Ancient Wiseman Soil Recipe for HUGE yields/quality

If anyone is looking for a tried and true soil recipe that requires minimal additional feeding and still gives you the yields and quality you want, then look no further. Try this mixture and you won’t regret it!

Soil Mixture:

coco coir: 40%

perlite: 20%

pumice: 5%

vermiculite: 5%

compost: 5%

worm castings: 15%

composted chicken manure(1.5-.5-.8): 5%

composted cow manure (3-2-1): 5%

humic acid: 2-10 lbs/ yard

kelp meal (1-.1-2): 5-10 lbs/ yard

feather meal (12-0-0): 10-15 lbs/ yard

nitrogen bat guano (10-3-1): 3-5 lbs/ yard

phosphorus guano (0-8-11): 3-5 lbs/ yard

azomite rock powder: 10-15 lbs/ yard

cal phos powder (0-3-0): 5 lbs/ yard

diatomaceous earth (silica): 1 lb/ yard

Mycorrhizae + trichoderma: 1 cup/ yard

(4.5-2.5-1.8) manure

(23-11.1-14) amendments

Once your soil is in your pot, throw some straw or mulch over the top. This will greatly improve your microbial life and allow you to water with high pressure without causing the compost/lighter particles to separate and float towards the top. After that, you can simply add 2 cups of a mixture of the nutrient amendments, per yard of soil, every month after the first. If you additionally water with castings/kelp/compost/meal tea (if you want the tea recipe just ask), you can create a beneficial microbial environment that will fight off root pathogens, detrimental insects and disease. If your soil health is good enough, most soil born non-benificial insects will perish. When you enter week 3 of flowering, you can then begin feeding a primary water soluble bloom line if your strain can handle it.

Side notes:
-coco coir is super absorbent so if you are using a smart pot, make sure your ground floor is made of stuff that will drain and dry out, otherwise your pot may leech back moisture.
-the mixture uses pumice and perlite because pumice sinks while perlite floats, and it’s good to have both.
-I would recommend not using additional nutrients until your plant’s roots have taken off and your plant is thriving.

Using this soil recipe, brewing teas, and then using only 1/4th strength SeaBlast in bloom, you can very consistently pull off 3-5 lbs, and I have seen plants in 200 gal pots grow to a comfortable 8 lbs with no signs of deficiencies from start to finish. If you have any questions just ask!

Some pics:

7 Likes

Great recipe, I plan to use larger soft pots and wouldn’t be able to use fox farm, too expensive.
You wouldn’t have a cost to make it up do you?
Beautiful plants

Making your own soil like this will be much cheaper then bag soil. If you go to the catalogue on the Durham Worm Farm website, it should have fair prices for everything I listed in my recipe besides I think the trichoderm or granulated humic acid. It really depends on how much soil you need, as you get better rates on bulk amounts. For example, all of the nutrient amendments I buy come in a minimum of 50-80 lb bags. So for 4 meal nutrients, that’s 4x$80 but it’s enough to fill 8-10 yards of soil (yard = 200 gal about). So for a single yard of mixed soil… I think it should come out to like 100-130$. I believe a pallet of regular soil bags is close to a yard, and that can go as high as 300$. If you have a retail distribution license or location, you can even order massive bulk shipments of like coco coir for 100-200$ per metric ton. Since coco coir is 40% of the soil… that would drop your per yard cost down to probably 80$.

2 Likes

thanks again I book marked recipe

No problem. It’s honestly worth taking the time to learn what each component of your soil contributes to your soil mixture. It will help you in finding the perfect balance for your specific environment. You would be amazed at how many people have zero clue about what’s actually in the bag of soil they bought.
I have come to the conclusion that like 99% of all marijuana related health problems either start because of, or are, a watering practice issue. Once you learn how each piece of your soil responds to water, it gives you a better idea of what the actual appropriate schedule should be. Some soils need more calcium/phosphorous, others can’t be watered at high pressures because they will separate and form layers that prevent the water from penetrating. Your yield is a result of how happy your roots are, and the more you know about soil, the easier it is to put them in essentially fool-proof situations. My recipe was created with the goal of being the most consistent, cost effective, and idiot-proof plan that can be applied in commercial gardens where individual plant attention is not realistic.

3 Likes