Ask me anything!

Yes buddy, me too. I was gone for some months and came back to find that chart is flooding the forum. I usually run 60 all through flower until the last couple of weeks where I have a heavy drop off.

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Does this plant need to be transplanted before I switch to 12/12?





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Welcome back first of all! There’s a Bugbee video on the forum a little while back re-evaluating the old notions of light sensitivity. The takeaway was essentially if it was too dark to read large print, the light level was below the threshold for reaction in the strains tested. That said, I would not disagree with your advice about covering light leaks. Better safe than sorry, and few people would have meter with the sensitivity capability he was using in his demonstration. Found it very interesting, thought you might too unless you’ve already watched.

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@anon72256435 sorry I did miss that, good catch on your part. I think you have the gyst of it though, feel free to tag me at any time as you go down that rabbit hole.

@Cdholman81382
I can’t tell how big that pot is and I don’t know what medium your growing in, I assume your growing in soil and that pot looks to be 1 gallon… But this is a Geuss.
However I would transplant that plant in that case and let it grow bigger before flipping.
Hopefully you have enough lighting, also I suggest using a fabric pot.

You will also need a nutrient line for flower even though your in soil so be prepared for that.

@OverallQuill80
When I left he had been working on the study because they had just made these light sensing devices. However I will say that countless times we have seen the LED on power bars, humifiers, or AC infinity controllers have negative effects on plants in flower (not during veg)

I’ll watch that! Thanks!

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Thanks again for the link, yes he did say if it’s to dark to read then cannabis is safe.

However there are two big takeaways from things he touched on, one being your eyes must be light adjusted and this is why I always say to people zip yourself up inside your tent with the room lights on and let your eyes adjust.

The second was he mentioned the light may be bright enough in a corner (or really anywhere there is a light source like an led or pin hole) to cause one plant to have issues but not the rest.

I have had an issue with my tent twice in my growing experience where I didn’t check my darkness and was oblivious to small light pollution, this caused issues on half the plant (really sucks come harvest day).

I think anyone who has been around the forum enough or grown for long enough has seen this issue arise and cause issues for other growers to.

Definitely a good video and I’m grateful for the knowledge, our “greenhouses” are so small though that a small light leak can wreck 1/2 or 1/4 of our crop over something so simple.

I’m tearing down my own tents soon and putting them back into grow mode come fall, the amount of work that is feels daunting. Because it’s not only setup but it’s tweaking everything like temp, RH, timers, light leaks, watering systems yada yada yada… Prevention and rigorous setup goes along way towards avoiding many frustrations.

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Bottom line using a metric is 10 umols and below is safe for cannabis during the “night” time. 10 umols is brighter than the brightest full moon on the clearest night as the Dr put it. If an LED light on a strip or humidifier bothers you, cover it up but this does not equal light pollution that can stress our girlz. My lights out is during the day and I have a small vent in my tent which is left open for intake air and I have not had any stress related issues yet and cannot read print when I step inside the tent and zipper up.

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Fortunately in my case it is easy enough. The tent is jammed tightly in a closet and I have a blackout curtain. Also I cover any leds when applicable. Full dark without any extra work and staying on the safe side here.

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I think I’m ready to harvest! Been using “living soil , Sohum and Gaia. Any special instructions before I chop?? 24 hour darkness, flush, etc?
I did give a little boost tea last night.
Also I want to reveg this plant. I scorched the clones I took



If you feel happy with where tricombs are, 48hr of darkness followed by chopping the main stem right off before 2min.

Get some yoyo’s or I use a carabiner to hold my plant upside down after the chop, it has to be quick. Ide have to look back to explain the full process but it’s something about nutrients, sugars or startches rushing from the root zone up into the plant when lights come on.
Not everyone does this but I believe it has some benefits and it’s now my standard practice.

Flushing is bro science, forget about it.

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Hey new grower here, I got 5 seeds of blue dream and they’re little seedlings, it’s been almost 3 weeks since they sprouted. Been a combo of outdoor and indoor and i’ve had the light for over a week now. I used fox farm dirt and water the top every few days. I keep the light on for 14-16 hours daily. Or if outdoors 12-14 hours. Thanks for any and all advice!





