Beginner growing a Fire OG

So I’m about 5 weeks into growing my first plant. I purchased the femeninzed FireOG from this site. Everything I’ve read about the FIre OG plant says it should be long and lanky but what I’ve got growing is really bushy. I’ll try to post a few pictures to show what the plant looks like now.

Just looking for advice. Is this what a Fire OG should look like at ~ 5 weeks? I’m planning on installing the screen for a SCROG implementation but if it doesn’t get much more length to it I"m not sure I’ll be able to do much separation of the limbs… I did FIM this plant about a week ago.


Something is not right. What kind of soil, lighting and nutes are you feeding her?

Fill this out and I will send for help. Just answer what you know to help them help you. @garrigan62 @Countryboyjvd1971 @Hogmaster @PurpNGold74

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System type?

PH of runoff or solution in reservoir?

What is strength of nutrient mix?


Light system, size?



Ventilation system;

AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier,


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I’m feeding it the Bergman’s All Fertilizer and am now on the Growth Package. I also purchased the 5 gallon kit from Which has the coconut husk with the perlite and what they call the “Super Soil” that you mix.

  • The Strain is the FireOG.
  • I’m growing it in a 32"x32" Tent where the Temperature is around 78F and the Humidity around 40%. which came with the 600W Full Spectrum LED
  • I don’t have a PH tester yet (on order)
  • I am following the directions of the nutrient pack I received from Bergman’s.
  • I have a fan/filter which constantly pulls air into the tent. The filter is on the inside and the fan is on the outside. Again the fan is configured to pull air out of tent by way of the filter. I have the vent holes in the tent open so the “fresh” air comes in. I haven’t measure the CO2 but from what I’ve heard the CO2, in this situation, should be more than sufficient.

Strain - FireOG

Soil - Soil which was provided in the apotforpot 5 gallon kit. (coconut husk mixed with perlite and the super soil which comes with the kit.

System type? Not sure what this means…

PH of runoff or solution in reservoir? I don’t currently have a PH meter. It is on order and should arrive Oct 2nd.

What is strength of nutrient mix? Followed the Nutrient mix on the Berman’s All Fertilizer Set

Indoor - Yes using this kit

Light system, size? - 600W Full Spectrum LED

Temps? 78F-ish

Humidity? 40% - 50%

Ventilation system; variable fan with filter which came in the kit linked above.

AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier, NONE

Co2; No CO2 Readings taken but from what I’ve read, the constant air change which the fan provides should be sufficient to replace the oxygen created by the plan with fresh CO2.

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You need that ph meter if everyone had one it would help first thing I recommend buying



here ya go my friend I even put some pic’s up so that you can see why and how they look just like your’s


Nitrogen Toxicity
: Dark green leaves, shiny leaves, clawing, weak stems, and overall slow growth. Marijuana leaves that are nitrogen toxic often get “The Claw” or talon-like leaves that are bent at the ends. They also do an odd curving (or cupping) that is often mistaken for overwatering, but is unique to nitrogen toxicity. Leaves will turn into claws often start turning yellow and dying if the nitrogen toxicity is not treated, much like a nitrogen deficiency only the leaves will continue to get more and more clawed. Leaves eventually turn yellow or brown and fall off. You can tell if yellowing is caused by too much nitrogen because the rest of the plant will be dark green, and the yellowing leaves will turn into claws first.
The majority of times that growers encounter problems with nitrogen, it’s from giving too much of it to their plants.
Many new growers accidentally give their plants give too much Nitrogen, especially in the flowering stage. This results in dark, shiny, clawing leaves.

Your plant needs a lot of nitrogen in the vegetative stage, and it’s generally hard to give too much as long as you’re not going completely overboard with nutrients. Nitrogen is a big part of what makes leaves green, and is incredibly important to the process of photosynthesis (making energy from light).
But cannabis plants need relatively low levels of Nitrogen in the second half of the flowering/budding stage. While your plants still need N (nitrogen) during flowering, too much N at this stage will prevent your plants from forming buds properly, resulting in lower yields, less potency and possibly inferior buds.
This is why it’s important to avoid any type of “time-release” nutrients or soil (for example, standard Miracle-Gro soil) as they will keep giving your plant a lot of N even after its started flowering.
When it comes to nitrogen, this is what your plant needs:
Vegetative Stage – higher levels of Nitrogen (pretty much any plant food will do)
Most complete plant foods that you get at a gardening store contain high levels of nitrogen (N). These nutrient systems tend to work well in the vegetative stage.
Some examples of cannabis-friendly one-part Vegetative nutrient systems…
⦁ Pretty much any complete plant food
Flowering Stage – lower levels of Nitrogen (use “Bloom” or Cactus nutrients)
It’s extra important to find a nutrient system with lower levels of nitrogen for the last part of your plant’s life. Many “Bloom” or “Flowering” style base nutrients are just the ticket.

