If you are concerned let it go another week or so then you will see which areas really develop and which don’t. Even doing a grow with no pruning will provide you with a better base line for next round as to what will or will not produce nice big hard nugs
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I’m with @Donaldj here! If there is one iotta of doubt then step away from the scissors, lol.
Sometimes it is really better to do nothing and see what happens.
And I don’t know if it is just me and my mobile browser but the pics did not load for me.
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Speaking of force feeding nutes… I have been working with @kabongster on trying to understand how much the plants eat. So I’ve been keeping track of PH and PPM levels (and as close as I can how much water each consumes over a period of time) to see if I can dial-in the numbers. Here is what I have so far (topping of res with plain PH’d water)
All numbers after that day’s topping.
Gold Leaf:
Age: 12/12 + 6 PH/PPM: 5.85/854 Water consumed: ~1.5 gallon
12/12 + 8 PH/PPM: 5.8 / 864 Water consumed: ~1.5 gallon
12/12 + 10 PH/PPM: 5.82 / 809 Water consumed: ~2 gallon
This all suggests to me that the GL is probably good right around 800 PPM.
Super Silver Haze:
Age: 12/12 + 6 PH/PPM: 5.74 / 908 Water consumed: ~1 gallon
12/12 + 8 PH/PPM: 5.8 / 864 Water consumed: ~ 1.5 gallon
12/12 + 10 PH/PPM: 5.8 / 685 Water consumed: ~ 2.5 gallon!
This suggests to me that I can raise the SSH nutrients on the next res change to somewhere around 1000 PPM.
For the sake of a baseline, my tap water is 67 PPM.
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I agree with the others. You can always cut later, but you won’t be able to put any back.
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I think it’s you brother, they show up for me on both my phone and the Web.
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I would say both would be able and happy 1000-1200ppm on next change they will actually start to eat more once in full flower so now is when you get ahead of curve. Remember they can go from barely eating to frenzy fast and early flower is when all those buds start if you aren’t shy about top off feeds you can keep ppm lower. Both plants are showing a drop in ppm between top offs and rest assured that will pickup as you flower for first 5 weeks
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Great feedback - thanks Donald. I am going to add Liquid Koolbloom this next change, and will be adding in FloraNectar at the end… trying some augmentation this time around. 
In the end is lighting that’s going to make or break this grow I am sure. Hope I have enough!
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I still have some tricks to teach @kabongster yet but he is far more technical than me lol I teach more textbook than I grow odd thought but I spend more time on others plants than my own 
He won’t lead you astray if lost he’ll pick my brain or do the research before suggesting things 
I just have those highly lucid moments where I can explain things in highly relateable terms (dumbed down) so to speak you can’t go wrong with his help
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@Bogleg must have been the mobile browser/ no bandwidth issue. They loaded fine when I had one more bar of service and also from the laptop.
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Weekly full update. Today is 14 days since I switched the lights. Both plants are showing pistils as of this morning - SSH was showing them yesterday. They are 78 days from first sprout.
Here is the GL:
I am probably done doing and training I think. I will have a second screen built but I am going to wait a week and then decide.
I took a lot out from under it yesterday and pruned some branches that weren’t quite to the screen yet:
She had a complete res change today and I put 8 gallons of water in at a PH of 5.79 and a PPM of 726.
Here is the SSH:
All seems good with her. I am upping her nutes this week and have filled her res with 8 gallons of PH 5.71 and 1030 PPM.
I will be keeping a close eye on them, as I expect I’ll want to raise the nutrient levels as we go along.
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Looks great, nice job under the canopy.
If any thing is big enough you can make a monster cropped clone , most do it around 21 day into flower. Just laying it down.
You can pick it up and running or just kick it in the fire.
Anyhoo they are looking awesome 
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I would love to monster crop - if I had room to grow clones. Something to ruminate on for a 2018 expansion… vegging chamber.
