Nice job @MAXHeadRoom looking forward to the pics. The gold leaf is a popular grower right now!
So here is the whole experiment and results
Purpose- To see if the addition of Monoammonium Phosphate (MAP) would stabilize the fluctuation of PH in a hydroponics system.
Calibrated PH meter before test
Started with one gallon of distilled water
Added 1/8 teaspoon of Map
Added 1ml of cal/mag
Added Nutes (Dutch Masters Gold)
My goal for PPM was 400
Added nutes DMG
So this was close to my PPM goal so I let the solution set for 24 HRS. After 24 HRS
So from this I knew there was no chemical reaction in the mixture to raise the PH
6-2 Changed water in my aeroponics system and added the 1 gallon mixture
6-3 AM checks
Adjusted PH with Phosphoric Acid (PH down) to 5.8
At this point I thought the experiment was a failure. So I added an additional 1/8 teaspoon of MAP to see what would happen.
6-3 PM checks
Adjusted with PH down to 5.4 and added 1/8 teaspoon of MAP
6-4 AM checks
Adjusted to PH 5.5 added 1/8 tsp MAP
6-4 PM checks
6-5 AM checks
6-5 PM checks
So I ended up adding 1/2 tsp of MAP total to stabilize the PH in my areoponics system.
In conclusion the addition of MAP seems to stabilize the PH levels in a Hydro solution but also increases your PPM levels. So reducing the amount of nutes to adjust your desired PPM level is necessary
Awesome stuff… genuinely. Now my only question is where can I buy it!
I bought mine at the local grow store. It comes in powder form.
Of course with your system you will have to add more
At today’s AM checks PH was 6.1 so I added another 1/8 tsp of MAP and that reduced my PH to 5.9 but the PPM went to 650
Let me know how it turns out
Interesting I would be more concerned that ph is being stablized at the expense of N-P being added disproportionately to my system which can create a toxicity? Though what I can conclude from results is about what is frequently observed with many systems that the higher the ppm is the more resistant it is to change this same result can be gained using silicate or tap water verses distilled RO.
Running Maxi series I get a quite stable ph if my ppm is close to or more than 600ppm after a 48hr period (time for water temp to adjust and any residual nutrients in lecca to interact) 10-5-15 for Grow and 5-15-14 Bloom Calcium (ammonium nitrate 30 - 60%) being the primary buffer and product having a ph of 5.8 un-mixed
I was also concerned about adding that much P to my system. Please read post 52 in this thread. That is the reason I tried this. This is a one week experiment as I will be changing the water on Friday. A couple of weeks ago my PPM was 500 and the plants didn’t seem to like that, so I reduce them to 300. But now I think they may be able to take 600 now that they bigger. I will try that next and report results. Thanks Donald
@MAXHeadRoom as you ask for me to post hear so people here can see on my soil grow is doing, ill link to the latest post below.
Back ground info the post was 31 days from planting, Afghan strain, grown under a single 35w Cfl and transferred into a tent with 5 the day of photos. Which was yesterday.
It do like the idea mentioned be Tad Ka, a donation target show in percentage, if the costs have been covered that month.
I don’t mind paying, but as some have mentioned above, it would be the beginning of the end. People will slide away, and take up would be next to zero going forward.
Hope this works!
Well its been one month since this journey began. It seems like its been longer. Heres the updated pics from today.
First is LIL Bertha and Lucy. Two plants that a month ago I didnt think they where going to make it, and look at them now. They got Fimmed and are doing well. Very green and getting bushy.
Next up is Laverne and Shirley. These are the comparison dirt grow girls. They where Fimmed and started LST this week. Both are very green and healthy. Lots of new growth underneath
Last but not least is the aeroponics girls Thelma and Louise. They got fimmed this week and also started LST
I had a little scare this week when my roots started turning brown and my PH meter went out of calibration. I had used up all my calibration solution and when I finally got some my meter was off by 1.3 to the high side. So the PH in my system was down to 4.4 without me realizing it. All has been corrected and there doesnt seem to be any damage to the plants.
I would also like to thank DonaldJ for his suggestion on stabilizing the PH in my system. Since the water change on Friday and rising my PPM levels to 600 the PH has stayed at 5.6 with no adjustment for 2 days now. Thanks again Donald.
I had to add the 4 misters back into the system that I removed earlier because the roots where all starting to grow to the center. I have been weaving the roots in the chicken wire to create 360 degree coverage. I use to only do it once a week but now its a daily job. They are drinking about a half gallon every few days so I have to start watching that too.
If there is anything I can do to get these white again give me a shout out. I was thinking hydrogen peroxide but Im not sure.
Looking great man
Good stuff, they naturally get stained And are fine to my knowledge. If they ever feel slime (like mine are) then be worried
Peroxide will only help so much with staining it is fairly natural with many product lines which have dies and organics that colour them. Monitor your ppm if it stays fairly constant with water drop you have it set about perfect rises it’s still slightly strong drops it has room to be raised. you want them eating at or close to same rate as they drink if they aren’t it’s wasted nutrients or wasted potential
That is great info @Donaldj I had read that before, probably from you, on another post awhile ago.
So let me clarify
Water level drops PPM stays the same PERFECT
Water level drops PPM rises to much NUTES
Water level drops PPM falls not enough NUTES
So since water change on Friday here is my values
6-9 PM PH 5.6 PPM 631
6-10 AM PH 5.6 PPM 633
PM PH 5.6 PPM 639
6-11 AM PH 5.5 PPM 636
PM PH 5.6 PPM 639
6-12 AM PH 5.6 PPM 633 Added 1/4 gallon water
So this system looks pretty stable right now. It is so nice to have the expertise of all you people here in this forum. Thanks again Donald , YOU THE MAN!!!
Now that the system is stable do you think I should raise my PH to 5.8 or just leave it where its at?
Might wanna raise it to 5.8 but wait for donaldj to respond
To raise ph simply add a silicate it would bump ppm a bit but will also help thicken plant structure a multi task add in of opertunity staying close to 5.8 is the goal but I do let ph drift a few points so it isn’t an emergency if it is at 5.7 for few days the range is 5.5-6.2 so a slight drift in this range is ok. I actually use this drift to get plants to behave differently the roots tend to love lower range and leafs tend to love higher It is the nutrients more readily avail in the ranges that can be manipulated
They are custom made for your needs and foot print. What were you thinking of getting?
I would like the light to cover a 4 x 4 area for bloom. My SCROG for this grow is 30" x 36" I plan on going into bloom around the 1st week in July so time is a factor. My budget is under $400. I know that may be a problem because I have been investigating these COBs and I know the components can be around $100 per COB
So what chips are you using cree 3590, Vero 29 etc?
Are you using Meanwell drivers?
What type heat sinks
Hopefully we can make something that will work.
One of my biggest fears is having a successful grow and not getting the desired yields because of poor lighting
Thanks for your help-Max
Don’t you have like 6 LEDs of various watts? I feel like that should give you a good yield. Even if they are cheapos that don’t give out a good true wattage with all of them you gotta have around the 75 watt per sqft I would think
I mean if you want to buy another light n u have the bread do it up, but me, I wouldn’t put too much money in to my first few grows. I’d rather upgrade over time. But then again I don’t have a bunch of disposable income.