Autoflower Grow Journal: ViparSpectra600w

Hello Hello,

So, I just started a new autoflower grow session, 2 weeks ago, using a brand new Viparspectra600w for the very first time! I’m excited to see how my plants react with this new LED introduced to the Grow room.
I currently have 2 (2 weeks from sprout) AK47 autos & 1 other auto (around 1 week from sprout) going underneath a brand new Viparspectra600w, MarsHydro300w, GalaxyHydro/Roleandro 300w, and 1 more GalaxyHydro180w UFO…so 3 plants under a total of an ‘advertised’ 1380Watts. A couple of my auto’s from previous purchases got mixed up so I’m not entirely sure what the 3rd seed is, most probably blueberry or northern lights.
I am expecting a few more AK47 seeds to come in the mail soon, so I will add 1 or 2 more plants to the grow room as soon as I can.
I’m using a mix of different types of organic soil, little bit of coconut husk and perlite. I also added another layer of perlite the top to help with fungus gnats.
I’m keeping the lights on a 20/4 schedule and I’m currently wondering whether I should just be keeping both bloom and veg modes on at all times since I’m growing autos. If anybody has any advice on that I’d like to hear. I will try to update this once a week for my own sake of record keeping and depending on how curious anyone is on how it’s going. Pics below…2 2week old auto AK47s & 1 1week old unknown auto under my current light set up…remember I will be adding two more AKs as soon as I can.

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– 9/17 update below –
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Looks like you’re hooked up @MedMan1878

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You can run both (veg and bloom led) but I think you don’t need to run all your lights for start…but maybe I’m wrong. How big is your space?

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I was thinking same thing. All those lights are going to be very compact plants

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@bob31 & @M4ur… So I’m a little confused here I thought the more light means the more energy which equals bigger yields…Space is 18’x3.5’ but right now I am only utilizing about half that space, at least until the rest of my seeds come-- which then I’ll be adding one or two more plants to the area so I’ll definitely change the lighting arrangements then…but if you recommend doing something different with the lighting now I’m all ears…I’m still Learning here so any Advice at all is a big help

I thinking of that because for now them are to small to use that amount of light, seedling are not need all of that you have… I think you need only the Viparspectra 600 for now… It’s your choice.

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Maybe it would be best to understand that the LED lights are marketed at the equivalent wattage. To make things equal you need to know the “Actual or Draw wattage” or at the plug wattage of those lights.

The light coverage range is 30-50 “actual watts” per square foot of plants (many just use tent size to calculate)

When I see plants with really tight node spacing, it tells me that they are getting a lot of light. Not a bad thing as most of us have height limitations.

Also running a light schedule of 20/4 really isn’t needed and your plants will grow better with a more natural lighting pattern of 16/8 or even 14/10

What size is your tent of grow area?

Here are your lights:

Viparspectra 600w,
MarsHydro 300w,
GalaxyHydro/Roleandro 300w
GalaxyHydro 180w UFO

Please consult their websites or documentation to determine what their draw wattage is. The two 300 watt units probably pull about 120 watts each. The 180 maybe 50 watts. The Viparspectra is 275

So 275 + 120 + 120 + 50 = 535 total actual watts

30 watts per sq foot will cover up to almost 18 sq feet and 50 watts per sq foot will cover almost 11 sq feet.

  • These actual wattage numbers are guess-timates
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grow space is about 18’ x 3 1/2’…i’m currently only using about half that length until I get more plants under there

9x3.5 = 31.5 sq ft. x 30 (minimal) and 50 (great coverage) = 945 and 1575 true watts

For that space you would really need to have some more lighting. There are quite a few topics on lights that might help you! @MedMan1878

Thanks that’s good to know even though I probably overstated the size of a grow area by a little bit…I plan on growing five plants total so hopefully I can arrange them to cover the tightest area possible…I know the pots on my first three plants are a little bit bigger than needed so I’m also going to use a couple smaller 2 1/2 gallon pots for the final two plants…I also have a few CFLs I’m going to add to side lighting soon too

exactly, I’m sure it will be plenty at the start but you might want to save up a few nickels and get some more lighting in there, but You can only do what you can do.

as an example tho, I have a 3x3 tent and I have close to 400 watts in that space! @MedMan1878

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-----> 9/19-9/20 UPDATE <-----

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–> the plant towards the top of the photo is showing an interesting fade from the typical green into a yellowish shade on some of the leaves…too me it almost looks natural…Could a better trained ‘eye’ take a look at this and provide any info about it?? …I would like to make sure it is in-fact just a natural coloring of the leaves & nothing to fuss about…Tnx!