Quick update today. The plants look pretty good - I’m keeping an eye on light distance at the moment. I topped them both off this morning and decided to top off with nutrient-loaded water. I added in the Koolbloom and Floranectar, etc. per the General Hydroponics feed chart calculator. So the new water had the following in it per gallon:
FloraMicro - 4ml
FloraGro - 1ml
FloraBloom - 5ml (it called for 6 but I accidentally put in 5, oh well)
Liquid Koolbloom - 2ml
Armor Si - 2ml
FloraNectar - 3ml
CalMag - 3ml
The PPM for that mixture, plus the 67PPM baseline for my tap water, came out to 728. My TDS meter is a little off (about 10 ppm) when checked against the reference solution, so I need to calibrate it. Anyway around 750 for that concoction.
Both the plants had higher PH and PPMs today before I topped off. The GL was at 6.12PH and 830 PPM. The SSH was at 6.01PH and 1230 PPM.
After the top off, the GL is now at 5.85 and ~850 PPM, and the SSH is at 5.81 and around 1170 PPM.
The plants are stretching and flowers are forming! I am thinking the second screen is going on the GL this week:
So here is my question for the SCROG masters out there: Both plants are showing developing flowers. They are both stretching (2-3" of growth since yesterday). Can I train the stems with flowers on them if they are still flexible? Or once they have a flower pointing at the light should I leave it alone? @Myfriendis410 @bob31 @kabongster I did do some tucking this morning.
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It’s normal to continue to tuck during stretch.
What’s not as normal, is to be topping plants after you’ve switched to flowering schedule. Was there a particular reason you topped them?
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I didn’t top them. Did I say I topped them somewhere? I just did a little light tucking this morning and plucked a fan leaf or two that was blocking a couple of potential tops.
Oh I get the confusion. I topped off their reservoirs. Not “topping” as in cutting the plants. 
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Oh good! Ya I went back and read again, sorry for the confusion. There were a lot of words that involved topped haha.
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Absolutely! Keep tucking and training your plant. I will futz with the position of the tops the entire flowering period. If it’s really dense inside, don’t hesitate to remove leaves that are hiding productive areas. And definitely remove everything under the canopy.
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@dbrn32 - what would you think about me adding a pair of MarsHydro 300w lamps to my grow? I am kind of thinking I want to boost the light now that I’m hitting flower, and they are a cheap short-term solution. It looks to me like I need more light on the front and back of the space - the way I did the SCROG I have major colas at the edges of the space and I think I want to get more light on them.
Thoughts? That’s about $150 for another 260 or so of watts. Not sure if my breaker can handle it… but I can figure out how to solve that problem if I need to. At some point I should probably get a breaker just for the grow tent anyway.
Last consideration is heat, but I have my little radiant heater in the tent turned almost all the way up and my temps are hitting 81F just above the canopy right now, so I am not worried about heat (at least until Spring).
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How big is the scrog net? Throwing some extra light at the edges should definitely help your bud development. But I always like to caution people looking for short term solutions. A hundred bucks here and a hundred bucks there isn’t a big deal for someone that has it. But you usually end up with some pretty serious cash wrapped up into stuff that isn’t ideal for your operation.
I’m certainly not telling you what to do, spend your money as you see fit. But it may be a better idea to just deal with what you have on this grow, or even the next couple of grows. And then when you’re ready give the space a complete overhaul. If that’s not something you’re interested in doing, at least look at the future use of what you plan to purchase.
Do you have or plan to have a dedicated veg area? Picking up lights that would eventually fit that duty now may be a good idea. Even if they aren’t exactly the best for the immediate use. You expressed some interest in getting into some cobs, would building a cob bar be an option right now? The only reason I suggest that is because I’d be willing to bet your weakest spots are in the corners and a small squarish panel will only help that so much. For that matter, you could even do some bars with high powered discreet diodes quite a bit cheaper, but the build difficulty goes up some.
Anyway, just ponder that and get back to me with the size of your scrog. I’m thinking it looks to be about 3’x3’ But I would rather be sure. And I’ll take a look around for some comparable options.
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