Amnesia Haze Autoflower ~consolidated notes


Yes @FrikkinFrank you can harvest just the top, and let the rest finish. Just like picking a ripe fruit from the tree, you can let the others ripen. Lots of growers do this.
I personally chop the whole thing though.


Since the base strain is a landrace cross-bred with some of the best strains I ever tried (Hawaiian, Jamaican, etc…) it would be interesting to see just how long it CAN live. But if the whole plant is not hung upside down to dry, would that make a difference?

I’m also thinking of adding some hardwood ashes to it for potash in the flower phase

I just realized something else too, I should have the lights OFF from noon to 6PM, and ON from sunset to the following noon. That way I don’t have a strange light in a bathroom that supposedly is not used if someone drops by.


Those sativa dominant plants do typically have a longer flower time. What is the name of the strain do you know? I have an interest in the landrace strains pure sativa section. I intend to grow some myself and I would love to follow along.
If you chop the parts that are ready, just hang it by the stem, it’s almost the same thing. @FrikkinFrank


As above, it’s Amnesia Haze from ILGM. The strains they blended are listed in the seed description for it in the seed shop here.

I keep thinking about an image I saw somewhere around here of a huge bush of an old plant on somebodies patio. and I think it was in an article about trimming and training our plants


Gosh, sorry I missed that in the title @FrikkinFrank haha. More coffee.


Not my write up but a good general reference @FrikkinFrank


A common question I see is when to switch autos from veg to bloom. Many people are under the impression that as soon as they see the first flowers it’s time to switch. Perhaps a little explanation of the life cycle of autos will help to clarify this.

Weeks 1 - 3. Once you’ve started your seeds and they break the surface of the soil, they are in their seedling stage. The first set of leaves to appear will usually single fingered, followed by a second set that may still be single fingered or perhaps 3 fingered. Once that second set appears growth will start to accelerate as the new leaves provide more photosynthesis. This process will continue, more new leaves, faster growth. Depending on the type of soil in use, mild vegetative nutes can be introduced at week 2. By week 3 most plants will start to show their sex. Males will start to produce pollen sacks and females will display pistils.

Weeks 4 - 6. The plants are now entering a pre flowering stage. During this time the plants should exhibit explosive growth, often as much as a new set of nodes and 1" vertical growth a day. This is the time when they will gain most of their vertical height. Many people make the mistake of switching from vegetative to flowering nutrients at this point, assuming that since they see flowers it must be the proper time. This is incorrect. If the switch to flowering nutes is made at this time the vertical growth will stop and the plant will put it’s energy into producing buds. If you need to keep your plants small, or want them to finish earlier, they by all means switch nutes at this point. But if you want to get the most out of your plants continue feeding vegetative nutes until you see the vertical growth slow and stop. Depending on the strain that will usually be sometime during week 5 or 6.

Weeks 7 - 9. By now vertical growth has stopped and the switch to flowering nutrients has been made. The buds will start to fill out and put on weight, becoming hard and tight. Pistols will start to change from white to brown, orange, red, etc. By now the plants will also have developed a strong smell. Toward the end of this phase the large primary and smaller secondary fan leaves will begin to turn yellow. This is an indication that the plant is moving toward the end of it’s life.

Weeks 10 - 11. At this time flowering nutes should be discontinued and only plain pHed water fed to flush the remaining nutrients from the soil and improve the taste. Yellowing of the fan leaves will continue as the plant draws the stored energy from them. Eventually they will die and fall off. By the time that the smaller leaves that come from out of the buds will also start to turn yellow. Then it’s time to harvest.

I know that many of you are thinking that the seed bank said the plants will finish in 8-9 weeks, so why are you saying they take 10-11? The claims made by the seed banks are somewhat deceptive. If you switch to flowering nutes at week 3 or 4 the plants can finish in the times the seed banks say but they will remain small and not reach their full potential yield. Years of growing by myself and others has shown that autos do best if you follow this time line.

Of course, there will always be variations depending on the strain, the environment, nutrients, etc. This information is meant to only serve as a general guideline.

Bubbleheads first grow
Feeding Schedule for Autos
First recreational grow but not the first grow

I’ve been gradually (3 hours at a time) sliding the timer backwards, so that the plant has 15 hours of light instead of 18 for the time being. But it will help the temperature situation a lot to sort of “NIGHT GROW” the plants. This should also help reduce the chance of anyone noticing anything if they drop by.

Not even my closest friends know anything about my little hobby. :alien:

I wonder how much wood ash is safe to add to the planter without overdoing it?


I’m not sure either. Don’t use the charcoal bits I know that. Ash is also I think alkaline. Use with caution.


