Blueberry grew and then died


#1

A question from a fellow grower;

I could use a little help I purchased 3 blueberry seeds from you and I am have trouble with the grow. I planted 2 of them they grew straight up 3" tall then the tops fell off an died. I have seed left but afraid to start it till I know what’s wrong. For my seedlings I use a 7800k plant light an keep it close to plant without burning it. The bubblegum I got from you I used same setup then switch to cfl after 2 weeks an it is doing amazing but the blueberry the one I really need for my medical treatment I can’t get it to grow. Any help would be great thank you.


#2

It is really hard to say without knowing a lot more. What might have been different between the plant that is doing well and the plants that did not?

The first thoughts that come to mind with the general description you have given, is that maybe the soil or growing medium was too wet or stayed too wet, or possibly those seedlings got too strong of nutrients, either already in the soil/growing medium, or maybe fed to them.

I would normally lean towards too wet of soil/medium, as this is harder to control from plant to plant or time to time. Also the temperature and relative humidity in the air could very well be different at the different attempts of growing and could contribute to the soil drying out less quickly or more quickly.

The soil/medium staying too wet or being overly wet could have contributed to numerous different things that could potentially cause the leaves to fall off, like the potential nutrient lockout that over-watering can contribute to as well as dying/drowning roots in general that will not be able to properly support the new growth above, as well as potentialy contributing to the pathogens that can cause diseases like damping off, which is also similar to your description.

Hope this helps and happy growing,

MacG


#3

Started in peat pot only water every 2 days I don’t do nuts for 2 to 3 weeks. Wish I could upload picture never seen this before all the leaves were still nice an green about an 1/8 below the the leaves the top broke off of stem.


#4

Water every 2 days might still be too often in some circumstances, especially with a small undeveloped plant. The best way to water, almost always, is to water the medium to saturation and let the soil or peat pot nearly completely dry out before watering again. Cannabis roots are not that different than cactus roots and can drown or get water logged easily. They need lots of air to have access to the roots, this is why the saturation to nearly totally dry cycle is so beneficial to the cannabis’ roots.

The pictures are able to uploaded again.

I’m sorry, I did not understand the rest of your reply.

~MacG


#5

I think it may have got top heavy and snapped it makes me nervous to start my last seed don’t want it to happen again. An thanks for all the input I water my bigger plants when they start to look sad but I will get better watering habits on seedlings. This is my first time growing medical.


#6

Top heavy? How so? It doesn’t look tall and lanky or stretched to cause such a thing, it doesn’t look top heavy at all.

If something bumped it and it did actually snap, well it snapped, this would obviously have nothing to do with the peat, fertilizer/nutrients or over-watering.

However it if wasn’t physically snapped by something, and I can’t see the bend clear enough to tell, but it still is matching descriptions of damping off, which could very well be from over-watering.

here is a link to Robert’s blog on damping off:

Happy Growing,

MacG


#7

You all over looked one thing, he stated…
For my seedlings I use a 7800k plant light an keep it close to plant without burning it. The bubblegum I got from you I used same setup then switch to cfl

You see he says he keeped the light at first close to the plant witch at 7800k
Was obviously to much cause then he or she states "Switch " to cfl after 2 weeks an it is doing amazing.
So in short he can start his or her blueberry and just use the cfl like on the bubblegum. And cut back on the watering should help. Just my opinion.
But MacGyver is the specialist here.

B Safe
Will


#8

Well, I was also alarmed at the light used, seems too powerful then too close, where that is more than the standard 6400k 48" t5 lights, and one of those can veg nicely developed smaller plants for a good long time up close for them(six or less inches away due to heat or photo damage), but kept a decent distance away(12 inches or more away for seedlings) for fresh seedlings recently sprouted, being the key here, they produce alot of light but most important is t5’s are hot as heck, a very big problem, I mean, get a hot t5 or other bulb too close,…to hot, I mean ask me how I know. I believe a cheap set of cfl bulbs, soft white—warm white, or just one of them could be good for like a months worth of starting light, kept a good distance away,…but I aint the expert, other than I have the experience of killing nine seeds before I got my s…t…errrrr. I mean stuff, together this year, where I over cooled with fan in winter, planted upside down, or drowned the peat plug, and one time I put a t5 48" single bulb starting lamp right up to a seedling in a cold room thinking it would stay warm, …well I damged the seedling, bad, it somehow recovered and is producing humongous buds seven months later.

I’m not familar with a 7800k,lamp…what is that? some sort of flourescent or hid?


#9

Hey bulbs. That’s exactly what I use t5 or the t17 soft for my seedlings and clones. And hey don’t feel bad, I was trimming my main-lining plants and sniped that plant right in f’n half. So don’t feel so bad. There was no fix for that…lol
I’m really not sure what you were using only you know that.
Then I’ll veg them after they get 5 or 6 true sets of leaves using a 300 watt florescent equivalent 60 watts used light from Home Depot.
If you go and look at my journal on clones that’s what I begged thoughts with and they are all about 24 inches high going into flower.

B Safe
Will


#10

Quick question I think my plant went hermie on me does this look lick sacs to you. Thanks


#11

Yes those are male “sacs”.

~MacG


#12

Yup I second that…sorry

Will


#13

Sorry to bug you again MacG I’m new to growing medical I thing the spots on my bubblegum might be low calcium I use dyna grow bloom but how can I get just more calcium in my plant I just lost one don’t want to lose this one too. Dude you have been great with all your help glad I bought my seeds from this Web site.thanks


#14

I could use a lot more info.

Why do you think calcium, as far as I understand it dyna grow has plenty.

I wold guess it might be a pH problem causing a calcium deficiency and if you fix the pH, the calcium that is already present will be able to be absorbed by the plant, instead of being a pH nutrient lock out.

~MacG


#15


#16

ILGM Support Ticket:

What is the strain and type(unknown bag seed, strain name, regular seeds, feminized seeds, auto-flower, etc)?

Indoor or Outdoor? If outdoor, planted in ground or in a container?

Size of space (max height and area, length/width)?

Soil or Hydro? Type of Medium used? System type?

pH? Of the soil or medium (root zone/reservoir/run-off) and of the water and/or nutrient mix that is fed to the plant?

Type and strength of nutrients used? NPK? EC/TDS/PPM levels? Of what you feed it as well as what is in the water by itself and in the soil/medium (run-off), or reservoir.

Temperature? Day vs. night temp or highest and lowest temps? Root zone temps?

Humidity %? Day vs. night

Light system/watts/lumens/FLUX/PAR?

Ventilation system? Size? CFM? CO2? AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier?

Number “weeks/days” from into Season, Vegetative Growth or Bloom/flowering?

Add anything else you feel would help us give you a most informed answer. Feel free to elaborate, but try to be brief and to the point. Short and to the point questions and/or facts will help us help you :smile:


#17

I looked online at all types of leave problems and yellow spots was low calcium problem like I said I’m new to this. I use water that has a pH of 7 what else is the fastest way to fix pH problem


#18

The minerals in the water might be contributing to the problem. What is the EC or TDS of your water? One of the questions in the support ticket I listed for you.

The pH in the soil might be quite different from the water or nutrient mix you give it.

~MacG


#19

Bubblegum indoor feminized 6wk veg just started flower
Organic soil dyna bloom npk 3-12-6. Water when dry Grow tent 4x5x2. 3in exhaust fan. Temps 81/70 hum.68/46. 450w CFL 2700k. Don’t know how to check pH of soil.pots are watered from bottom up.use crystal gyser bottle water.


#20

The second link tells you how to check the pH in the soil. Also you can check the pH in the water that comes out the bottom after watering, the runoff.

~MacG