⦁ If you can’t order online and can’t find a good one-part base Bloom formula locally, you do have other choices. Though not an ideal choice, most Cactus plant foods will contain good nutrient ratios for growing cannabis during the budding stage. So in a pinch, you can use the cactus nutrients that can be found at most gardening stores.
Different strains react differently to nitrogen toxicity. Some plants get dark green leaves with no clawing. Some strains will get leaves that do the weird 90 degree bend at the tips, while other strains or individual plants start curling like claws and then turn yellow / brown and fall off like a deficiency. Yet these are all signs of too much nitrogen.
Signs of Nitrogen Toxicity
⦁ Leaf tips may turn down, without signs of overwatering.
⦁ You may notice yellowing on the affected leaves or other signs of nutrient deficiencies as time goes on
⦁ Nitrogen toxicity is often but not always accompanied by nutrient burn
⦁ The Claw often seems random, affecting leaves here and there
⦁ Heat and pH problems will make the clawing worse, as they stress out the plant and lower her defenses, and cause her to drink more water (and uptake more N)
As time goes on, the claw leaves will eventually start turning yellow, getting spots, and
This cannabis seedling is dark because it was underwatered in a “hot” soil mix (too much Nitrogen), but after watering the plant as normal for a week or two, the plant started growing vigorously

Solution: Reduce the Nitrogen your plant is getting!
Reduce the amount of nitrogen that is being fed to the plants. If you are feeding extra nutrients, cut down that amount. If you are in the flowering / budding stage, make sure you’re using a formula that’s specifically meant for flowering, or else it could have too much nitrogen.
If you are not feeding extra nutrients, you may have “hot” soil that has been giving your plants extra nutrients. In that case, flush your plants with filtered, pH’ed water to help clear out the extra nitrogen.
Effected leaves likely won’t recover, but you should see the problem halt with no new leaves being affected.
Wait! I’m not sure if it’s Nitrogen toxicity!
When I first got started growing, everyone kept telling me that this particular kind of leaf clawing was caused by under or overwatering my plants, pH problems, or heat problems.
Yet in my case, I knew that it wasn’t over or under watering (I was growing in hydro, where roots grow directly in water and air stones are constantly adding oxygen). I knew it wasn’t pH (my reservoir water had the right pH) and I knew it wasn’t heat since the grow area was slightly cooler than room temperature.
So then what was really causing my claw leaves?
It’s understandable that other growers were mistaken. It is true that many stresses will make any other problem worse.
Plus overwatering can cause a similar kind of leaf clawing (learn more below). And if you do have nitrogen toxicity, than heat or pH problems will make the problem much worse.
Now, you may or may not know that marijuana (or any plant) needs an element known as “Nitrogen” to grow.
In fact, nitrogen is one of the 3 nutrients that are included in almost every kind of plant food.
When looking at plant nutrients, you’ll almost always see 3 numbers listed, like 3-12-6 or 5-10-5. These numbers represent the ratio of Nitrogen (N), Phosphorous (P) and Potassium (K) contained in the bottle. Just about all plant life on Earth needs these 3 elements to grow.
The very first number, “3” in the case of the picture to the right, always displays the proportion of nitrogen in this nutrient bottle compared to the other 2 nutrients (Phosphorus and Potassium respectively).
The reason nitrogen is in all plant nutrient formulations is because it’s vital to plant processes.
For marijuana plants, when they don’t get enough nitrogen, the bottom leaves start turning yellow and dying. Left unchecked, a nitrogen defi can cause the whole plant to eventually die.
However, this time we’re the dealing with the opposite problem: nitrogen toxicity, or too much nitrogen.
Why You Should Treat And Prevent Nitrogen Toxicity
⦁ Marijuana plants that get too much Nitrogen in the vegetative stage don’t grow as vigorously.
⦁ Too much nitrogen is especially harmful in the flowering stage, because this will cause your plant to produce much smaller buds.
⦁ If you react quickly and reduce your nitrogen levels at the first sign of toxicity, your plant will quickly recover.
Note: Some strains with the word “Claw” in the name tend to do The Claw more easily than others.
Problems with excess nitrogen are not common in the wild; it’s a lot more common to see nitrogen toxicity on indoor plants, especially when overzealous growers go overboard with nutrients.
Occasionally you’ll come across a strain or particular plant that likes lower levels of nutrients, and when this happens, it’s important to realize the plant is showing signs of toxicity, even if all the other plants in your garden seem fine.
One of the most common signs off too-many-nutrients is “nutrient burn,” or when the tips of your leaf appear brown or burned. Yet there are specific signals your plant will display when she’s getting too much nitrogen…
Recap: How You Know You Have a Nitrogen Toxicity
⦁ Dark green leaves and foliage
⦁ Leaf tips turn down, without signs of overwatering.
⦁ You may notice yellowing on the affected leaves or other signs of nutrient deficiencies as time goes on
⦁ Nitrogen toxicity is often but not always accompanied by nutrient burn
⦁ The Claw often seems random, affecting leaves here and there
⦁ Heat and pH problems will make the clawing worse, as they stress out the plant and lower her defenses, and cause her to drink more water (and uptake more N)
⦁ As time goes on, the claw leaves will eventually start turning yellow, getting spots, and dying
Light and “The Claw”
⦁ The distance between the leaves to the lights or irregular light patterns from reflectors often seem to affect the condition, which is why many growers believe that light is somehow causing the problem.
⦁ You may notice this clawing first appears on dark green leaves that aren’t getting enough light (they aren’t able to use up all their nitrogen and become nitrogen toxic).
The Claw in the Flowering Stage
⦁ If you use vegetative plant nutrients during the flowering stage, then they’ll deliver too much nitrogen. This is why you need to get special nutrients meant for the blooming / flowering stage. You’ll notice that flowering nutrients always contain a smaller percentage of nitrogen (the first number) compared to nutrients for the vegetative stage.
⦁ Many growers mistakenly keep raising nutrient levels or adding additional nitrogen when they see yellow leaves in the flowering stage, not realizing that it’s natural for plant leaves to start yellowing as harvest approaches. Adding too much nitrogen in the flowering stage can cause nitrogen toxicity even when you can see yellow lower leaves. Nitrogen toxicity in flowering results in smaller yields and airy cannabis buds, so make sure to watch out!