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Taking a look at the ‘actual power draw’ from within the brand specs, and reading what product users have experienced, the ‘true watts’ for each of my LEDs is as follows:

Viparspectra 600w —> 276w
GalaxyHydro 300w —> 125w
GalaxyHydro UFO 180w —> 90w
MarsHydro 300w —> 150w
TOTAL True Watts = 641 Watts

Take a picture in natural light whit that plant, I think she’s sick!
Also you need to fill this out!
COPY/PASTE: This “Support Ticket” into your forum post.
Answer these simple questions the best you can.
If you do not know, or do not use something; Just say so = NA

Strain; Type, Bag seed, or NA

Soil in pots, Hydroponic, or Coco?

System type?

PH of runoff or solution in reservoir?
Pt
What is strength of nutrient mix? EC, or TDS

Indoor or Outdoor

Light system, size?

Temps; Day, Night
Humidity; Day, Night

Ventilation system; Yes, No, Size

AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier,

Co2; Yes, No
Add anything else you feel would help us give you a most informed answer. Feel free to elaborate, but short, to the point questions and facts will help us help you

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@M4ur @bob31 Response to trouble shooting form, and picture updates below. PLEASE NOTE* since you asked this question the youngest and smallest plant has also began to show discoloration and signs of stress. However the physical damage looks different than the original plant in question. Other than the strain of auto flower, the filled out Q&A form below can be applied to both plants.

i’m sure you could provide better insight but right now my 3 suspects are:

  1. pH problems
  2. Heat stress/temperature problems
  3. Insect problems

—> Strain of sick plant is AK-47 Autoflower. Smaller plant is an unknown autoflower, most likely northern lights or blueberry. Both are from ILGM.

Soil in pots, Hydroponic, or Coco?
System type?
—>Pot
Pot mixture—> 50% magic dirt potting soil (A renewable biomass soil product/not actually dirt, more like recycled cow dung)

—>20% coco husk/peat moss(miracle Gro ‘hydrate’)
—>20% generic potting soil (EarthGro potting soil mix)
—>10% added miracle Gro perlite

PH of runoff or solution in reservoir? --> NA (decided not to incorporate pH into the grow this time because I have not done it before and I have heard that using soil acts as a pH buffer already and adjusting the pH could actually hurt the balance of the soil pH, especially if you’re new to dealing with pH. The Ph is unknown so I’m thinking pH is my suspect #1
What is strength of nutrient mix?
—>Magic dirt nutrient mix-
N= 1.05%
P= .3%
K= .35%
–> having trouble finding the NPK ratios of all the soil types I used because I mixed so many different types there’s really no telling what the real balance of nutrients Is.

EC, or TDS --> again don’t have the tool for pH EC or TBS

Indoor or Outdoor—> indoor

Light system, size?
—> 4 LEDs totaling around 650 actual watts
Temps; Day, Night —> hovering within 75 to 83° /averaging at 80°
Humidity; Day, Night —> mid 70s (normal) …sometimes higher when the door is closed for too long but only briefly. If I do have heat stress then humidity could also be a factor as I’m not sure how hot and humid the closet gets when the door was closed for those few hours each day. (as of last week though I am now always keeping door slightly ajar when away)
AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier,
Co2; Yes, No
—> adequately & ‘naturally’ ventilated…not worried about smell so I keep closet door usually open (have a dog so sometimes door was closed for few hours at a time while at work, but only for the first week or 2…again, It might have gotten a little too hot the first couple weeks so now always keeping door at least partially cracked when away)…heat stress?? Another possible culprit?? I’m also thinking this because distressed plant is the furthest away from the door which is providing the ventilation which means this plant is probably experiencing a little bit higher temperatures than the other two.

