It's a common misunderstanding between equivalent and actual draw "wattage" .
The actual draw is only to demonstrate that they are using less Watts from the wall and are express in watt to facilitate the customer to calculate the kilowatt hour consumption and show the difference in electricity gain of efficiency
The equivalent "wattage" is for the equivalence of lumens,lux or foot candle produce by a real draw light, example : 1000 watts hid draw 1000 watt and have a certain amount of lumens, lux or foot candle value to it, an equivalent 1000 watts draw about 200 watts, however, it has the same lumens, lux and foot candle as the 1000 watts hid.
Of course, some led compagny take advantage of this misunderstanding and cheat on the equivalence factor, so, be an inform customer, and do your homework before buying.
So, the chart is an approximation as stated, it's only a guide line... each compagny, as stated @bob31 and you, have different specifications, even for a "real draw" you're going to have the same problem when come to LED light distance... You can only give an approximation since the lumens lux or foot candle is gone a differ from one compagny to another, depends on what the driver they are using and how much they push the diodes or the COB and what kind of diodes or COB they are using...
Then, choose one that give the most lumens and PAR for your money.... If the compagny doesn't provide them, do not buy... even COB... Do not blindly believe what they are advertising...
Here's something else, the quality of the driver in those lamps are as important as the the lumens and the PAR... It's directly responsible for "pushing" the diodes or the COB... explanation : a diode or a COB as a certain limit or "wattage" like any bulbs, if you push them to their maximum capacity, they will be brighter but are going to be as "energyvor" as HID and their lifespan will be much shorter... more you push them less longer they will last... You can be OK with a driver that push from 20% to 50% of the capacity of the diodes or COB. No more, no less.
Cree and Citizen chips on COB are pricey but are the most efficient in the market for I can deduct from their specifications... I almost forgot, the beam angle is gone a play a major role in the PAR and lumens and should be between 60°and 90°.
I hope that I have enlighten you a little on the subject @Rugar89, do not hesitate if you have further questions or if you want some clarification,