Note: During the last few weeks before harvest, marijuana plants starts pulling all the remaining nitrogen from her leaves as part of the bud-making process. This causes yellowing leaves starting towards the bottom of the plant. This is part of the natural flowering process and you don’t need to fight it. You may notice that marijuana leaves are yellowing in almost all pictures of marijuana plants with big buds that are close to harvest. You tend to get smaller yields at harvest from nitrogen-toxic plants with dark green leaves.
It’s Normal For Marijuana Leaves To Start Turning Yellow As Harvest Time Approaches, Don’t Keep Adding More Nitrogen!
I know a lot of marijuana plant problems can look similar, but now that you’re armed with the right information, you’ll know exactly what to do if you see Nitrogen Toxicity affecting your marijuana plants.
Leaf Color
⦁ Dark or Purple Leaves
⦁ Edges Appear Brown or Burnt
⦁ Veins of Leaves Stay Green
⦁ Yellow Leaves - Lower, older leaves
⦁ Yellowing Between Veins
Leaf Symptoms
⦁ Abnormal Growth
⦁ All Leaves Seem Affected
⦁ Leaf Edges Appear Burnt
⦁ Leaf Tips Appear Burnt
⦁ Leaf Tips Die
⦁ Leaves Curl Under
⦁ Lower Leaves / Older Growth Affected
⦁ Slow Growth
⦁ Small Inner Leaves Affected
⦁ Upper Leaves / Newer Growth Affected
⦁ Veins of Leaves Stay Green
⦁ Wilting / Drooping
⦁ Yellowing Between Veins
Other Symptoms
⦁ Buds Not Fattening
Plant Symptoms
⦁ Leaves Curl Under
⦁ Leaves Curl Upwards
⦁ Plant Wilting / Drooping
⦁ Slow Growth


How high is your light above the canopy? And if it has veg and bloom switches, are they both on or just the veg? This looks like slight nitrogen toxicity as Garrigan said, and almost no internodal stem length tells me the light is either too close or there’s not enough red to get her to stretch out…or she could just be stunted. Feed lighter or less often, and try raising the light a few inches to see if she’ll stretch out a little.

The good news is, being a photo, you have all the time you need (if you’re patient) to let her stretch out. Genetics says she will when you flip, for sure, if nothing else. Welcome :v:

DOH! I didn’t even realize the two switches were to control veg and bloom… Both are on… I’m running up now to turn the Bloom switch off.

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Having looked at the switches, it isn’t apparent which one is for Veg and which is for Flower… I’ve got a question into the provider but that is probably going to take a few days.

So I’ve been doing some reading on other forums and it sounds like running both Veg and Flower at the same time shouldn’t be a problem. I did raise the light up to it’s maximum but it was already 15 in above the plant…

We’ll see what happens in the next week.

Leave both switched on. You want the red the bloom switch will provide. How high above the canopy is your light fixture?

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Yeah, the manufacturer came back and indicated it was half power and full power switches so yeah, Full power all the way!


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Yup. and as suggestd raising the light up around 20-24 inches should make your girls ‘stretch’ for the lighting. How’s she looking since u tweakd?

I think I was under watering it. I went to pick up the pot and it was extremely light compared to when I first put it in. I was trying hard not to over water the plant and thought it was watered enough by the feel of the soil but now think it was only the top portion that was really moist.

Yea keep it watered and you will know if you need to chill out on the water based on how the leaves react. How is she looking now?

We like pictures!

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