Autos WW hydro help


Blessing in disguise. As long as you don’t KILL THEM! :wink:


@Fever I started mine out on that schedule
I didn’t have to lower it myself but I think you could do either right to 14/10 or slowly drop down a half hour a day till you reach it second may be a better option more natural reduction of light ?
And I believe the concern was Autos have a general time range from seed to harvest in description when ordering so people will get concerned especially if it there first grow @Whodat66 I’ve noticed a few people having issues with the ww auto not flowering ? And a few other strains
I grow mostly photos myself


I would think they have to flower eventually, unless they are male.


Some times you need to kick them in the bit a switch to a flower schedule to kick them into gear
My auto grow experience is limited tho to be completely clear with you
I have alway grow photos up recently
I was gifted a auto bean to give it a go their cool but I like my photos
I do have a ww auto going now
But it supplemental to my gold leaf I just potted
I think genetics play a part in auto that are stubborn and they retain more of the photo gene ? Just my thoughts
Autos are all female by design also


Trying not to lol :grinning:

Maybe you all can help me troubleshoot this problem though. The leaves on the middle plant of the 3 (which is the biggest and growing fastest) are emerging with yellow tips. It doesn’t spread very far on the leaves, but all of the new leaf tips seem to emerge with the yellowness. The other 2 plants, which flank this one on the left and right, have no discoloring.

At first I thought it was nute burn so I dropped nutes down to 350ppm from 415ish about a week ago. It was still happening so last night when I changed out the reservoir I only brought nutes to 250ppm which to me seems on the low side even when going significantly under the recommended doses. The tap water I use is around 100ppm before even adding nutes. This morning new leaves are still coming with the yellow tips so I am not sure the lower ppm helped.

I’ll put some pics below of close ups of the yellowing so you all can get a better look. Do you think it is nute burn even with such low nutrients in the water? If not, what else could it be? Since the plant with the yellowing is in the center is does get more light exposure so maybe it has something to do with that? Thanks for any suggestions!


Looks likeminded nute burn
How often are you feed and what are you feeding @kLockwerk


@Countryboyjvd1971 I am feeding when I change the res every 10 days. In between changes I top off with plain PH’d water. The nutes I am using are the General Hydroponics series with flora micro, flora grow, and flora bloom.


Ok I’m a soil guy but stand by what I said
Let’s tag a few hydro guys for you
@ktreez420 @Donaldj are two that come to mind right off the bat @kLockwerk


Thanks! Everything I have read and pictures makes it look like nute burn. I don’t know if it is a good idea to try running with no nutes to clear it up or not but it seems I can’t go much lower. I also don’t want my other plants to get a deficiency… but if I had to keep one of the three it would be the big one that is burning.


No problem
As I said I know there’s a lot more variables with hydro so I don’t want to give advice or suggestion i really do know much about it give the boys a little while to chime in they will in time @kLockwerk


What was your ppm before you dropped it? are you adding Cal-mag?
I would suspect that your ppm is actually too low myself since tips aren’t burnt but yellowing which shows signs of def. Also not too many details on environment which could also be factor


Hi @Donaldj ppm before I dropped it was ~400 and I am not adding Cal-mag. Just the GH floraseries and hydroguard. I have walked it down to 250ppm since starting to drop it, but not seeing any changes. Maybe you are right about it being too low…

As far as the environment goes it is a constant 75F degrees and humidity is 60-65%. The lights are 18" above the tallest point of the canopy.


Also the water temp in the res is a constant 68F. It is colder out of the tap when I change the res but warms up to 68 and stays there.


Yes this wwa is taking forever. I think the thing g is there is a longer transition phase for some of them


What I don’t want is all my plants flowering on me lol


@Countryboyjvd1971 @Fever, I read many journals and it does seem many autos have a glitch in their flower switch. Maybe just not quite enough ruderalis, I don’t know…I imagine they are trying to get the very least amount of ruderalis possible for a higher potency plant. and this is where the precarious auto runs into trouble. I also wonder whether ruderalis uses nutrients differently, although I have not read anything on the subject. Since it is a low THC plant, I am wondering if the usage, and needs are a little different…any thoughts?


Great discussion I’m going to look up more on ruderalis as I too know little


They are low thc high cbd, resistant to insects and pests and most likely grew feral and are not their own species but a sub-species of sativa. They are native to Eastern Europe and southern Russia and have been used in Mongolian and Russian folk medicine for things like depression.
Also found in the Midwest


@Fever it the low thc high cbd property(mostly) that has me wondering if the nutrient requirement is exactly the same as indica or sativa and if there is a variance, how does that play out in the grander scheme of things. Obviously auto plants live and grow with what they are given now, but if there is a difference, maybe autos require just a bit more phosphorous(for example) than do photo plants to be their absolute best…


Not in every Auto strain there is Ruderalis. I have some Auto Seeds like Pineapple Express Auto and Critical Kush Auto which both are without Ruderalis! So maybe just buy one without Ruderalis ^^