Suspect #2 - heat stress
— One of the bags of potting mix I had reused from the last grow… That being said I have encountered an extraordinary amount of fungus gnats in the grow area particularly in the plant that is looking stressed or dis-colored (towards the back)…so my third and final suspect is an insect problem possibly with these fungus gnats… I’m thinking this because there’s no way I can have this many gnats wen I have not been overwatering. In fact I’ve only watered two major times other than when I first planted them…so if I have been watering correctly and still have a large amount of fungus gnats, something tells me that they got into the already open soil bag, which was sitting outside for a while before I used it…it wasn’t completely airtight just rolled up and pinched with a clothes pin like a bag of chips and a chip clip… not to mention I’ve let the soil dry and then moistened the top layer with hydrogen peroxide and distilled water several times over and I still have a pretty bad gnat problem…

They haven’t seemed as bad in the smaller plant however so my insect theory, at least the gnat part I’m hoping isn’t an issue with the smaller plant…can’t say for sure tho because there’s always a spider more possibility…The spotty discoloration/damage shown on the smaller plant looks very similar to the damage spider mites cause…ugh!!
At least I can say they still seem to be growing at a decent rate…The biggest and most healthiest plant is also in the best lighting spot which is the only reason I think it’s bigger than the other similar sized plant. The biggest one also got a few days of a Head start over the second biggest…ugh! Help!?!
B. ---->9/22 updates below<-----
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edited by latewood - admin, removal of unapproved commercial link. Images as I posted are OK without actual links or company dotcom links. :slight_smile:

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@MedMan1878
I don’t know where you are getting this info about pH from, but it is bad information and you need to stop listening to that person / website or whatever it is.

So what is going on is this. You don’t know the pH of your water

You mixed soil (and maybe very HOT soil) with Cow Manure and a bunch of stuff that isn’t soil.

Your water is most likely at a pH of over 7 and that mix of soil is probably somewhere between 5.8 and 6.5 but it would really depend on the amounts of all of those ingredients

New growers need to stick with one medium. Either soil or a soiless mix but when you combine the two it just creates uncertainty.

Buy a pH Meter, pH up and down and pH Meter calibration fluid of 7.0

Do this ASAP and always pH your water! At the time when you start using nutrients, you would add the nutrients to the water and then pH that mixture. Setting the pH is always the last thing you do before using the water or nutrient mix.

Once you get the meter and pH up and down you will need to do a slurry test of your soil to determine the proper pH of the water.

Please remove that link to the Magic Dirt as outside links are not permitted and I don’t really have time to look at that. I you’d like help, please post the ingredients here for us.

Get yellow stickies like used for flies for the soil gnats and let the soil dry out in between waterings Also get some sweet smelling liquid and put it in a bowl. The flying gnats will fly to the bowl and drowned. I use apple cider vinegar and mix it with water.

Are you using any fans in your tent? Fans help keep the gnats from flying and also helps prevent heat stress. I had temps over the summer in my tent that exceeded 90 degrees and i had no heat stress.

Neem oil spray will also help with the gnats and will food grade DE spread of the top of the soil.

Here is a chart that will help you with those symptoms.

deficiencies

Nutrient_Chart2

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Your PH is off. PH is the first and foremost important aspect of growing anything. If PH is off , depending whether it is too alkaline, or too acidic, will lead to minerals being unavailable. :wink:

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Tnx…& I have no idea why that obnoxious picture link wAs imbedded Into my response…I only provided the link to the ingredients of the mixture…when I reviewed the post the first time that picture link wasn’t even in there…tnx for the help & I will be sure to focus on pH from now on and be more careful when pasting the Links into my responses…lol that is ridiculous I don’t even have that picture anywhere my phone! Anyway I got u and Tnx again & yes I’m using fans and grow room and I already have the yellow stickies I am trying to get a better control on the problem it seems to be getting better gradually

Tnx! No more trusting Random stuff on the Internet ! Again I took a decent chunk of time into researching about pH, and about adjusting pH in soil…and there is a least a few different instances on the Internet (yes I know the Internet is full of brain-dreads) that recommended not adjusting it with soil mixes, especially if you’re using a lot coconut husk and Peat Moss, and that it’s easier to mess up using a soil mixture!! At least one Internet article and 2 forum answers, (separate from this website) all saying pretty much the same thing…should’ve looked harder and not strayed away from the ILGM forums…SOB! This is my fourth or fifth grow session, and just the first time ive run into a problem this bad…other than a small insect problem that I fixed on a separate grow…guess it was inevitable when continuing to ignore pH over and over again

@latewood @bob31

Since I don’t have a working pH meter, but I do have a bottle of pH up and down, what’s the quickest way you recommend me fixing this problem or at least helping it? In this situation is there any way to tell from the known information, whether the pH is likely extremely high or low? Probably a bad idea but I thought I’d At least ask to see if there is anyway to maybe add a small amount of pH up or down with my next watering???

P.s. I just read that the pH of magic dirt claims to be between 6 and 7