Let's talk DIY lights


#141

It’s also slightly different animal with drive currents moving to cree, as we discussed much earlier in the thread. Even if cob cost is same, running each at recommended levels would put 4 3590’s at about a 200 watt light. And 4 vero 29’s at over a 300 watt light. Since the efficacy is very similar, you’re looking at around a 25-30% increase in light using the vero over the cree for about the same price.

Does that make more sense than all the babbling I did earlier in the thread @ktreez420?


#142

There’s a light hack built into those comments for everyone else. If your led has anything in front of or around it, it will reduce efficacy.

All of the commercial panels with a glass or plastic cover between your led and canopy are hurting your light. Most can be easily removed. Keep in mind you will most likely void any warranty and waterproof rating, so it’s not something that’s a great idea for everyone. But you can squeeze a little more out of your old beat up Mars panel if you’d like.


#143

how much light, in percentage does it take away. I was thinking about putting covers on my quantum boards. It freaks me out that they don’t have covers


#144

No that’s awesome info dude, if I don’t need the reflectors then why would I buy them lol!! I want light spread, not focused, so thank you for clearing that up for me. I’m going with the vero29’s, I’ve decided. Is 5000k best for veg, or would a 4000k be better? I know the 5000k will have more blue, but I like the idea of high blue and some red, so you tell me mentor lol!

So, 4 Vero29 SE COB’s at 5000k. HLG-320H-C1400A driver, 4 - 180mm heat sinks, graphite thermal pad, wago thermal blocks, and I found a canopy rail on rapid for $25. What’re your thoughts on rails/mounting the COB’s? Could I just make something myself, or is this a good deal?

Once again, thank you as always for all the help dude!! You’re awesome!

:v::evergreen_tree::evergreen_tree:


#145

Ok @ktreez420 let’s try to capture it all.

5000k is better for strictly veg. But a 4000k will veg pretty good, and be fairly good in flower if you decided to change your plans any. Either way, choice is up to you.

The driver you want is the hlg-320h-c2100a. Pretty much same driver, but 2100ma output. That will have dimming pot built in as well.

That canopy rail is sweet! However, I’m not sure it will be compatible with your 180mm heatsinks. I think it is sized specifically for rapids 140mm heatsinks. But don’t take my word, I would call or email them and check. Who knows, maybe it’s adjustable or they can build one specific to Jerry’s heatsink. At $25 if it will work, I’d probably get it. I typically use 1"x1"x1/8" aluminum angle to build frame. I have a supplier local that I get reasonable price from, otherwise home depot/lowes/menards are a little pricey. The angle is pretty rigid if you get 1/8" wall thickness, and light. If you have other stuff laying around or you can deal on, by all means make it your own. Just sharing what I feel is best option for me. But you can absolutely make something yourself. I was just thinking you’d probably be close to or over the $25 in materials, to the rapid frame is a fair option if it will work.


#146

I’m not sure. Look around or maybe check with the hlg guys. With the amount of coverage you have, they may be a good thing for you.


#147

@ktreez420 I found a video that talks about the vero 29 cob specifically. I would suggest reviewing entire video when you have time. But at around the 1:50 mark, they start comparing most of the major players in commercial lighting. They rank them by ųmols per $1, which is pretty much the target of diy lighting. While they’re not putting each fixture in front of a par meter in this video, they are the biggest and most trusted names in diy lighting. The relevance here for you, is that your light will be strikingly close to the plc-6. The difference is that once you have the 8 cobs, you’ll be running the same wattage with a better spread and higher electrical efficiency.


#148

Hey guys, quick question, well i talked to the people who sold me the shitty led light. They wont exchange or give me my full refund but i got a %refund back . i paid 52 an they gave me 50% back an let me keep the light. Win win for me cause i told them it was defective an all. Anyway my question is, im assuming they put a crappy 100w driver in the light. Can i put, lets say a 300watt driver inplace of the crappy 100w they have in it? Theres 60 10w leds, so imo they should be able to handle 600w max rite? But if i go with half that, it shouldnt burn them out quick ect ect. What do you think guys? Please someone help me out with this.


#149

@Banksmoney6485 it doesn’t really work like that. But we could possibly find a way to improve your light. What light is it, and can you take some pics or explain as much about it as possible?

Size, driver voltage and current, heat sinks, type of led? The more info you share, the more we can probably help


#150

@dbrn32 honestly brother, i really dont know much about it. I got ripped off on ebay. It was sapposed to be a 600w full spec light, this is the description of it. Yes i can post pics. Just give me a sec because i have to go into the dark room an grab the light. Heres what got me as i dont know squat about led.


#151

Also @dbrn32 it says theres no uv or ir but theres 2 bulbs that are completely dif then the rest. I think 1 is uv an the other is ir. Im gettin the light now


#152

The 2 leds i circled, i think 1 is uv an the other is ir. Il snap a pic of the driver now


#153

@dbrn32


#154

Ok. I see some questionable stuff in the description here. To start, it’s actual power is 100 watts but it draws over 5 amps at 110v? 2 dim leds could definitely be any combination of of uv, ir, or just failed diodes.

I’m gonna go out on a limb and guess the 5 amps is the driver current, and there are couple of parallel connected strings of leds. We can possibly work with that, but I really don’t like to. See if you can find any info printed on the driver itself. That will help a lot!

The main reason you shouldn’t just wire up a different driver is because of the possibility of some of the diodes rating being much less than others. But I’ll help if I can.

Have you considered the possibility of reusing the case, heat sink, and fan. Then replacing the diodes and driver? Depending on their size, there are options from mildly inexpensive to pretty damn sweet.


#155

If you unscrew the driver, anything printed on the bottom or sides?

Also, is there no aluminum heatsink on the other side of the pcb?


#156

There nothing printed anywhere except in the pics that follow. When i unscrewed the driver its just like a rubber . nothing printed. The driver is completly blank. No heat sinks either, also im up for buting better leds an driver


Sorry its upside down


#157


#158

Like i said, im up for puttin in dif led board an driver, i just dont know what gos together. I know theres 2 dif Kinds of drivers. I dont know how much a led can handle or even how much volts go thru leds. Lol. Help please? Lol


#159

If i hook up a dif driver an burn out them leds. Itll make it worth the 52 dollers i spent on them. Lol


#160

I like your sense of humor about it haha! I would feel a lot more comfortable replacing led and driver than I would trying to work with them. What are the measurements of the led board? I will take a look around to see what will fit.

What specifically about the light would you like to improve? And do you use the light for full grow, veg stage, or flower stage?