Already doing great after topping. I actually had to take about 8in off one of the plants down to the second node on the new collas. They took off so much it was throwing off the balance in there. Also hit them with the first round of green cleaner last night that finally showed up. Only knats nothing serious.
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Starting to see some damage on a couple plants. They showed up after I did a foliar treatment of green cleaner a few days ago. I have not seen any bugs on the plant or the soil under magnification. However, I have never had this happen before. I was thinking it could be either a little nute burn or a deficiency going into flower. Ph is running high though at 7.70 so I am slow flushing with ph h20. The damage is sparatic and near the top and not being consumed from the bottom up. I am switching to flower probably next week so I wanna get this in check.
Secondly, is there any reason why i am developing new roots on the stem just above the soil? They grow out the side then travel down intonthe soil, never happened on my plants before. Any input is appreciated.
Sounds like you’re on the right track. It looks like she’s a little hungry because of the pH, probably. You can bury those roots if you want, no big deal 
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your P H is to high I;m going to post something for ya…kinda long but very informitive.
One of the common problems that most growers face is alteration in pH levels in the soil,
which can occur for a number of reasons. For instance, over fertilizing will no doubt
create a pH imbalance in any type of soil used to grow plants. Organic soil additives tend
to raise pH levels when used incorrectly while synthetic fertilizers may cause salinity,
but effects vary depending on the actual chemical composition of fertilizers used. Purified
water is also a major contributing factor that interferes with normal soil pH and especially
tap water treated with chlorine.
You can tell that there is something wrong with the soil in which marijuana plants are
growing when certain abnormities start to occur despite giving your plants adequate water,
proper nutrients and lighting. When the pH level of soil is tampered with, a lot of problems
can occur. For starters, older leaves start to curl and may also develop tiny yellow, brown
or red spots. As the soil pH problem continues, these spots can start to appear anywhere
on marijuana plants including the stalk. pH imbalance that is ignored goes on to cause nutrient
intake problems by blocking out essential minerals for your plants. In fact, unsuitable soil
pH is one of the causes of mineral deficiency disorders in cannabis plants.
It is easy to confuse mineral deficiency with pH imbalance when caring for cannabis
plants because these two cultivation problems present almost similar traits. However,
problems with pH levels are evident when fertile soil has been chosen for cultivating
cannabis crops or when you have been following a proper nutrient feeding regimen.
The first step towards fixing soil pH is to test your water and soil. Water that has
impurities may have a slightly altered pH, but a good reading should be close to 7.
If the problem is caused by the water you are using to feed your plants, then you might
want to consider changing to a different source of water. On the other hand, you can use
a digital pH tester to demine the level of acidity or alkalinity in the soil. When the
pH is too high, it can be adjusted in a variety of ways such as adding sawdust, lemon
juice, wood chips, peat moss, composted leaves and leaf mold. Alternatively, addition
of wood ash, potassium hydroxide, lime, bone meal or crushed marbles can help to adjust
pH that is too high.
It is imperative to treat the soil gradually for up to a week before attempting to fix
any mineral deficiency problems that you may suspect. Sometimes mineral intake or lack
thereof may stem from pH imbalance in soil that is rich with all the essential nutrients
that marijuana plants require.
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@garrigan62, Excellent information. I was going to try and use something natural to lower the water ph and simly flush with ph’d water and no more food till i start flower next week. I used the last of my ph down last water (ugh, thought i had another one!) Now i am waiting for product again, my fault this time. Is there anything to ph the water or even the soil? I heard you can use coffee grounds to lower ph but I have seen zero info on how to use it exactly. For example, im in five gal buckets. Much appreciated!!
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He is the Ilgm Encyclopedia lol
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I have used lemon juice to lower pH.
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So last night about 6pm i checked a small amount of run off and it was 8.02 which means ot went up over the afternoon, Too high. This morning after work I ph’d my water with three capfuls of apple cider vinegar to 2gal. (I very slowly added and checked the ph and it stayed steady in the can at 7.0 over an hour period. I watered till run off and its reading 7.6 four hours later. Im hoping it lasts at least overnight. I dont know the life span for apple cider vinager in soil.
Overnight update. I am now a firm believer in using unsaturated apple cider vinager to help a high ph problem. The overall look of the plants are crazy and the fillowing pics of new growth on the top is literaly overnight. I will keep using the vinager now until I get them back down. 
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Last runoff: I checked and it looks like the ph is where it should be and holding. Its between 6.8-7.2 depending on the plant, which im fine with. There is one plant though that is still up at 8.3 but it looks great so…yeah. Obviously, not a by the book grow lol, oh well. Got them all trimmed up and sending them into a 36 hour dark period. From then on its gonna be 12/12 to start flower woohoo. Time has flown by on this one!
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Why do you need to do the “dark period”?? First timer here lol
Its something i personally like to do. It seems to help them set into flower faster than the abrupt switch from 18/6 to 12/12. I saw it a couple years ago and tried it. I see the difference in my plants vs the abrupt switch. Some people do it some don’t 
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It is just to signal that sunlight isn’t going to be readily available any more. So the plant starts to feed on the soil way more as the lack of sunlight increase. At least that how it works for 36 dark for harvesting.
Doing the 36 hour dark period before harvest is very common on here and I highly recommend I’ve never heard of the 36 hour for switching to flower. You know I’m going to try that next grow.
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@KingVars and @Anonyboii thank you very much. That makes sense. I’ve got a ways to go but my bf didn’t do that. So I’m curios to see the difference in his and mine when I’m done.
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Let me know how it goes! For me, it definitely sets them into the flower cycle quicker for me (new photosynthesis). I was seeing hairs coming through the calyx two days after the 36 hour dark. Actually, I fogot to write my times down so it might only be 1 1/2 days. Either way i havent seen them that quick via immediate flip in my garden. And the gradual light change takes even longer. I know some ppl ween them down from 18/6, 16/8, 14/10, 12/12 or something very similar. Ive been using the 36 hour dark since i first did it. I should update and add pics. I will try tomorrow to see if i cant get some good shots of the calyxs. Oh and I don a 36 hour dark before harvest as well, at least 24 if im anxious to get going!! lol
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@KingVars I found the two pics I took in my other phone. In my tent in my conditions this is a day and a half after I sent them into a 36 hour dark before flipping the 12/12.
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I just realized how crappy the pics are but those are a few hairs if you can make that out.
Congrats. You’ve got a female and she’s starting to flower.
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Yup yup! Im actually pretty excited. So far i have 9 out of ten females. The other I’m on the fence whether the other is a hermie. The ball/calyix hasn’t formed enough on the branch in question. It has hairs on the uppers and the questiinable one is on the lower. Im hoping it is a light penetration issue causing underdevelopment so i can just pinch it off. I won’t chance it if it’s male or hermie