I returned the Black Dog and opted for two Grower’s Choice ROI E720’s. They were just a little more in cost for the two than the one BD and the micro-mol/s was 2.5% the BD. 834 vs 2080 x 2 for a total of 4160 vs 834. I hope that will make the difference with the CO2.
Thoughts?
I haven’t been able to check that one out, but hydro shop near me had the older roi-680 while back. I thought it was a very nice light for the money.
In terms of efficiency and light design, you have way better fixtures now. As long as they hold up you should be pretty happy.
So, the lab is set up (sort of to speak).
Couple questions about the CCH2O RDWC:
1 - Do i need to recirc the water 24/7 or ???
2 - When I go to drain and refill how long can the girls be without water? It will take about 8 hours to fill the entire loop on my RO system. I can make about 150 gpd. The entire closed loop system holds around 80 gallons.
3 - Should my overflow res be full of 5.8 pH water only or do I need to nute match it to the circulating water?
My RO water comes out at 6.8pH and 0.0 TDS - anything I need to be aware of?
Lastly, I have one AF seed that isn’t floating like ALL the others (AF or PP, either one). Does that mean this seed is probably faulty from anyone’s past experience and I should add another for back up purposes?
Thanks
Not familiar with this system, current culture maybe, or growing with a recirculating system in general. But I would look at the company’s support material for guidance here. I would assume the idea is to run it all it the time, but could be different if its top feed system vs undercurrent system i suppose.
This will depend on variables within your room. Several hydroponic growers can go weeks with just topping off and adjusting levels of nutrients and ph. If you run into issues or have trouble getting a feel for what adjustments need to be made, you may have to change more often.
Best way to change out your solution would be to have replacement solution ready to go, then drain off old solution and insert new. This shouldn’t take too long, and even with some mistakes or interruptions should be plenty fast enough. But the answer to how long they can sit without solution should be no longer than is necessary.
Not sure I understand the question, but everything within your system should be the same ph and ppm. If its current culture should have epicenter and possibly a top off res. But neither is really an overflow.
Doesn’t really matter what your ro water is. If has no ec/ppm your ph reading probably isn’t accurate, but that doesn’t matter. Add your nutrients in correct mixing order then adjust to proper to ph.
I don’t use this method, but I’m pretty sure they will sink eventually. As far as I know sinking right away doesn’t mean anything.
It is the Current Culture 8 gallon 8 site if that helps with any further advice?
Not from me, sorry. Closest I have come is watching one at hydro shop. I like the concept of them, but too big of system for anything I do.
I agree with everything db has said but I’m gonna add, if your water is not circulating, it may have the tendency to breakdown and settle in your buckets. I would personally keep it going.
Good luck! Keeps us posted. 
This is what I was thinking but wanted to ask before assuming alone. Thanks.
Next question:
I remember the last time I grew that we used SM-90, as well as H2O2. With that said, they don’t make SM-90 any longer and I can’t remember how we applied the H2O2.
In place of the SM-90 I am thinking of running Hydro Gaurd. What is everyone’s thoughts on this as a replacement?
Secondly, and specifically for those that have RDWC systems, what is the concentrations and period that H2O2 is added? How much per gal? Does it need to be introduced at a certain period or only when a problem shows up?
I can’t remember what or how we used it and for what application purposes.
Thanks,
The ONLY time I use peroxide is when I soak my seeds. It’s really not necessary in hydro unless your cleaning or trying to kill root rot.
I do however use hydroguard throughout the whole grow. 1/2 tsp / gal every time I do a res change or add water.
But, I also run a chiller which I would highly recommend.
I could be mistaken, but you wouldn’t want to run hydroguard and peroxide. Hydroguard is beneficial bacteria, and I’m pretty sure h202 will kill it. So should be more a question of one or the other, or possibly an alternative. Hydroguard is pretty popular, but I feel like I see a lot of people run sterile too. Executed properly you should be successful either way.
@HappyHydroGrower thanks for the info. Last time I ran a grow it was ebb and flow and I do believe we may have had root rot but not certain.
@dbrn32 I was thinking the same thing on killing off the good bacteria from HG but as this unfolds I hope to ask more questions then I do assume/guess. I want to make getting back in this saddle as smooth a ride as possible.
Thanks again.
What is anyone’s thoughts on these cotelydon’s? They are about 10 days from seed or there are abouts, maybe 7. I can’t exactly remember the initial date.
I used napkin technique to germinate.
RO H2O 6.0 pH no mutes.
Seed to rapid rooter.
Leaves are yellowing on some, root shot out top and pushed cotelydon out really far, etc.
Thoughts on healthy, lacking, hurt etc.
Oh yeah, in humidity dome. RH 90-94% temps 80-90, averages 84.
Nice! It’ll be time to harvest before you know it.
They appear to me to be looking worst today. Please let me know your thoughts on their current state.
I put info above but maybe I am too far removed to remember this process and they are fine but for some reason I am thinking they are struggling and need something?
Thanks again.
They appear to be a little too wet from what I can see. It may be a little early to be hitting them with water. They still need just a mist or two a day. I would not have any water soaking the rock wool just yet. Let them dry out some till they get established. Usually about a good 2 weeks.
Maybe @Myfriendis410 @peachfuzz might have some insight as to something different.
Rockwool in high RH should be good for about 7 days. Try to avoid over watering as it will damp off plants.
Light is inadequate for sprouts and causing the stretching. Lower light or increase intensity to prevent.
Several pictures did not upload: gotta wait for the software engine to populate your reply.
@HappyHydroGrower when you say a “mist or two” do you mean RO H2O only as foiler or do you have a different mix of nutes that you spray the rooting medium with, or as a foiler spray?
Just trying to make sure I don’t make a bad assumption so I had rather ask to clarify.
Thanks
Usually for the first two weeks, I keep mine in one of those seed starters with a clear dome on it. I let the rapid rooter dry out some and then just mist the clear dome and maybe the plant itself. I use my tap water. Most recommend ro water during that time. They will feed off the cotyledon leaves during that time with just the humidity within the dome. You just don’t want the rr to dry out completely.
Guys, the AF’s only have one that I think will even make it, let alone do much but want your thoughts.
Should I trash or keep them going until the end?
Also, does anyone know how ILGM is about replacing seeds when such a thing happens? These have all been under the same dome, same water, same light, RH, etc. and they die?
