Here are the nuts I’m using. I put three in to early is my guess. What I put in was for the final flowering stage.
Ok this gang is definitely getting better.
Here are my two girl scout cookie Xtremes, Left Twix and Right Twix.
Three pineapple express and one sour diesel.
Sorry but the correct ph for dwc is 5.3-5.8
At that high ph your locking out needed nutrition @CooperinKredible
How often are you changing water? When I worked in a fish store I’d always tell people the more often you do a water change the better. The reef or a lake is not stagnate, always flushing its self out. I change mine every 3 days and when I slack and do it later my plants really show that they need fresh.
This is my 2 cents worth, it’s just alive things like fresh things, I like fresh water n food.
Happy growing and now
Puff puff pass
Ok I lowered my pH down a bit before work. The water isnt stagnant or anything . Its circulates from air manifolds in the tanks. I do think I might involve a water filter of some kind.
I don’t mean stagnate, just older water. I was out of town for 10 day, so my hydro systems sat for 10 days. I like more frequent. I propagated corals in 3 1000 gallon tubs. Yes every 3 days I changed over 3000 gallons. They loved it and never died, took to figure this out. I am just doing same here cause isn’t my friend.
Well seeing as to how this was posted in the aquaponics thread, i thought we were talking about aquaponics here which is why i hadnt replied after seeing the bottles. If he was using aquaponics then the correct ph would be, in fact around 6.5. Not 5.5 unless you are trying to stress your fish to death. I/we generally dont have to do water changes in aquaponics after a system is cycled assuming that your fish to plant ratio is pretty close to where it needs to be.
Hydro PH is 5.8 +/- .3
Make sure airstones are not clogged. I have had air pump issues in the past, and the lack of Oxygen can cause this look.
Best to copy/paste an ILGM Support ticket so we can give you more informed guidance.
p.s. wrong category