had a major issue last weekend … my 3 ladys got burned leafs because i left `em too close to the light … theyve are 40 days into seedling yet the grow got locked for like 4-5 days and they are back to growing again… alltho my question is … 40 days into seedling = is that going to be an issue?
How much room do you have for them to continue growing? What strain? (because strains vary in growth during flowering period) Generally, for sativa dominant strains, I give them 1/3 of the way to the lights before I hit the flowering button. Indica closer to half. If it’s an autoflower, the lights need to be far enough away for them to grow whatever height they’ll grow.
Theyr in a 1 gallon pots each one … lights is far enough not to harm them but help em grow(as i belive ofcourse) … they are not auto flower … i got the seeds of a friend , he didnt knew what strain rly was … what im worried about is , those 40 days on seedling YET is a real problem? and if so whats that going to be ? what to expect ? did i failed ?
They won’t flower until the light switches to 12 hours on and 12 hours off. Mine are in grow tents. I change the light when I want them to flower.
i need help i have 10 seedlings 9 orange kush and 1 white widow i’m in the 2nd week of seedling stage and just put them under 1000w mh is this to soon they have not grown hardly at all all the kush steams are real thin moved light down today to within 21/2 feet to see if this would help or are this all male widow looks good but not growing very fast looks like female my temp runs between 72 and 90 i’m i being to impatient ???
Ya just a little ok
1000 watts is a bit to much for seedlings. Item only useing a 300 watt florescent bulb for my seedlings.
Moving the light that close will not only dry them up it will burn them and stress them out.
I used the. Same thing never worked
Hope this helped
thanks for the help trying to get around buying a florescent set up for my seedling,They still look ok but still worried question when u buy seeds they say 68 to 70 days to harvest this can not be for real plants moving to slow in your opinion when should would u transplant this grow is my first can not wait to start another because i’ve learned so much will take your advice and get florescent on next grow p.s. i will slow my roll( ha ha ha) thanks for the help darryl54
If you can control the heat and keep it not so close to them you may be ok for now.
When they have 5 true sets of leaves that’s when you can transplant. Also no nutrients either just water.
Get yourself a nice T5 4 bulb lamp for vegetative stage. Then when plants get 9-12" tall; You can place them under a 1000 w lamp. Probably 3-4’ minimum
hey my fellow growers its me again need a little help.my first grow was a disaster all orange kush and white widow did’nt make it really piss me off. so i read a lot bad case of nutrition lock. so now really concentrating on my root zone. my question is, how do i get a strong root zone. do i get this with nutritions or just let it grow in the soil i bought i have some coco connoisseur which is a amended coco soil in this coco mix is earth worms casting,alaskan humus,feather,bone fish and kelp meal paramagnrtic rock lime stone and mycorrhizae also got super trive and some hygrozyme and a box of general organic grow box all of this is to have on hand for my ladies if needed so how do i develop a strong root zone with the stuff i have help!!! will be starting second grow in about 2 weeks here some pic of 2 plants i saved for a friend they were almost dead i just transplanted them some fox farm ocean forest thanks for the help
Keep the pH steady and at 6.5 in soil and keep the nutrient salts from building up too much in the soil, to develop a strong and healthy root zone that will stay healthy.
You need to know what is in the water you give to your plants. It should be adjusted to a pH of 6.5, and if it is really hard water, you are better off using R/O or distilled water. An EC of 0.1 or a TDS/PPM of 50 or higher and you probably have too many alkali minerals in your water and it will build up in your soil and throw off your pH over time, as well as contributing to nutrient/mineral salt lockout.
Also, starting your seedlings in a nutrient free soil or soil just for seedlings will help tremendously. Your little seedlings already have nutrients to support them selves until they have say around 4-6 true sets of leaves. Then you can add your nutrients but I suggest only at 1/2 strength for the first few feedings. Leave out all that other stuff because Thatcher you made your last mistake.
I hope this helps you out.
thanks for the answer guys will sent later updates and pics of my ladies trying to order seeds from hear is there a better way like money transfer money order or something beside sending cash i will not use bicon please let me know
what do you mean by nutrient free soil ??? or soil just for seedling may i have some names please so i can check them out thanks for your garrigan62 you always been a great to me peace!!!
Yes, often seeds and seedlings will have a hard time establishing a large root zone quickly, and worse case they flat out “nute burn” and die, if the soil contains too strong/concentrated, or too “hot” of nutrients. Most soil “starter” for seedling is already nutrient free, or very very low nutrients.
Something like any of these:
hey fellow growers question??? is it safe to use a mycorrhizal and bacterial root inoculant at the same time or when to use it. is it safe to use with seed starting mixes like miracle grow or espoma seed stater
I don’t see any problems using them together or on seedlings or in starter, as long as you are following the directions.
Thank you MacGyver for jumping in
Stop trimming and give the plant time to regroup
Otherwise she looks good.