One up, three to go
4th grow, ILGM fems Maui Wowie/Gold Leaf/Cali Dream/Chronic Widow three-stage perpetual grow attempt, indoor, soilless
Updates for the week:
Here’s a pic of the 3 gold leafs that have sprouted. My streak is at risk as one hasn’t popped out. In my impatience, I spread the soil out to look for the seed and couldn’t locate it - so either its in there an I couldn’t see it, and maybe there is hope, or I somehow fumbled the transfer from the soak to the cup, which would be a bummer.
For the Maui Wowies - I transplanted them into 10 gallon fabric pots in roots organics. I am interesting in seeing if they can fill out the 10 gallon pots over hte next ten weeks, or if its overkill. I’ve mostly used 5 gallon fabric pots on my first three grow.
I also reinstalled new mylar and started foliar spray per the ILGM fert guidelines. Next Sunday, I will flip them over to 12/12 and I will install the scrog screen. It will be my first scrog.
@Sixpackdad since you are flipping to 12/12 next week, we’re on about the same schedule. I just didn’t think mine has been growing long enough to flip yet. Is there a benefit to flipping now rather than wait a while longer?
I think some folks extend their veg cycle a bit when they are topping, LSTing, scrogging, and other more aggressive/training type stuff. It also gets you a taller plant with more nodes. The veg phase is also a good time for the plant to recover from those stresses, as opposed to the stretch/early-flowering stage.
In my particular circumstance, I need them out by early January so I can transition my gold leafs in there. It is also six plants in a relatively small space of 33x46x80", so I don’t want them to get too much bigger. With the transplant over the weekend, I figure I’d give them one more week of veg to get estalbihed, too. I am also starting to rethink scrogging them and maybe just going with a lollipop or sea of green concept - it’s getting crowded.
I have heard that the earliest one should trigger to flower would be when your plant is starting to show pre-flower pistil, which is usually a little after week four. My plants has had them for about a week.
Here’s some updated pics and some concerns. @raustin
These are the 3 gold leafs. They look ok, but not great. They are about an inch tall and not stretching, which is good, but the first true leaves don’t look super healthy - minor discoloration on two and one is a little wrinkly. They have been watered by a mister at 6.5ph mostly, and I pour a little bit in if the cup feels light… They are in miracle gro indoor potting mix, which is peat moss, coco, perlite, and fertilizer. This is technically a soilless media, maybe? Maybe I should drop the pH and water more frequently to runoff?
Here’s the Maui Wowies. Overall they look good. But I did notice some discoloration on four leaves on three different plants, maybe a mag issue, something else?. They all seem to be from the 5th node of the plant. Maybe it’s just old issues showing up. Maybe not. I am watering tomorrow and will check the runoff ppms, which were 600-1100 last time I checked. They also got transplanted last weekend, so maybe just a little stress showing itself.
The seedlings are getting nute burn from that Miracle Grow soil. Every time you water that soil you’re giving them a dose of nutes, this is why wer tell people not to use MG soil.
Your big girls look like they are getting a magnesium deficiency. If your Ph is good, then give them some Epsom salts, or Cal Mag.
On the MW’s, the pH going in is 5.8 and coming out is about 5.9 to 6.3. I got some epsom salts floating around and will go that route.
I ran about a liter of ~6.25pH water through each gold leaf. pH and ppms of runoff were 5.8 to 5.9 and 500-600 ppms. At mid-flow, ppms were over 1300. Perhaps, I’ll water to runoff for the time being and run the risk of overwatering, rather than watering a teeny tiny bit/misting, during which the time release ferts build-up excessively.
Your Ph is a little low for soil. You need to get it up to 6.3 minimum.
If the medium is just peat moss (2/3 of total), coco, perlite, time-release ferts, and a wetting agent, doesn’t that make it “soilless”. Soil needs to have some sort of humus or vermicast as its majority to be a true soil? I went with 6.25 in because that’s what I see people who use pro-mix recommend, which is a similar make up sans the MG ferts.
I see, I use promix, but I keep my Ph at 6.5.
I worry that no matter your pH, you’ll keep getting burned. Supposed to be enough nutrients in it to last 6 months.
I’m on high alert. The MWs made it through. I will be transplanting them into coco next weekend. I could probably do it this weekend, but they are still a bit small. I’m going to water every other day to keep flushing out the ferts and keep a close eye for overwatering symptoms.
which promix? promix hp with mycorise?
If you’re still getting the brown spots and leaves turning brown try to up your nutes and see how that goes. I had the same problem because I had a little bit of miracle grow with pete moss perlite and cocoir. I let the mix go without any nutes for too long and I got brown spots. Then later after they went away they popped up again so I upped the nutes and the progression of the brown spots halted.
For the solo cups they are in a hot miracle grow potting mix, which I think is technically a soilless medium. Been pHing at 6.5 until yestetday.
When I transplant to bigger pots I am using coco based roots organics. I pH at 5.8. I’m going to up the nutres ( been using 1/4 strength) and add some Epsom salts tonight during my normal watering period.
Yes, Promix HP.
@raustin i ask because there seems to be many different types of promix hp. i thought u grow in ffof
I used to grow in ocean forest, but this current grow I switched to Promix and I’m never going back. I love this stuff, so much easier to keep proper Ph and to feed.