Any electricians or electrically inclined person in our community?

I am trying to run a circuit out from the house 50’ to power my shed containing my grow tent. I have 100 amp FUSE panel from the 1940’s. I want to run a 115v window unit and of course all the equipment in a standard grow tent.
My idea is, i have a central air condensor that we dont use (broke) so there is a dedicated 220 with a 30 amp breaker set up and wired to the busted condensor- i would like to run two 110v lines to the shed, giving a dedicated circuit to the 115v window unit ac and the other 110v setup for grow lights, fans ect. I have a new roll of 10-2 feeder wire. I have ideas on what to do but that gets us no where or i wouldnt be here askin lol So any help would be appreciated

that’s 10/2 plus ground right?

I have never worked with the old glass fuse panels…but where your 220 was you should see two outlets, plus a common on the other side…
you would attaché the black wire in you 10/2 to one of the outlets and the white wire to the common on the other side.

if your 10/2 does not have a ground wire…take it back and get romex with a ground wire.

Here is a little more info- im using a wire with 2 coated 10 awg and a 10 awg bare ground 600v cap

I figured i dont have to worry about the fuse box since a professional wired the ac years ago and we used the unit til it died. So i figure we have the power wired and ready just sitting there mounted to the back of the house already so why pop a hole in the back of the exterior wall and tap into an inside 110 outlett, plus that may overload the circuit with the window unit kicking on in the shed and whatever else is on in the house on the same circuit i tapped into. So i figured that ac is the answer i needed for the power i need and to avoid double tapping into the glass fuse panel

that setup in the picture is gonna give you 230v

You only pull off 1 leg other 2 wires to ground and you can have 2 110 lines

Is that a problem-O? Or could i disconnect the breakers. Hook my 10 -2 wire up to the 2 hots run that to the shed to a small sub panel with 2 15 amp breakers and have 2 circuits that way? If that plan is a hot mess you can just tell me your knowledge, you dont have to explain why my theory wouldnt work lol

you could hook up to those two hots,… but trace back to the box and disconnect one and transfer it to the common side…
there are some ways to make it “work”… but I am not going to give you any advice I do not think is safe… jerry rigging is fine and dandy until your house burns down… or your grow…I would hate to see you on youtube jumping up and down yelling “save my weed dude!!” at the firemen, lol…


You have to make each hot leg a separate line t o get 110 volt out of 220. 220 Is 2 common 1 ground. 110 is 1 common and 2 ground .

I wire 110 white common green ground black ground

So are you saying take one wire from my 10- 2 wire and hook it to one side of the breaker and connect the other coated wire and bare ground in my 10-2 wire to the ground thats run with the 220/230

Hey my friend. A 60’ run of 220 requires 6g cable. Especially if you are going to place that much of a load. I know this is code because I had to use 6g to electrify my commercial greenhouse. Hope this helps, and yes you can do what you want to do with 2-110 circuits but, you need 6g cable (buried) :wink:


[quote=“Muddduck1, post:8, topic:7028, full:true”]
You have to make each hot leg a separate line t o get 110 volt out of 220. 220 Is 2 common 1 ground. 110 is 1 common and 2 ground .
Im having a hard time following you. If i just run a single 110 line to my shed from one hot leg that wont be enough to power the window ac and all the grow room equipment if its just 110 right? And i figured instead of changing to two 15 amp breakers and running two 110 lines to my shed that i would hook up directly to the 2 hot legs and hook to a sub panel on myshed where i split the 2 legs into two 110 circuits, one dedicated to the ac and one to the grow tent. Sorrybto repeat myself but i didnt kniw if you read thatbpost from above where i listed this idea

10-2 won’t work. You need 6-3. You need Black White conductors and green for ground. Then you run that into a panel in the shed. This will allow you a 220 service to your shed. Out of that panel you can add 2 breakers and run 2 separate circuits. :slight_smile:


Need at least 6/3 wire to shed 10/2 not big enough

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Crap, hopefully i can return it to lowes since i already unrolled it. This crap was expensive enough but if this is the safest way then thats what has to happen. Thanks for the help man :alien:

Thanks for your help everyone, guess im going to Lowes and see what kinda money trouble im in

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So that wire is even more expensive than the expensive i thought it would be lol
So would this idea work. If i hooked the window unit 115v ac up 10 ’ away from the 220/230? Condensor shut off box with a dedicated line to the window unit 10’ away. Then i use the wire i have already ( 10-2 ) to run power to the shed 50’ away that will power grow lights and grow equipment in a 4’x 36in tent . No ac or power tools or heavy motor pull. Would this work or do i just need to bite the bullet and come up with another 200 bucks for 50’ of 6-3 wire and such?
Also i dont wanna burry the cable. I would like to run it thru pvc conduit across the yard because i plan to move in the next 6 months to a year and want to take it with me ao i font have to buyit all over again at the new place? Anyone bored lol?

@4play, @latewood is giving you some good advice. I can tell you I have run many electrical circutes. Low volt, high volt, 21K, 480, 277, 240, you get the point I am sure. Code is there for reason. STOP, as it is wired now, you cannot hook up 110v circuits at the Air Compressor disconnect! Please read on. Go online and use a chart or calculator to determine the wire size. Add up the current draw for EVERYTHING you are going to plug in. You need to know what the total AMP draw from the 30 AMP disconnect (air Compressor) box is going to be. The formula is I(A) = P(W) / (PF × V(V)) or, When you know AMP draw go here In your case you can use 10AWG (for commercial 6AWG). At the disconnect connect 10AWG 3 separate conductors. Two Black and one White 10AWG. One Green 12AWG. The green will make it to code, but is not needed to make it work, if you know what I mean :slight_smile: The green grounds one box (disconnect) to the other (shed). BLACK to the breakers. WHITE MUST go to neutral. The center wire on the main box. In your case this might be bare copper running back to the box in the house. On your disconnect, the white wire from the house is actually a leg of the 240v circuit. It should have black tape on it as it is technically a BLACK wire. Run the new white wire back to the house box neutral. If you don’t one leg of your 120v circuits will not have a solid neutral. You could also inadvertently end up with 240v at your new outlet. Your disconnect is not safely wired for 120v without a solid neutral. Bury (or not) GRAY plastic electrical conduit. Hook your conduit up with fittings to both boxes. Use a shop vacuum and a rag with a light string tied to it 75 feet long. Stuff it in the buried conduit and suck it through. Tie the string to strong rope and pull your wire through. Pull it from the disconnect to the Junction box in the shed. Drive a ground rod into the ground at the shed. Hook a bare copper ground lead to it and run it to your shed box. In the shed box as stated above by you, one side (Black and White) is 120V the copper is ground… Both black is 240v and white is neutral. Ground is the copper. So you have, in the shed, a box with the ability to hook up 120V or 240v. 30 AMPS TOTAL @ 240v or, 30 amps per side @ 120v. Your breakers are at the disconnect. This seems cumbersome, and a lead cord is attractive. A 50’ 10AWG lead cord can handle 30 AMPS. OR you could bury (or not) 10-4 direct bury cable and forget the conduit. I think this may seem like a lot. I am confident however when correctly wired, nothing will burn down.



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Whoa @Muddduck1! That’s WHITE to NEUTRAL (and wired to earth ground at any buss), BLACK is HOT (common one side of 240v line in), GREEN is GROUND inside (other side of buss), BARE COPPER is GROUND and/or EARTH GROUND). In the USA.