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You’ll never know until you buy the meter how bright that led on a powerbar, or some other device is… Again it’s not about the whole plant or all plants it’s about that area around the led that can be picked up by the plant that’s closest.

Your grows are pretty compact compared to a giant greenhouse. If it’s an autoflower it doesn’t matter of course.

I would air on the side of caution, because again from experience power bar LED’s have caused issues and so have light leaks in small tents that are packed with bushy big plants.

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Plants look good, learn to water your soil by weight of the pot so pick it up.
Download photo phone and use the sunlight DLI calculator, learn and understand VPD this will greatly help you, however at young stages like this you can put plastic domes over the plants such as cut 4gallon milk containers (transparent, doesn’t have to be clear) but high moisture levels in veg state are key.

Ensure you have a nutrient line for flower.
If they are photos /regs/fems, re plant them into fabric pots before you flip lights to 12/12. If they are autos then just do it next grow, clay pots are not ideal for many reasons. Clay sucks the moisture out, they are heavy, don’t allow root air pruning like fabric, can change the PH of the medium over time.

Also ensure you have a TDS and quality PH meter (aphera sells a good one)
PH your water or nutrient water if it’s over 200 TDS.

In soil its ideal to water only as much as needed, don’t water to runoff unless using nutrient water otherwise the runoff is just stripping nutrients out of your soil.
Do a soil slurry test to test your soil PH & TDS after 4 or 5 weeks, at 900 ppm TDS you will want to start feeding and during those feeding waters ensure 20% run off.

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Thank you very much! The pots look clay but they are plastic and the seeds are feminized. The light is 80% 200 watt light 23 inches above. I’ll have to get nutrients from fox farm I saw the nutrients from the dirt would suffice for a couple months.

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Would plastic bags suffice to cover them?

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Can we talk about true herms vs nanners (rodentilization)? All too often I see people interchanging these words even though they’re separate phenomena, but what truly causes each? Are they always preventable, or are some cases inevitable? Also, why is the pollen from a purposefully hermed plant for feminized seeds ok, but nanner / ball pollen allegedly has a higher chance of herms (these two statements seem to contradict one another)? I think there’s a lot of myths out there on what causes both, but not seen very much concrete evidence other than anecdotal evidence.

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I swear those trichs change on a daily basis, sometimes see more amber, then today it’s barely there?
Any truth to that? Or is just my bloodshot eyes :eyes:

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Been trying to read and understand HOW and WHEN to use the trellis netting?
I run autoflower, last run had one that got very tall and 2 small and i had hard time with the light, wanna kinda control their growth direction.
Also, can you try and break down for me how much water do i wanna water the soil? From my understanding i want to make the entire soil wet (not soggy wet) but not runoff, can runoff only with nuts. Let half a day to a day of dry and wet again? Is that basically it?
My current grow just entered week 3, autos

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When i meant half a day to a day dry i meant after you see the soil dried btw

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You’ll want to use the app to measure lighting, there is no other accurate way due to all the variables.

Also I wouldn’t do plastic bags, but something in your recycling bin I’m sure will work. Before I bought plastic plant bell’s (that what they call them) I used a orange juice jug for a bit and other things I’ve seen people use. Get creative.

Also I would advise against fox farms nutrients, they make good soil but their nutrient tables are wack. To be honest Jack’s is the best (order online jack321 and you’ll get tons of support, it’s the easiest to use and super cheap) but general hydroponics will do a good job to and can be found at any store so that would be my 2nd recommendation.

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They do change daily, it’s important to take an average of looking at multiple different parts of the buds. Of course the very top buds will mature faster.
Ensure they have that mushroom cap head on them, a little bit of Amber rly isn’t that bad but experiment yourself. Higher potency will come with a little bit of Amber allowing a higher percentage of the plant to mature but the Amber can cause a little bit of a indica feel.
Thr tricombs will still mature a tiny bit over the 48hr with no light.

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