Hey there again sorry to ask a redundant question as I think I know I can do what I am asking, so I have a washer and dryer socket at my house I know it’s 240v problem is if I set up tent it’s be in the hall way. I know I’m a 240 volt there is about 30 amps and that I could play w 24 of them roughly safely. If I were to get a 240v extension cord and run it and run it to the light controller this would be safe correct. The light controller has 120v connectors I’ve looked up extensions cod for 240v that connects to 120v. The light controller is 50 amps however I don’t plan on running but 4 lights 1000w I hope ive explained enough? In other words I want to run tent in a room that is not as close to 240socket and I don’t want to call an electrician to set up 50 amps when I have this I utilized 240v right here and it’s perfect for what I am trying to do thank you for all the input
What is full load current on each of the ballasts? You would probably be fine if you kept everything at 240v. But dropping down to 120v will double your current, and 4 ballasts is probably more than your 30a circuit can handle.
Yea I know dropping to 120v will double it that’s why I want to run w the light controller in the set up I explained is that possible @dbrn32
I don’t know if its possible without fla on the ballast, I asked above. I’m guessing no, because even at 100% efficient that’s a current draw of over 8 amps per ballast. 8x4=32 amps, which is already over 30 amps without considering ballast efficiency losses or typical load derating.
The light controller should act as a soft start, but I’m not sure what is included for transformer.
I’m sorry I’ll be running two hlg 600 v2 if this helps any? These come ready to go in box 120v but it’s run a lot cooler at 240v and less of a strain. To further explain hat I mean what this light controller has a 120v plug per side I’m sure you know what a controller does but say in my situation where the tent will be 10 to 15 ft! I was just trying to runt a 240v cordon@dbrn32
You can make a cord if you have the proper plugs. You just need to make sure your controller is doing what you need it to.
Excuse me for my ignorance but by doing what I need it to do you would mean what exactly? That is is running st 240v. I don’t see how it wouldn’t at it really doesn’t support any other voltage beneath 240v enlighten me please @dbrn32 from what I’ve been informed the specifications can be reached light wise as I have the option to have the 240v qb thanks so very much!
In another note would it just be better run 120v utilize heat fromthat to the environment as I’ve also been told qb’s run cool as hell?
Running them at 240v is what I suggested to do in my original post.
I’m not sure beyond that lol. I’m confused, which isn’t hard to do nowadays
Sorry about that well it’s simple sorry I have a light controller that will allow me to run at 240v and I can’t put my rent in the walkway where I have a 240v washer circuit or whatever. I wanted to grab an extension cord to runt the controller which will allow me to run 240v is that ok to do? Keep in mind that the controller has. 120v hook up hence then extensions cord I showed in original post hope you can help now
If it’s 240v in and 240v out, why does it have 120v receptacles on it? I guess that’s where I was confused. What does manufacturer suggest about how to use it?
Generally speaking, as long as conductor is sized properly there’s not really anything wrong with running a cord. The fact that your source is smaller than recommended for the controller shouldn’t be too much of an issue, provided your load is under recommended load for source feed. If two hlg-600’s is what you’re running at 240v, shouldn’t be a problem.
Your gonna love this one here so I was mistaken on the 120v connection this is for the timers etc ther is no hook up for it bc it has to be hardwired into the breaker box but yes it does everything it says it will and thanks again for the help @dbrn32
That makes sense, it’s just a trigger receptacle.