Black strap molasses during flower. Your thoughts on it?

i have recently read a few things about people adding unsulfered molasses to the plants water during flowering. I trust you guys on here that i have followed and would like your thoughts and hopefully experience using this method??

Also i read this. What are your thoughts on this that someone posted// found to increase quality and yield.
Here we go when your girls are in the flowering stage and they are showing 30% brown pistils dicontinue ALL nutes… turn off ALL your lights for the next two weeks… change to H2O and molasses only this will do several things for your ladies… It will flush the nutes… help in sweeting your final product and INCREASE your quality/yield big time. You will notice the difference trust me !! BUds are noticably bigger stickyier(is that a word?) and SWEETER… …
@MacGyverStoner @Majiktoker @ktreez420 @garrigan62 @Hammer @hillcrest21678 @kabongster


Look at that knowledge tree i summoned lol Man im going to picture all of youl wearing lab coats and wearing those old British clergy man gray wigs when i read your


If MacG gives advice, I take the advice…and garrigan62, same advice!

“help in sweeting your final product and INCREASE your quality/yield big time. You will notice the difference trust me !! BUds are noticably bigger stickyier(is that a word?) and SWEETER… …”

Make buds sweeter no it doesn’t really buds sweeter and as for mollasses just my opinion I wouldn’t reccomend it but that’s my opinion

Molasses, a highly viscous by-product of sugar refinement, is a great supplement for improving your garden. Molasses is rich in both micro- and macro- nutrients, is a great source of carbohydrates for soil microbes, and subsequently boosts the structure and moisture retention of the medium, and encourages growth of beneficial organisms. Molasses also aids in the reduction of salt build up, which is a common cause of nutritional problems, and is a useful insect repellent. While microbes thrive on the sugars in molasses, ingesting molasses for an insect is imminent death (Excluding Sugar Ants and Bees).

Not all molasses is the same, however. Some are made to a lesser quality, and may contain preservatives and other chemical additives that are unwanted in the garden. There are two types of molasses: Sulphured and Unsulphured. While both of types do contain sulphur, the major distinction is that sulphured molasses contains sulphur dioxide, which acts as a preservative and anti-microbial substance. This means that sulphured molasses will actually kill the microbes you are trying to feed. So make sure that you only use unsulphured, organic molasses. There are three grades of molasses, from lighter to darker: mild (a.k.a Barbados), dark, and blackstrap. Blackstrap molasses is preferred for its higher mineral and vitamin content. Blackstrap is high in calcium, magnesium, iron, potassium, and micronutrients.

There are multiple ways to incorporate molasses into your garden. It is often used as part of a regular feeding schedule, in foliar sprays, composts and compost teas, and during soil preparation. Dosage is determined by personal experience: Each garden and plant is different, some may prefer a larger or smaller dosage depending on their environment, health, size, and age/stage. To be safe, using a starting point of 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of molasses per gallon (3.8 liter) of water for feedings is a good rule of thumb. It is recommended to increase molasses dosage as the flower stage progresses, as the plant will require more potassium. Using small dosages will help prevent any unnecessary risks such as stress or nutrient burn, and allow you to correctly determine a favorable future dosage. For use as an insecticidal foliar spray, 1 teaspoon (5ml) per gallon is recommended.*Mix molasses in lukewarm water before adding to reservoir, bucket, or spray bottle to allow it to fully dissolve.

There’s also Dry molasses, which isn’t actually dried molasses – It’s a grain residue carrier that has been drenched in liquid molasses. Dry molasses contains more sugar than liquid molasses, but can’t be mixed into water. It’s recommended to apply 1 lbs. of dried molasses per 50 sq. ft.

The benefits of molasses will be most noticed during the flowering period. Molasses can also be added/combined with other organic liquid fertilizers and sprays, such as compost teas, kelp, alfalfa, and milk. It is also safe to use molasses at the same time as nutrient feeds, however it may subsequently cause fluctuation in soil pH, so it is important to remember to check run-off pH. Using molasses on just-water days or during a flush is also beneficial.

For the outdoor grower, it’s important to note that molasses is commonly used by hunters to attract game, so be aware of your local wildlife, or they may end up eating your crop!

Here is some info hope this helps

IE; Original post from Oaksterdam Uni.

Copied/pasted/posted by Majiktoker


As noted in my previous replies – linked above, and the text posted from oaksterdam uni by @Majiktoker, and also here is a selected relevant quote from the above links to my comments before:

And so I’d have to say, it might help the buds continue to swell because of the potassium, but if it is added to anything other than a healthy microbial filled soil like medium, it isn’t very useful, except maybe as a foliar spray, as mentioned by oaksterdam uni.



Wow. That was informative as all git out …LOL …Good read … some thing id not read about this before .was that it comes in to types .and the Diff between the 2 … Good Info … Majiktoker & Mac G … … Hammer


Thanks for clarifying @MacGyverStoner


I myself don’t use it last time I had ants and bugs from everywhere. So I wouldn’t adviise using it just from my own personal experience.



What about shutting off the lights for 2 weeks that’s crazy ?


I thought the same thing.
2 weeks with no light. Sounds like a way to kill them.

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Good points but at that stage you are preparing them for chopping (death).

I have read both sides for and against and both have valid points. Until you try it for yourself it is all you have. I would like to try it one of these grows but bugs got me thinking twice.

I have heard 2 or 3 days at reduced par rating like from 1200 to 500 to trick plant into thinking winter is coming and force out more trichomes. I have no personal experience with it but I am going to try it with this tent grow I have going as well as stem splitting. Got four plants going to try different things on each to test em out. See the differences in each technique.


I’m going to try this

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