And for God’s Sakes, put a lock on the closet door!
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I’ll add that my PVC stadium lighting is not glued. I left the cut edges raw so they would stay tight, and I have longer feet on one side to offset the weight of the bulbs. Of note, I put the “T” in after about a foot of PVC, and everything below that is adjustable. I have several connectors, and various sizes of pipe to adjust the height.
But for a permanent fixture, there are PVC caps (or duct tape), the base could be filled with sand. My goal was to have the middle part adjustable for height, without having to worry about the electrical.
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Sorry, I was commenting on @Whodat66 light base. I agreed with @VelcroThumb. Just remember a surge protector is only 10A usually so don’t overload it. That’s around 1,000 watts max (110v x 10A ).
@OldSkunk and @TxFlyer there are larger surge protectors to run higher end computer equipment for about 60 or $70usd. Thays what i use, as they are higher rated for higher surges. My original surge protector would trip with everything i had running so i opted to get an upgraded surge protector… way worth it IMO
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TxFlyer. If you are going to replace the light fixture with a standard outlet, make sure you double check which breaker to switch off. Talking from experience here. There’s nothing worse than being on a ladder and sparking off what seemed like a 4th of July extravaganza. I’m not sure how I ended up landing on my feet.
I double and triple check heat work now.
I assume you enjoy flying? I own a Baron.
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