A few questions i have been accumulating

So, i have a few questions for anyone who has an answer and time to spare :pray::pray::pray::grin::grin::grin:

Will a longer veg time result in bigger yields using the same lights?

What’s the most efficient method for LST? Sog, scrog, manifold, etc

What’s the best ppm meter for less money on Amazon?

Ideas for a light trap for the tent’s low 8" intakes that don’t use much space?

What’s better : 2x 135 Rspec kits vs 1 320xl kit from hlg for a 4x4x6.7?
Any idea for a diy light for a 4x4 under 500 usd?
Will 2x Californialightworks Solarxtreme 250 worth it?

Suggestions/links for rotative fans designed for grow tents?

Diy solution to keep walls from the tent to get sucked too much to the inside?

Air pots or Smart pots?

Better off with coco only?
Coco+Perlite?
Coco+soil+perlite in layers?

Is boiling tap water enough to prepare the water for the plants?

How do you recover a severely root bound clone that’s still in veg to prepare it for flowering besides giving it more room?

And many more to come :grin::grin:

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Ask away my friend!! Soak up as much knowledge as you can here!

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That’s a bunch of questions …lol bit this is the place to ask. Many of those have pros and cons and growers make those decisions on their environment and commitment. Longer veg time is always bigger plants. Again do you have the time & room. I have great results with ScRoG but gutta start somewhere. Lol hurricane makes good oscillating fans… fur a beginner those yellow pH pen and tds duo do the job but you get what you pay for…until you can afford and justify a Apera… that’s a start… coco w perlite is a choice if many…I’m still a dirt guy. Fabric post are great. Remember these are my opinions, everyone will have different thoughts… that’s a start… LoL

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I dont boil my water just pH it and check ppm. I’m not hydro though and your situation may require it if something is off w your city water. I haven’t heard of many people doing that though. And yes bigger pot for rootbound is the cure…

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Thanks for the replies!
Yeah, im actually expecting a bunch of different opinions on those questions, and try to figure out what would work best for me
There’s nothing like experience to learn from, and this is a great place to ask for it!
I love this place so much :v:

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I have been boiling water for months now, just because i want to get rid quickly of chlorine in the water…
The water here is supposed to be good, it is about 7.2 ph after boiling it.
I drink a lot of that water without boiling it though, i only do it for the plants.
I don’t have like a big, clean container to prepare water for days, so i just boil some in the morning and let it sit and cool off completely to give it to the plants at night…

And i really need to get myself a good enough ppm meter for the next grow

Ya I’d be so curious to know what the ppm are b4 n after boiling it. AND LOL. just the other day I had a discussion about how to get rid of chlorine in city water which all hydro guys run airstones in 5 gallon buckets for couple days to dissipate chlorine

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I am curious about boiling too. My instinct tells me ppm would go up. If your boiling water your losing water, in the form of steam, which would leave what’s in the pan more concentrated. Like sauce reduction.

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Mind blown…:exploding_head::exploding_head::exploding_head: Randy with the brains…man!!! This could be true.i totally see logic

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I try to have it boiling at the lowest possible temperature, and as soon as i see full bubbling boiling water i turn it off… I try to lose almost nothing of water by evaporation, but maybe you are right about getting more “dense” after boiling…
If boiling the water eliminates chlorine by evaporation, wouldn’t that be less particles(chlorine) after boiling it though? :thinking::thinking::thinking:

I just quick-googled it, and apparently it depends on what kind of particles are with the water…
If they are more volatile than the water,like chlorine, it will be less ppm after boiling, as they will be on a higher percentage of the steam.
If they are lower volatility than water, like salt, then the more you boil it, the more ppm will remain…
I just got extremely curious about the ppm of my tap water…

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Not sure dmd. When you boil some of the solids are removed with the evaporation. I guess it would depend on the mass of each different particle. Ppm is checking for solids in the water based on EC, maybe @LoCoRock could explain that better. I don’t think it discriminates on what that solid is. So, in theory of course, you may be removing chlorine but concentrating other chemicals and minerals in the water

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If you go to your water Dept and ask for a water breakdown they will give you their results for their required tests.

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That makes sense… I learnt about removing chlorine by boiling water when i was a kid breeding tropical fish, and i have used that forever without thinking about it

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My tap comes out at like 7.2 but I can guarantee you air pump with airstones is the most common way the hydro guys eliminate chlorine…let’s ask a professional?? @blackthumbbetty was just talking about this maybe he knows if boiling works as well or @peachfuzz

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I’ll probably add an airstone and a pump to the next grow list of stuff to get

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And the never ending list begins… LoL

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I used to breed jack Dempsey, green meanies and electric blue acaras. I love cichlids.

I’ma gourami, catfish, docille tank kinda guy…Sharon my kissing gourami is 8 yrs old.

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If i could, i would just buy a mountain around here to grow weed and be away from the city, lol

But to be honest, around January, i was convinced that i could set up a killer indoor grow tent with under 300 usd :grin::grin::grin::rofl::rofl::rofl:

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