PH is likely to be the main thing to make the decision. Add a bit, check PH, add if I can…

Not sure how many weeks it has been going. It is definitely speeding up and stands 14 inches as of yesterday so it needs between 8 to 19 (if it gets that tall before blooming I’ll be impressed) inches before it may slow down and be ready to bud. I thought it was at least 6 weeks though and that fits the timeline above, which is super informative BTW - whoever wrote that I owe you a bud!

No sign of pistils quite yet, or I don’t see and recognize them - there are some pointy looking bits here and there.

All of this got me thinking about the best way to deliver light to the entire plant too - so I decided to try “Side Lighting” and set it up so that all the way up and down both sides the meter reads 2000

The two cross-connected cables are at 22", AH is said to get from 22 to 33 inches tall in the veg stage - and 33 is just below the power cord that goes across.

  • In this view the 1500W is on the left, 1200W is to the right

  • If needed, the cross cables can be extended or each array can be lifted an inch or so at a time to follow the top

  • I’m not going to top it, I attempted “FIMMING” it tonight and we’ll see how that goes

Now HERE’s another oddball question from me:
In all of this, again and again we read -
“You may be able to get a weak buzz from the leaves, but the buds are the focus of the whole effort”

  • that worked on my first grow, and I was surprised at how potent they were.

“Topping and trimming can train a plant to make it more productive”

  • To an extent - though FIMMING and Low-Stress training is what I am convinced is best

“Removing dried or yellowing leaves prevents them from slowing the plant down”

But HERE is the part that I recently dialed in on, from the ABOVE:

" Yellowing of the fan leaves will continue as the plant draws the stored energy from them. Eventually they will die and fall off."

and even more interestingly:
“At this time flowering nutes should be discontinued and only plain pHed water fed to flush the remaining nutrients from the soil and improve the taste.”

Which kind of tells me the plants need the contents of the leaves during Bud formation as a source of ‘stored energy and nutrients’ that carries them to the end of the life cycle…

In other words - leave 'em alone until they fall off by themselves


PS: I also wonder why “Miracle Grow” is a bad thing to use


Yep leave them alone.
Miracle grow contains slow release fertilizer that can really mess with cannabis during the flowering cycle of its life. Too much nitrogen and you end up with reduced yields. When you do a flush, it releases MORE nitrogen, then you have nitrogen toxicity and leaf clawing, and this contributes to severe reduced yields. This is just a few of the many issues that occurs when using Miracle NO. @FrikkinFrank


What’s an easy to come by ‘Fast Release’ nitrogen source that can be easily flushed?


  • No buds starting quite yet, but it was jumping an inch per day before the fimming. She’s nearly at 17" now (43cm)

Uh oh - I’m not sure if the nutes in “STA-GREEN” can be leached/flushed. That’s the basic soil I used right out of the bag…

I also have her in a SIX gallon instead of a five gallon container, because the five gallon “FAB-BAGS” were too small for my first grow :eyes:


If your soil has slow release fertilizer I would highly suggest to transplant to a different soil. @FrikkinFrank


The bottom first leaves were yellowing so I picked them and smoked them
~ The very first 2, one on each side after the round seed leaves, the first true ones

It hit me in like 45 seconds, I luv the feel of this, it is amazing!

It may have been a fluke - or because they had already converted all chlorophyl in themselves. Greener leaves I tested are not as potent (barely started to yellow). I trimmed two or three to see if it was anything like constant

UPDATE: Basic rule (for me) on picking leaves is this -

If a yellowed leaf FALLS OFF with a mere touch, the plant no longer needs it, so go ahead.

If there is any resistance at all to pulling it off, leave it alone no matter what it looks like.

The reason being that it (your plant) needs to finish scavenging whatever it has to before dropping it naturally


A recent pic:

This illustrates the tie-down method I am using as a non-invasive training technique.

I meant to post it in this thread, but I have also been looking into how to make my own “Potash Fertilizer” the old fashioned way using common hardwood ashes left over from disposing of a pile of downed maple wood that is just laying around here. For EXACT details on that, it would be best for you to look up “How to Make Potash Fertilizer” online, there are many respected sources of information on that out there, and for me to re-write what experts have already documented about it would be wasteful and most likely inaccurate.

Potash (potassium Chloride) it turns out is very water soluable and can both be easily separated from wood ashes using a simple process - it can also be flushed out if it has to be because it IS water soluable

The plant is just over 20 inches tall now, accellerating now that it is past being “FIMM’d”, and I noticed recently that it is beginning to develop the strong smell that will be pretty intense once it does BUD…

There are more pics of it in the thread “Re-Trim a FIMM?”

  • NOTE that the stems are a reddish purple that I am hoping is genetic


Well peoples - I have tested the “Potash Trick” using an empty plastic bottle of about 3 liters.

