Germinated all 3 easy peasy. Seedlings popped quickly.
Watered each (as example 3oz H2O til H2O leaked out bottom of 3 gal Spring Pots 1st week) until switch to liquid fertilizer schedule mentioned below.
Started with cheap lights. No fan 1st week.
No tent 1st month.
Using Happy Frog Ocean Forest & Schedule for Big Bloom, Grow Big & Tiger Grow liquid fertilizers.
After 1st month: LED full spectrum grow lights, fan blowing in only at tent bottom - 2âx2âx6â tent. Temp ~ 75°.
When harvested: only Amnesia had great roots - that was closest to fan located outside tent blowing in thru screen. Blueberry 25% of Amnesia, Northern 25% of Blueberry.
QUESTIONS:
No fan inside tent = week roots & limited plant growth?
Ignored lightening schedule 12/12 after flowering cuz itâs seems lights donât matter on autoflower?
I would qualify that to saying duration does not matter provided they receive adequate quality and intensity of light. You can run a crappy light for 24hrs and produce crappy buds. A quality light (both spectrum and PPFD) can be run shorter periods while still producing adequate DLI to produce quality buds.
Root growth can be affected by watering practices, type of pot, and numerous other variables e.g. air movement.
Do you recommend how much watering? Like X ounces per day during Y amount of weeks?
My working theory is the roots didnât get enough oxygen the 1st month.
Lights - so they do matter on autoflower?
(I followed 18/6 then 12/12 carefully until 3rd week of flowering when I left them on 24/7. I got impression lighting didnât matter but ⊠)
This unfortunately is a moving target that only you will be able to answer. Basically; once plant is the same diameter as the pot itâs in will you water until runoff. Allow pot to dry out almost to the plant wilting and use the âpot liftâ method to see. Then water again to runoff.
If in FF soil you do not want to supplement unless soil is depleted. The only real way to determine this is with a decent PH and TDS meter to monitor the runoff.
Light is the engine that drives all processes. Inadequate light will deliver a sickly plant with long node spacing and loose, airy flower. There are all kinds of metrics for determining this but you are looking for a DLI (Daily Light Integral) of around 40 ”mol/joule/m2 up to 60 in flower. Buying a decent light (NOT on Amazon) should supply data with the light to help you set it up properly.
If light is weak, with autofowers increase the light duration. If light is strong, shorter duration is fine and after a certain point plant canât access additional light. But you gotta have enough.
See what i do is i use beneficial bacteria when i plant the seedling and i always have a fan on low blowing air around the tent and after a week or so i feed 1.5 mls of seasol power feed in two ltrs of water which last me for a week or so i have my light at 50-60% and i have mine up fairly high above my seedlings i use a humidifier i keep the humidity up to 70-80% and i always get healthy root system goin but thats what works for me
I use fabric pots i use a five gallon fabric pot i always end up with a big healthy root system and a nice thick stem and branches i use white rhino from nimbin nutrients Australia it is a good bacteria and something else ive had nothing but good results with nimbin nutrients ,with my grow now in flower i use the phat bud powder in the first four weeks and then i will use bud powder and k bud hardner for the last three to four weeks of flower .
Even though im giving my plant these powdered nutrients and the k bud hardner is a liquid my plant still is feeding on all natural organic nutrients which are in the pot
Is there something you want to ask me or do u need help with something just ask me and if i can help you i will be happy to advise u in anyway possible
I was just curious - in my original 2 questions - if no wind/fan at beginning probably messed up roots ⊠and strong lighting following the 18/6 then 12/12 schedule mattered for autoflower.
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wow
