2nd grow, First time RDWC, indoor

Someone tell these plants to stop stretching. Glad I planned for trying to have room to move light around and beside/above my fan…


My ec has come up to 2.5, so I’m debating adding just water next time to lower the EC, after pH and then hydro gaurd… Or potentially changing out water, but I don’t think that’s needed.

The smell is getting strong and one is flowing more than the others

Some signs of stress or lack of something but I haven’t had time to research it and it’s only on a few leaves so I’m not that worried about it tbh


Looking good man! Those ladies are BEASTS!!
I’m not sure what’s happening with that one girl either.
I hope it stays confined to that one plant and isn’t an illness or anything that will spread to the others.
It’s always odd and confusing when two seeds from the same bag act so differently.
Of my two Northern Lights autos I light bleached the hell out of one of them and the other is virtually unaffected. Granted it’s smaller, but even equal height growth across the two on one bleaching, the other - nothing! LOL!
Oddly the buds forming on the bleached girl are slightly fuller at this point!
Flower-wise they’re about even with yours but growth-wise you got me for sure!! LOL!

Have you checked the guides about the leaf issue? I’d check it out just in case man!
You don’t want to get behind the ball too much.
And definitely don’t want to stunt what you’ve got going on.

Keep on strokin’ man!!


Looking great man


Well my EC in is still creeping up, showing 2.6 - 2.7 now

I need to add more water to my system so I need to figure out what I want to do,

I guess I am just just going to ph some plain tap water and add the hydro guard to it and then add it to res,

Typically I am adding jacks to it and it bring the ec to about 1.8,

My ph has remained really stable at 5.8

I am really debating emptying my system and filling it up with new just jacks, ph and hydro guard water, but I am not sure at what point there is a need for that in rdwc.

Lets tag some RDWC people and see what their input it

@Graysin @peachfuzz @Myfriendis410 @RockClarke @LateNightGardner
I think that is everyone that has RDWC/hydro exp that has been helping me, sorry if I missed anyone


I also wanted to add some pictures of my plants/leaves in case anyone had input on this as well


The theory is once you have replenished 3x the volume of water that you originally filled with, it’s time for a full change (likely because your EC is mostly salt residue at that point, I suspect, but I’d wait for a more seasoned hydro opinion on that one).

For example if you have a 10gal reservoir that you filled, then by the time you’ve added 30 gallons of “top off” then it’s time to dump and clean. I don’t remember where I even read that but it stuck with me because I know I’m more like at 10-12x my reservoir capacity by now. I simply dilute my res with RO water until it reaches a more desirable PPM/EC. You can add in your microbes and such but just remember your tap water has some EC of its own - so don’t forget to subtract that amount when you’re calculating how much is really in the res. My tap has an EC of like 0.4-0.5 depending on the day. Solid 0.5 if I’ve added PH down.

Edit: regarding the plant leaves, it looks like magnesium deficiency. Not unusual- just bump up your Epsom salts a bit (if you’re using 1.2g per gal, scoot to 1.4g per gal and see if that helps prevent on new growth. Old growth won’t repair)


Plant is consuming more water than salts: dilute down as you suggested but I’d take it to 1.5 EC (750 ppm) as plant will continue to pull more water than nutes. Perfectly normal for flower.


What instrument are you using to check your ph… ?
I would agree with the statements above as well… :+1:t4:
:v:t4: :sunglasses:


Hey @Syndrix they getting into late stage flower. Those leaves that have lots of brown spots and are turning yellow can go and let the healthy leave her at that direct light. If they aren’t green not too much photosynthesis is going on. You have lots of vegetation so I pick leaves daily at this stage so lower bud sites can get more light. Also you can check under the canopy, lower leaves, and clip them too if they aren’t going to produce good bud.
At this stage when you add just ph’d water between changes, which should be once a week for a full change, I usually add a light amount of phosphorus and potassium with in between ph’d water.

General Hydroponics KoolBloom Ripening Formula, 2.2 lbs. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001IA1OU6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ZPSAGY9RCRFMRCCG80VP

Also during flower you can also start thinking about using an additional light source in the spectrum of full red and UV to enhance flowering.

Carambola 1000W LED Grow Light - Full Red FR Spectrum w/UV for Indoor Plants Flower Booster https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086W8K1YZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ZCTP0DM1SMCHQ88FX8FT

Start these Full Red 15 minutes before lights on until 5 minutes after lights on. Then again 5 minutes before lights off until 5 minutes after lights off.

Trying to mimic the earths daily cycle.


Looking at the spectrum chart for that light it actually has very little FAR red, which is different from photo red.
Far Red which is what’s used to accomplish what you’re saying has a spectrum of 730nm and higher. Far red is what triggers the quick change from veg to flower at lights out, photo red does the exact opposite.
I imagine it works fine in the morning to wake them up, but it’s only doing a minimal amount of changing to flower growth from veg at the end of lights on.
It’s certainly not hurting the plants, but it’s not really causing the quick change in the phytochromes that true Far Red does.

