At a loss for layout and method

As this is my first rodeo and I’m currently hosting 3 WWA’s and a fourth up and cummer, I am leaning towards LST.
Am I correct in understanding that Autos don’t do very well with aggressive measures as so many other strains benefit.
Right now I am benefiting from the fact that they’re small, access is unrestricted and the amount of care is limited.
But they’re getting near transplant time and they
will be soon moving into a 5x5 grow room.
The challenge here is going to be that as they grow and the canopy becomes full and dense my access will be severely restricted and any meaningful access will require only filling 1/2 the room and leaving room for me to scootch them around like a back alley shell game or make something that will facilitate access with minimal impact on the plants as it would seem a death sentence to not only receive a great grooming but shovingbthe ladies around doing it. Any ideas?

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Hey @jorkvilleyoe I also have limited access, I bet a lot of peps do. My solution is to move my front row of plants to access the rear plants. Your room/tent may limit your plants to two rows so you can shuffle them around.
If you are going to be using a trellis for SOG grow then you can’t move them much. Using a single row would be the best way to enable access throughout your grow.
If you are using a 5x5 grow room with only a door access then you would be a little more limited. Like does the door swing in or out? If you have to go inside to do maintenance then you’ll probably want to leave a foot of empty floor space adjacent to the door.

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Low stress training is great for autos because some can be very finicky and with a limited time schedule before they flower you don’t want them to get stunted. I don’t grow autos often but when I do, I limit transplants to 1 and only 1. If you are handy enough, I’ve seen multiple people here that have repurposed and or built their own lazy Susan type thing that can be found in come corner kitchen cabinets. Set the plants on it and you can rotate the entire assembly to access each plant individually.

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Is a tent or closet?
I built a 32x72" closet that will hold three of these. The closet has a pocket door. I roll one of the frames out of the closet to work on it. Move it to the side and roll out another. The area outside of the closet has just enough room for all three.

This one is a solo in my 3x3

The frames are on five 2" casters

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I personally have just been growing any auto straight up. Less footprint. I also have photo vegging with them so really increases space to move. Just me. I get good yields on the auto also. Not lst or scrog size but also much less work.

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I do apologize as I left out a few critical details,it was an unused bathroom(vanity and toilet.)
There is but one door and fortunately bit swings out.the only way I can effectively use the space and SOG grown would be make some frames and put wheels under them.I figured a 5x5 grow space with 20" in between plants I can get 9 of them in there.my frames could be as large as 18" x18" and fit with room to maneuver them around. Any work being done would require removal to do so with that many plants.

This is exactly what I’ve been contemplating .Build 9 of them about 16 x16 .what size is yours and where did you source the pvc fittings at the corners? They had to be pricey,that’s not a cut and dry molding/extruding/fabrication process. Typically plumbing supplies aren’t as versatile as legos.

Please if you will tell me where you bought those pvc fittings you used to create the corners.

They are widely available. They are usually found under furniture grade fittings or pipe. You are correct about $$. But if you are OK with colors or some appearance imperfections, the are priced much more reasonably.

The exterior dimensions are approx. 24x24". I did a thread on the frames I made for the closet.

this table may be of use. I used 1 1/4 pipe and 1" pipe because the smaller fits inside the larger.

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so what size fittings/pipe did you use to build these?
Does 1" pipe fit inside a 1" fitting?
The post from Scroggers that you provided is conflating that to the point I can’t tell.
Common sense would indicate you would use the same size fitting as the pipe but sense isn’t so common with some of these specialty items.
Ty very much for your patience,it would appear as though yours are just press fit together without gluing them.

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1" fittings / Tees connect 1" pipe
likewise, 1 1/4 fittings connect 1 1/4 pipe. The white pipe fits snugly inside the red 1 1/4 4-way tee.

The vertical legs of the top 1" frame fits inside the 1 1/4 pipe. There is too much play if I only used the tee to make this change to the smaller pipe. That is why I cut a length of 1 1/4 pipe to fit into the tee. Then the 1" slides freely inside the the bushing.
From the above table, the OD of 1’ pipe is 1.315" while the ID of 1 1/4 pipe is 1.360. Enough clearance for the pipe to slide up & down.

Hope this helps.

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It certainly does help and you have a great system for adding another level of lattice/netting AND a great way to facilitate adjustment of the height of the second level…ty

Ok so now I’m gonna bug you again,n where did you source those fasteners,what size and are they self tappers?
TYIA.

@beardless
Did you source those fasteners at Fastenal? so did you pre drill and use “self tapping stainless button head hex drive screws”?
Say that 3x’s as fast as you can.
After sampling your latest…

thats a rather clever idea but those things are barely 12"-15" wide from the center shaft to the edge of the molded plastic shelf.(I’ve installed them.) Unless somehow they fabricated a alternate circular shelf to replace that original one and increase its footprint.

From local hardware store or Menards, Home Depot.

I predrilled. It is easier. I used 1/2" for all connections and for the scrog. 3/4 works too.

pre drilling is very wise as pvc tends to crack when under tension of excess material being displaced by the diameter of the screw.
I used to work in underground and almost every watermain failure involving blue brute C-900 PVC was near a penetration especially if the length of the pipe had been deflected( bent). City pressure within was not the culprit…ever.
I understand we not talking apples and oranges here as far as stresses under intended application but anytime you compromise the pvc that point has become a most likely candidate for failure when challenged to an extent that approaches its max. service condition.

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