3rd indoor grow Starting 9/13

Not much to say as far as I can see. Plants look good and you seem to have a reasonable plan.

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Yeah, I know lol, but this is usually where it turns on me lol. I added a humidifier this grow so hopefully that helps. My last grow just kinda seem to dry up and die before the buds finish (some did, some didn’t) ill keep adding pictures and see lolol… just nice to know you’re looking :wink:

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Have you learned DLI yet?

Turn your lights up full power to help control the stretch.
Have fans blowing on all of them?

Following a VPD chart? What’s your temp /humidity?

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No, my phone maxes out at 422 ppfd even with diffuser. I couldn’t figure it out. I was planning to push intensity as far as possible during veg. Then drop down to 50% when flowering begins and increase gradually to be 100% at the end

I have 32" clearance. It (spider farmer) says I can be 26" in veg but they got fried somehow last grow. Not sure if it was heat or intensity. I thought I saw one plant looking weird on top, so I backed off from 80% to 75. I’ll post an upclose pic tomorrow to show what I’m seeing. Do you think I should be able to go 100%? I sure did when I bought the light lol. Its only 454w

Don’t think I can use a VPD chart until I get a meter.

The humidity stays between 50 and 60% probably 80% of the time 40 and 75% are the extremes. The humidifier doesn’t have a humidistat. I control it with a timer.

The temp holds really close to 72°f but you see where I have the humidistat. I need to rig up something to hang it at canopy level but a big difference to my hand. I also put in a larger fan directed right at 1’ area under light to hopefully blow the higher temps away. I’ll post an upclose pic tomorrow

I put my water in at 6.5ph but the runoff is usually 5.8. Im guessing HF has buffers. Without nutes I have to ph down. With nutes its almost exactly 6.5… should I be ph’ing up to get higher number in run off?

I misunderstood the VPD chart… I though it was for lights. No I’m not using it. I think I probably need a better humidifier with built-in humidstat

100% lighting controls stretch and will grow buds, until late flower.

Run off ph doesn’t mean anything, for ph you need to do a soil slurry sample with distilled.

A humidfior with settings is needed to better control VPD and a temp controller for your exhaust fan.

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A slurry test i can do. I always worry about root damage lol

Yeah need like a straw but made out of steel to take a plug.

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That’s a really good idea

Sorry, I should probably be collecting the driest soil i can for a slurry test, right?

No doesn’t matter really an aluminum straw would work though and they sell those in grocery stores now.

You want to dig down a bit basically

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Yeah, I’ve seen those. I was thinking about cannibalizing the wind chime my wife hung out back :laughing:

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I disagree with this. All you really need to know is if ph is stable or trending one way or the other. Provided you collect in clean vessel comparing ph in vs out should be plenty to tell you all you need to know about ph. I think a slurry test makes sense to check ph on a new bag of soil, but even then you can only put so much faith into your findings. This is why I quit buying fox farms actually. After taking a handful of samples from same bag and multiple bags none of the ph and ppm readings were consistent.

@bonger i can’t really think of a reason it makes sense to max your light intensity in veg, the decrease and slowly increase from there. Assuming you’re vegging on 18 hour schedule and dropping to 12 hour schedule for flowering? If so, there is an automatic 33% reduction in dli by way of the light schedule at flip. I think sf4000 is a little small for a 5x5, so as long as you don’t put yourself into an issue with light being too close to plants directly under it should be plenty good to just make transition from healthy veg intensity into flowering and slowly increase to harden plants from there.

My dad grows in a promix product and I have him feed at a ph of 6.0 based on their line of instructional videos available on YouTube. If you get some time I would maybe check those videos out.

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I’m growing autos, sorry if I left that out. The high intensity during veg, i was hoping, would control the stretch. Then I read that the transition to flower was a little stressful so the lower intensity might help and graduallyincreaseto 100 . I’ve had problems with height and burning. Sometimes because I failed to raise the light soon enough while they’re growing, other times I just run out of space so that’s why I’m trying to control the stretch to try and keep smaller. What do you a light cycle intensity should be. (I need to get a damn light meter. My phone sucks)

I think what happened last was a combination of low humidity and not enough air moving directly under the light. I never got closer than 16"

I agree with you on HF. I wonder if it sitting around for months causes decomposition to start right in the bag. I’ve felt warmth even. Plus had different results with ppm and when to start jack’s 3 2 1. I think I’ve got that figured out too, but you have to check ppm on each pot even though same strain, same age, same bag of soil. That was my last bag, but im not sure I can afford to switch to autopots which is my goal. Looks to me, in my area, to be around $250 for a ready to use 5 pot system. So HF may be my next grow too ugh

Yeah, I fell for spider farmer claiming sf4000 was best for 5x5… but that’s what I have. Next time I’ll be smarter. Right now I just try to them close to the center as possible but they bush out

I’ll check those YouTube videos. I know i could probably do better with ph but its never been radical or have extreme shifts. But to be clear, slurry or runoff, I should adjust water ph in to get correct ph coming out?

