedule. Also adding some cal/mag will help. I’ve read others recommend cal/mag while using the ff trio.
I stopped using the trio after my first grow and started to make super soil. It takes some work to make but I like the fact all I have to do is water throughout the grow. No deficiencies to deal with and I fine the bud to be more potent.
What’s your recipe
This is the recipe I used last grow and with my current grow.
1/4 Recipe
2 large bags of a high-quality organic potting soil with coco fiber and mycorrhizae (i.e., your base soil)
6.25 to 12.5 lbs of organic worm castings
1.25lbs or 20 ounces steamed bone meal
1.25lbs or 20 ounces bloom bat guano
1.25lbs or 20 ounces blood meal
3/4 lbs rock phosphate
3/16 cup or 3 tablespoons Epsom Salts
1/8 cup or 2 tablespoons sweet lime (dolomite)
1/8 cup or 2 tablespoons azomite (trace elements)
1.5 teaspoons powdered humic acid
I use a basic organic soil mix which works well. Mix all ingredients well and add a little water to the soil to make it moist. If your arms aren’t tired you didn’t mix well enough. Place in a container, a black trash can is what I use, let it bake in the sun for a month or longer. In the winter I cook the soil next to my wood stove. I fill my container 1/2 full of super soil and top off with an organic soil. I reuse my old soil to top off.
There is an updated recipe out which I plan on trying next grow.
Nice what is that you smoking on l got wwa. Can you see the brown on the second picture on the bottom
Purple kush and Gold Leaf.
You’ll be happy with white widow. I find it makes me all sorts of confused, happy and energized at the same time.
I guess I didn’t realize you were growing autos. They are more sensitive to nutrients. Easy does it. The feminized seeds are more resilient and will bounce back where as autos once you do something wrong they don’t bounce back as well and will likely produce less. The browning of the leave will probably continue until harvest.
Autos can be tricky bitches. I’m still figuring them out for indoor. Outdoor ww autos grow great. They are susceptible to bud rot though.
This is my second time growing and my second time growing white widow auto auto. You have some nice choices to.