STEPS I followed:

  1. I took some wood ash, and ran it through a wire mesh strainer to get rid of anything over a fine ash powder
  2. I filled the bottle a bit over a third with the ash powder, and topped it up with hot water from the sink
  3. I left the bottle in full sun like I would to make Sun Tea, shaking it up a few times during the afternoon
  4. Once I left it alone for a few hours it did turn very light but not completely clear with all the ash settled to the bottom
  5. I tested it WITH A PH METER to see what the specific Ph was, and it turned out to be slightly ALKALINE (!)

~ That totally surprised me, as I was expecting ACIDITY - but lo and behold the meter deflected very slightly in the opposite direction. So this is telling me I need have no fear of raising the acid level in the soil at all!

The actual PH reads 8 - where 8 is alkaline, and less than 7 is acidic. Average house plants (pot varies, depending on hydro or soil culture) require around 6.5

The acid content must be in the ash that settled out into the bottom, so at this point I plan to add some of it (the clear fluid) to tomorrows liter and a half of water that the plant seems to need every day (which seemed to be a bit much, but I also confirmed with the meter) once I have carefully poured off the clear fluid into another container.

  • I also read something about ash and something else causing carbon dioxide gas to be released, in other words wood ash just might be useful to create a CO2 generator in addition. I’m off online to find where and what I read about that, and how much Potash Fluid I should add to each plant so I don’t overdo it.

For now I splashed in about a cup or two of the stuff and THAT’S IT for at least 3 weeks or until I see what happens

And this is coming RIGHT ON TIME! I positively identified the beginnings of pistils at the tips of some of the branches.

On Phosphorus, I need to remember to grab some bone meal (not to mention lime, which is for a different reason) but for now Potato water from boiling potatoes, and egg shells run through a blender together is an adequate home remedy sort of a deal.

Another note on the light cycle:
Again and again I keep reading that the QUALITY of DARKNESS must be absolute during the lights out period, regardless if it is six hours or twelve, so that is another small point of attention that i am taking very seriously

I hope this posts, I just spotted this chart in a different topic here:

My soil right now is reading about 6.5 to 7


Great analysis @FrikkinFrank

That note about darkness quality is why I prefer to grow auto’s indoors. My tent is on the side of the basement with laundry facilities and I can’t ask my better half to stay out of there during normal awake hours and tents are far from “light proof.” Photo plants def should not have exposure to normal room light in any fashion during lights out and that’s a tough standard if you grow in a common area like me.


An excellent close up of one of the branch tips (pics of the early cola formation focused past where I was aiming :face_with_monocle: so they didn’t turn out right).

The nice thing about a camera that can do fine “MACRO” shots (why they call it that I dunno - it’s more of a “MICRO”, but whatever…) is that you can end up with a large and detailed image that doesn’t quiver as you look at it, unlike using a ‘Loop’ or a 420 Scope.

If you click on the image to bring it to full size you can even see a light amount of trichome dusting here and there looking like small white spots on the leaves & stems, and the beginning of pistil formation.

TIP: Click twice to display full screen

This is the end of a branch from the eighth ‘lobe’, about half the way up the plant. The top was about one day behind but is doing the same. You can clearly see some pistils starting to come out, and they in particular display a dusting of trichomes forming

Full size here = 1920 X 1080 pixels if you wanted to use it for a desktop wallpaper

From here right the way onward I expect the trichomes are going to get thicker and juicier, like a snow storm…

I consider this Day Two of flowering phase, so a lot more is going to develop over the next 5 weeks.

~ But she is now officially a “Pistil Packin’ Mama” :two_hearts:

ONCE AGAIN proof that when Robert says seeds are FEMINIZED - you can be sure they are! I’ve never known a FEM seed from ILGM to be anything else.



(Amnesia Haze Autoflower/Feminized)

I see now the the FIMM attempt was too late, looking at my girl and counting the branch lobes from the bottom to the top -

The LAST LOBE (branching point) where the branches come out in PAIRS (one on each side) is the NINTH one up. After that, this plant will send out ONE branch at a time, growing in a sort of “spiral”.

If not topped or fimmed before the tenth lobe begins to form, it will not affect PAIRS of stems coming out.

For this reason I would say top or fimm absolutely NO LATER THAN when the eighth or seventh fan leaves are forming, preferably seventh for a FIMM in order to get the FOUR STEM result that is ideal.

  • Counting the main branches/fan leaves in this way is far more accurate than going by the calendar


New pics taken on August 14, 2018


Branch Tip:

Light adjusted with graphics utility. These buds actually began to form into little cotton balls about a week ago, maybe a day or two less. The leaves are not actually yellow, but color correction can only do so much

~make nice desktop backgrounds don’t they? (broad hint)


22 August

Compact, 36" tall plant with buds all over it

~One thing is for sure, it is very space conservative. If you don’t have a very large grow space, Amnesia Haze could be ideal for you.

If my calculations are right, this is either an eleven or twelve week old plant right now
I’m figuring from June 7th or 14th, one of the two. 1st pic looks like 3 weeks old to me