We got an Inadvertent clone from a random seed


#21

I took them out to get some sun and water, and they started drooping almost right away. When I took them outside they were fine, but now (shown here back under the fluorescent lights) are back inside.

One theory is cold. We had a cold snap, don’t laugh, it got into the sixties last night, and it was too cold for them. There’s also shock, and probably other stuff that I know nothing about. The first clones got no special care, just thrown to the wolves as it were, but these we actually want to work since we had such luck with the first ones.

From on top. I used the leaves we trimmed off as mulch, that’s why the dead stuff.

Side view.

@garrigan62 @Oldstoner @Countryboyjvd1971 @FloridaSon @realdream


#22

This is on clone 1. There are a few more, very tiny. Is this the new growth we’re looking for? Are we ready to transplant to a larger container? It occurred to me that I’ll have to cut the planter starter apart, because I don’t want to dump the new clones out when I get the other two.

@garrigan62 @Countryboyjvd1971 @FloridaSon @bob31 @Oldstoner @Matthew420 @realdream


#23

Im still learning to clone myself so I’ll let one of the others take lead on this one @Bunny-mike


#24

Sorry for the delay. I think I’m back now

Yes, that’s the new growth you’ve been waiting on. Those sites will become your new branches.


#25

1 and 2 are looking pretty good. A little less green than the later clones, but standing up nicely.

1 (on the right) has little leaves coming out from where she lost leaves earlier. 2 has little leaves coming out of the top, and now finally tiny leaves coming out at the lost leaf sites. How long before we transplant? And after transplant do we treat them like a regular plant?

Here you can see the growth 2 (top) has from its top.

All four clones together. 1 and 2 will be two weeks tomorrow. 3 and 4 are five days old.

Here are 3 and 4 from the top. They seem wilted, and have all day. I gave them real light again today. Any idea why they might be wilting?

@Oldstoner @FloridaSon @garrigan62 @Countryboyjvd1971


#26

I have only tried cloning once and it was a fail for me good luck


#27

The wilt is probably due to not having enough roots yet. I noticed you didn’t trim the fan leaves. This is allowing the plant to transpire more moisture than it’s able to take in.

Yes, once you transplant up, treat them like mature plants. Light feeding, but they’re not as sensitive as seedlings as long as you have good rooting.


#28

What a difference a day made. I trimmed the fan leaves and started hitting them with the sprayer more often.

Three out of four clones

Is she ready to transplant? @Oldstoner @FloridaSon @garrigan62 @Countryboyjvd1971 We don’t see roots at the bottom, but don’t want to wait too long, either. They are both looking pale, suggesting a change in venue and feeding might be in order.

The other early clone.
They would have to go together, we think, so we can get them out of the planter intact.

3 and 4, 2 in the background

They perked right up overnight, after I trimmed the leaves and sprayed her more.

All four clones.
1 and 2 (left) are two weeks and a day, 3 and 4 are one week old.


#29

Personally I would wait until seeing roots before transplanting. Doing it too soon will slow them down.

Give them a little more time to get over the shock they were put through and it will pay off in the long run.

Patience…


#30

@FloridaSon when should they start to show? They’re two weeks two days old.

The older clones on the left, the newer ones on the right. They perked right up after trimming their leaves.

1 and 2. Their color seems pale, but they’re still alive.

A shot of our pot nibbling cat doing his thing.

3 and 4 are doing much better with the more frequent sprayings and trimmed leaves.


#31

Without reminding me of details(pH, soil conditions, age of mother when cut…) I would guess at N deficiency or cal/mag?

You could try a foliar spray with weak nutes. As you can see from the younger cuttings, they should already be bouncing back. I only have about 80% success rate at this time with clones. I’m hoping to improve this year after seeing the success of @Paranorman. Perhaps he can help?

He’s a wizard with clones…


#32

Mother was just under six weeks. They already looked great, then started changing colors, which is why we’ve started wondering how to tell if they’re rootbound without taking them out.

I gave them some 1-1-1 and foliar and watered it in.

@Paranorman @FloridaSon


#33

We decided to transplant one of the clones, and planned to do the other one later. I am the champion of getting the center of the plant next to the edge of the pot.
This is 2 when we first put her in soil.

Still alive the next morning

Meanwhile 3 and 4 are getting ready.

1 didn’t fare as well. We think the disruption of the roots may have caused her demise.


#34

The transplanted clone. She’s not looking real healthy, is this just part of the process? She was taken at the six week mark, and is three weeks old.

These are the clones taken at seven weeks, they are just short of two weeks old. I think they might be ready soon, but how do I tell? @Oldstoner @FloridaSon @garrigan62 @Countryboyjvd1971 @Matthew420


#35

@Bunny-mike

your seedlings seem to be having a rough time. They all have nutrient burn. And if your cuttings have nutrient burn so does the plant from which you took them from.
here is a pi of nutrient burn see what i mean?

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Miscellaneous Sick Plant Troubles

This picture is caused by temperature changing from cold to warm, cold nights and warm days.

Some varieties, like equatorial sativas, don’t take well to cold weather. If you can keep the roots warmer, the plant will be able to take cooler temps than it otherwise could. Also note that in colder temps, phosphorus gets poorly absorbed and if this happens your plants can show purpling of the leaves and stems, (cannabis has a natural purple color to it’s stems, the deep purple is what shows the problem)this is the same example when plants change color in flowering when environment triggers cause the plant to change color, also genes play a role as well.

This picture below shows phosphorus being locked out due to cold temps.
(Photo Credit: TikTok420)

Another lockout of phosphorus due to cooler temps

This picture is what light bleaching/ light burn looks like.
Only way to fix this is to Move the lights away from the plant!
Or make sure you dont go over 75 watts a sq foot, or your plant will have to much light and light bleaching can occur anywhere on the plant. (indica species seem to bleach easier than sativas imo.)