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Sorry for double posting lol…

Here’s the chart I was trying to simulate by guesstimation…

I only thing I have is the manufacturer PAR that shows ppfd at 12" 16" and 24" all of which are closer than I should be… so basically I have nothing

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You can still reduce schedule on autos. Which looks like it would solve most of your concerns?

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Same thing happening… turned light down to 50…






The largest one in back is 30" from light. I had one last grow similar (GSC) that didn’t make it.

Even a couple fan leaves have tips twisting

I do flood/drought but they look a little droopy. It’s not water. Ppm was 900 ave just last watering. I was going to start nutes tomorrow. It also is starting to transition it looks like

Might this help?

Should I be concerned about my cannabis plant’s leaves canoeing up?

If you notice that the serrated edges of your autoflowering cannabis plant are canoeing upwards, it is often a distress signal that your marijuana plant is not doing well. This condition is referred to as ‘the claw’ because it is characterized by marijuana plant leaves curling or clawing upwards. Be careful not to ignore this call for help!

Diagnosing why your autoflowering cannabis leaves are curling up is tricky. However, once you can identify the cause, it is easy to resolve it.

Why are my autoflowering cannabis leaves canoeing up?

Notice your cannabis leaves curling up?

Here are a few reasons why and how you can help them:

Overwatering

If you are giving your cannabis plant too much water, or too frequently, you might be overwatering them. Excess moisture and heat can cause your pot plant’s leaves to curl up.

Autoflowering cannabis plants use their roots to absorb oxygen. By drowning them in water, you prevent them from being able to access pockets of oxygen in the water. Continuous overwatering can also lead to your cannabis plant being waterlogged over time.

Solution: Make sure your cannabis plant is being grown in fast-draining soil with holes at the bottom of the pot to let excess water escape. Space out your watering sessions until your weed plant’s condition returns to normal.

Too much fertilizer

Compost and fertilizers are usually an effective means of encouraging healthy marijuana plant growth. However, excess fertilizer can be detrimental to your autoflowering cannabis plant.

Over-fertilizing can transform your autoflowering cannabis plant’s soil into a toxic pool overflowing with nutrient salts, which can cause your plants to suffer from fertilizer burn. It can lead to your plant’s leaves canoeing up, wilting, and producing low-quality buds.

Solution: Use water to flush out your pot plant’s soil and dial down the fertilizer usage. If this does not resolve your over-fertilizing crisis, consider transplanting your cannabis plant into new soil and container.

Heat stress

Temperaturesabove 30 degrees Celsius are dangerous for your autoflowering cannabis plants, especially if they are young and have not yet developed a complete root system. Extended exposure to the sun’s scorching heat can stunt your marijuana plant’s growth.

You will know your plant is suffering from heat stress if you see your cannabis leaves canoeing up along with the presence of yellow-brown spots on leaves.

Solution: If your autoflowering cannabis plants are being grown outdoors, use a piece of cloth as an outdoor shade against the sun. Water your plants early in the morning to keep them cool. Try using ceramic pots to insulate your plant’s roots against the sun. ( Pro Tip: Seaweed kelp extract is known to help heat-stressed plants recover quickly! )

Windburn

Too much wind can cause your autoflowering cannabis plant’s leaves to cup upwards. Wind-stressed cannabis plants curl up their leaves to protect themselves from strong winds.

If you notice that leaves positioned further away from the wind do not show signs of canoeing up, then your plant may be suffering from windburn. If you do not address your plant’s windburn, it can lead to injured leaves, weak growth, and a poor harvest.

Solutions: Use fans which have multiple strength settings so that you can adjust the airflow. It is a good idea to point fans towards your autoflowering cannabis plant such that there is a gentle gush of air above your weed plant’s canopy, and another flow right underneath the leaves. Remove leaves that have been damaged too much by windburn.

Key takeaway

Clawing or canoeing up of autoflowering cannabis plant leaves is a common problem. Your job as a cannabis cultivator is to spend your time and energy diagnosing what is causing it. Doing so will make it easier to help your plant become healthy again.

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Man, I’ve read so much stuff, so many diagnosis articles my head is spinning. I just need help

Do you think for sure this is canoeing?

Honestly, from the pics, I can’t be sure. But zooming in as far as I can it would be my best guess.

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