In this article they call Photo red Deep red, but they’re plainly talking about a different spectrum of red.
Not all reds are created equal.
This is from a light manufacturers website so no linky! It’s from California Light Works if the mention is allowed, but I know the link isn’t!

" If you need your plants to get a move on with the flowering or you just want to increase yields, a temporary blast of far-red works wonders. Why?

Using blasts of Far Red at the end of the day – 10 minutes while the lights as on and then to minutes while the normal lights are on – can keep plants flowering with less than the 12 hours of darkness that are normally required. Many growers claim that by using this technique they can get up to 20% more production per year by shortening the daily growth cycle this way. 20% of additional production can be huge! Once again, this is very strain-dependent. Different strains start flowering at different lengths of the dark period.

Another trick used by some growers is to use all far red at the end of the day and then wake the plants up with deep red in the morning. This puts the plants to sleep and wakes them up more efficiently maximizing daytime photosynthesis and nighttime metabolism."

Looks like the hydro crew is getting you straight man! I’ve got some funky leaves on my GG auto that just won’t quit! She’s a weak plant overall and I’m kinda disappointed in her performance. And of course I have 9 more seeds of it! Hopefully it’s just a problem with that particular bean and not the whole batch.
I got so frustrated with her she got booted out of the tent to the sunniest window in the house.
It seemed like all she was doing in the tent was robbing space from the very robust FREE NL girls.
Doesn’t help that despite my best attempt at ignoring the left over skunk clone, she just keeps booming in growth!
Once the autos are done she can have the whole tent to herself - until I need to start my next round of clones!! LOL!

I’m still impressed by the growth rate of those ladies though! Awesome!!

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I am using the bluelab for ph and ec

I checked the calibration on them the other day, I am surprised I have had no/very little PH drift this entire time.

I do need to get more calibration solution, anyone recommend any specific stuff/brand for this?
looking at this stuff now

I actually have not changed out my water this entire grow, I have just been adding to it… So I guess it is time for a full water swap… Might just ad some half strength nuet solution to get me to the weekend and then do a full water swap over the weekend

I really appreciate everyone’s responses and help and suggestions!


I still haven’t changed my water from late August. :v:

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Check the spectrum for the Emerson Effect is actually a combination of both.

Emerson Effect

The Emerson effect is the increase in the rate of photosynthesis after chloroplasts are exposed to light of wavelength 680 nm (deep red spectrum) and more than 680 nm (far red spectrum). When simultaneously exposed to light of both wavelengths, the rate of photosynthesis is far higher than the sum of the red light and far red light photosynthesis rates. The effect was early evidence that two photosystems, processing different wavelengths, cooperate in photosynthesis.

Correct, but I believe The Emerson Effect is when you use the Far red during the entire lights on period.
The far Red blast at night and Photo red blast at lights on are solely fro switching the phytochromes in the plant from veg growth to bud growth. Those chemicals are the ones that tell the plant to take the energy it collected throughout the day, which it’s devoting to vegetative growth, to then devote that energy to the nighttime processes which is flower, THC and associated oils development. Without the blast of Far red at lights out for a short period it takes the natural process about 2 hours to accomplish this procedure.
Photo red works the same, but in reverse. It switches the phytochromes back to veg growth. Honestly I’ve not read how long it takes to switch back with lights on naturally.

Photosynthesis is like the broad umbrella that coves a whole host of plant processes.

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What spectrum of light does HPS bulbs radiate vs. Metal Halide?
I am using these to wake and put to sleep my girls. I’ve also added the UV to try and increase Trichomes and resin.
Dr. Brice Bugsby has some YouTube videos that explain some of this better than I.

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You got me on that one! I’m all LED so honestly I’m not sure.
I’m using UVA and a Far red bar currently Far red for limited times, UVA runs entire lights on period.
The UVA definitely helps with trichs and resin production.
I grew same seeds inside and out last summer and indoor plant had a LOT more trichs and resin overall. Also a better taste and high than the outside ladies.
I started down the spectrum rabbit hole a month or two ago and added the Far Red the. Next grow I plan on using it more effectively than this one so honestly I’m not completely sure if it’s doing what I expected.
I’ll find out after the next seed run!

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2,700 K IIRC…


Thanks @Myfriendis410. Kinda why I wanted to add some red and UV for flower. I remember HPS has a lot of Red and some in its emission spectrum and is used for flowering.

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Well I forgot to replace my batteries I’m my govee temp humidity sensor. So I just recently did that.

I’m worried about high humidity during the night so I bought a de humidifier.

Had a little mold last grow, I do not want to risk that happening again.

Also got a bottom draw water pump which will let me change out my water easier.

Guess I need to get one of those rainbird dehumidifier controller things.

It looks like my humidity during the day is okay, it’s at night when the temp drops and the humidity rises that I’m worried about.

Looking at the vpd chart it looks like my humidity is actually a little low during the lights on

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