90 degrees up curl

So I’ve been growing this plants for almost 4 weeks. Weather started to be about 28 celsius day, balcony oriented on East, sun from 7:30-15:00. Did a polyethylene foliage from outside. Having 10 cm space without foil so there s constant air change.

I was about a day late with watering as I have put white orca under plants and there were no signs of wilting. Pots were light this morning and saw this curling so I gave them drink. Watered 5 days ago till runoff. Today Giving about 2 litres of water with 1 ml of bac bio grow nutrients per liter. ( 0.8 ml started week ago) Growing in white 20 l (5 gal) pots with organic soil, light mix from biobizz.

Yesterday before evening I did anti caterpillar treatment with BTK 24%, 1ml per 50 ml water.

Today morning they had that 90.degrees up tops of leaves and they drying out now. I put away that orca foil as it was kinda hot and wondered if it wasnt suffocating them as it cover top soil and I’m having classic pots. After that I watered as told above.

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And also should tell that Ph of water with nutrients were 6.8. Runoff water was 4.5. I’ve been told its normal with soil as the organics oxidating and getting ph lower. But still to me it’s kinda too much low. Waiting for my ppm meter.

Runoff shouldn’t be 4.5. Something is off. Do you also have PPM of feed and runoff?

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Waiting for delivery. At grow shop he told me this regarding soil. Last time while I was watering more frequently, run off was ph 5.5. That’s why I’m wondering if letting it dry to much won’t cause too low ph. Science tells yes, there are various articles regarding this. Ms like to know the scale regarding what is alright and what is not. Organic soil grow should be more friendly with this kind of stress… Will update the ppm once kit arrive, keeping the run off water for testing.

Btw. Yesterday they were beautiful, changes in their environment was that anticatterpie spray (maybe it chilled the leaves to much), and orca foil (suffocation, it was hot also). That’s it.

Most foliar sprays are not to be used during day or lights on.

In your case, plant got too much of something…last 24 hrs…and it’s suffering.
Suggest you consider flushing to reduce further leaf burn.

So I’ve been testing ppm in - 331, ppm of water 135, ppm of runoff 2221. I’ve been told that runoff water shouldn’t be from dirty tray (mine was) and also it should be the first water coming out. Mine was there for 1 hour. I guess this sample was not ok.

Thinking of it, it could be that anti catterpilar spray as droplets collecting at tips of the leaves? Too much concentration?

Yeah, I should had wait with spraing till sun is down, I’ve probably underestimated the light reflected from surrounding building causing burn through droplets of spray.

runoff of 2221??? dun thin so

TDS(PPM) is total dissolved solids, so if it’s taken from a dirty tray it could be wrong. In any case your feeding water with very low ionic strength into soil with very high ionic strength. You will have a hard time changing the soil pH with water. If pH 4.5 is real you will lock out nutrients. In order for this to occur you will need to feed or amend the soil with higher pH nutes or buffers such as Dolomites lime preferably at the or just slightly above the desired pH.

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Have done another tests, took the soil (from bag, not used)runned 1\10 of its volume with water and collected water. PPM 1771. Did the same with soil from pots 1776. Al of you are organic soil growers and having 1000ppm? So basically the soil is too much saturated? And folks saying its best soil arround this biobizz

I only know well defined chemicals. Need to refer you to our resident soil expert @garrigan62

Afraid of consequences of high PPM in my soil. I’ve flushed the girls. After that I studied, studied a lot, regarding biodegradation of materials, envirnmental individualism etc.

Internet is huge regarding cannabis +ppm/ph. It’s specialised field which is very very important for coco, hydro, not that much for soil growers.

Full organic grow is for ppm and outer ph really in shade, like having a gardener. PPM in my soil should be still raising while plants are not stretching. Nutrients are just being made in on itself… Many new habitants will come which will also die and give some nutrients. They are interacting and balancing environment to various degree. Those nutrients are not that FAST available as with liquid organics but can’t burn. You can combine and enhace growth. Ph in soil fluctuating and its alright. Wait for plants get bigger and your ppm will be eaten as with organic grow there is not that much salts. Drastic ph drift is not optimal though.
As I live near the sea, there was salt blowed to my plants. So flush them, when I have some organic fertilizer is not that bad idea as a prevention.

I second the Dolomite Lime. It’s an alkaline substance that buffers an acidic soil to a neutral 7.

Humic acids also work great as a soil ph buffer.

Dolomites is powerful stuff. Needs to be at the appropriate pH before you put it through your soil though. Not just added dry.

@WickedAle How do you recommend applying it? I’ve always just mixed all my organic ingredients together and feed 1-2 tbs at a time when they need it.

And what is the ph of dolomite? I was under the assumption it was a neutral 7 or slightly alkaline.

Mix it up to recommended strength and pH to appropriate pH. I don’t work with Dolomites since use organics. I prefer well defined chemicals.

There are not many active users from soil field. I am much wiser now. Dolomite lime should be used only if your are missing calcium and magnessium as the ratio of 2;1 and you need 1:7 - 1:10. Otherwise your can get magnessium abundance much more harmful. You are not supposed to use dolomite lime based on tray water ph if you don’t know what’s the level of magnesium and calcium in your soil.

In my case it would be totally bad as my ppm was showing 2400. Could be a lot of both substances there. Now, after flush I got more controlled environment but less natural balance processes. Based on my water source Ppm 130 I can guess it lack some calcium needed for my plants. I have also some orange spots which can signal calcium defficency. If my ppm from tray will be alright and ph too low, I can use dolomite lime, but very carefully. As I’ve already written, ph of soil kinda fluctuate in wet-dry processes. If you are water when only bout half inch of upper soil is dry, than soil is still wet enough to have desirable ph. If you are letting your pots dry a lot, ph will be low.

It is very sitiational approach field this PH judgement and we need to know all the processes behind to get conclusion.

I will probably try will defined growing instead of this to compare.