(Picture Provided by Boy Howdy)

These pictures is what heat stress looks like.
Only way to fix this is to Move the lights away from the plant!
And get better ventalation, and or add more fans! Heat - If the lights are too close to the plant, the tops may be curled,
dry, and look burnt, mimicking a
nutrient problem. Your hand should not feel hot after a minute when you hold it at the top of the plants.

(Picture 1 and 2 Provided by Mosfed)

Nutrient Burn :teef:

Nutrient Burn is one of the MOST common mistakes a new grower makes, reason for this is, because a newer grower will use a chemical nutrient most of the time and listen to the directions on the box. This is a NO NO! Depending on the age of the plant, size, strain and soil mixture you are using also has a factor. There is no set guideline when using nutrients, but I can give you a good example to start out with so you will not burn your plants. It’s always good to start out light, rather than feed heavy. Remember you can always add more later, but can not take out when you added to much. Chemical and Organic nutrients differ. Chemical nutrients are more readily available and can burn way easier than organics can. Organics are easier for a newer grower to use, most of the time, and lessen your chances of burning your plants.
I recommend not using more than ½ teaspoon of chemical nutrients per gallon of water. Unless the plants are very big 5 feet+, then it’s safe to use 1 teaspoon per gallon of water. When your plants first emerge you want to wait at least 2 weeks before feeding your plants, unless your plants are in a soiless mixture, like pro mix. The cotyledons (its first set of round looking leaves) are what give the plant its food until they get the first 2 or 3 sets of leaves. If your plants are in a soiless mixture and are over the first week of age; you can feed a weak amount of nutrients, like ¼ teaspoon per gallon of water. Soiless mixtures are different from soil plants and soiless plants need to be fed more when using this mixture.

I also recommend not feeding more than 1 time a week if using ½ teaspoon per gallon of water for chemical nutrients. You can feed every other day,( this goes for chemical and organics) at very weak amounts, but doing this may contribute to over watering, and for that I do not recommend feeding more than once a week. Some people feed 2 times a week using like ¼ teaspoon per gallon of water… Use 1/4 strength for first feeding and then go up to 1/2 strength from the 2nd feeding when using chemical nutrients. It’s very easy to overdo it. When using organics, depending on which one you’re using, I recommend using 1 teaspoon per gallon of water. When the plant gets bigger you can work your way up to using more nutrients when the plants get bigger.

As for soil mixtures, there are a lot of different kinds of soil’s out there. Using a rich soil mixture is not recommended for seedlings. Seedlings that are under 2 weeks of age you do not want to start them in rich soil, using a seed starter mixture is one of the safer ways. Seed starter mixtures are weak in nutrients, so it will not burn the seedlings but will provide them enough to get past seedling stage, but the downside is you have to transplant into a better soil mixture after 2 weeks of age. If you decide to start with this mixture, do not put your seedlings into a big pot. Start them out with using a cup or a small pot.

Nutrient Burn causes leaf tips to appear yellow or burnt. They can also be brown and twisted and crispy looking. Depending on the severity it can show many different symptoms and shows on lower part of the plant when its young, at older stages it can move anywhere on the plant.

To fix the problem when you have Nutrient burn, you want to flush out the plants with lots of water.

Soil this is for the plant that you took your cuttings from.

Soil should be flushed with lots of water, Use 3 gallons of water per one gallon of soil. Flush very thoroughly, after plant recovers usually after a week, you can resume using nutrients after a week or a week 1/2. When you flush your soil, you flush everything out, a lot of nutrients go with it, including the soil nutrients.

Ahh, nutrient burn! Stop this by not adding to much chemical/organic nutrients to your water,foliar feeding. DON’T feed more than 1 time a week unless using weak amount, use 1/4 strength for first feeding and then go up to 1/2 strength from then on when using chemical nutrients. Its very easy to overdo it. Causes leaf tips to appear yellow or burnt. NEVER give nutrients to plants that are under 2 weeks of age, at this age the soil nutrients are enough to supplement them untill 2 weeks of age or more depending on how good your soil is. Using fertilizer before 2 weeks will almost likely kill your plants.

I hope this helps

WILL


#36

Will, yes, thank you, it has helped. I flushed them real quick right after I read your note, then again each morning. I also flushed the mother plant twice, great timing since she’s going into flower and it’s time for her to go to straight water.

I had been doing daily feedings of very dilute mixtures in rotation. I was using the same mixture on the babies as I was using for the mother plant.

So, the plan is to continue the flushing daily for a week, or do I just not feed for a week? @kabongster @garrigan62 @FloridaSon @Oldstoner @Countryboyjvd1971

The surviving clone from the week-six cutting.

The week-seven cuttings, lovingly called 3 and 4.


#37

Oh ya they are looking much better glad we caught that in time.

Will


#38

I’d hold off feeding for the week.


#39

This is day four of no nutes, water only, following the flush
@garrigan62 @FloridaSon @Countryboyjvd1971 @kabongster @Matthew420 @oldstoner


#40

Hadn’t realized that it had been so long since I posted.

We lost clone 2, so she followed clone 1 into the compost. 3 and 4 are doing rather well, so I transplanted them into 8" nursery pots that I painted light colors to reflect the heat. (We’ve lost plants due to black pots overheating the soil) The plants weren’t root bound, but they were quite wet in the small seed starters I used. 3 lost her root ball, but her roots were right there. 4 had a more solid rootball so went a little better. I was in a hurry so forgot to put the rooting powder on the rootballs, but I sprinkled it over the top.

I took one clone from near the top, and one from a bottom branch. They can be told apart, but you’ve really got to look.