I received my seeds. Here we go


#21

Incidentally, these clones are not doing well. Probably because of the netting.
I have named them all to differentiate between them. I won’t bury you with pix yet. As they may croak. I am cutting the net carefully away in an attempt to revive them. Once that does or doesn’t work I may ask for help. Seems like my 1st problem was quickly answered here. We deal with that firsthand, then come back. Thank you.


#22

As a WW grow update.
I feared that the large tap root growing out the bottom of the paper cup would dry out and die. So, I transplanted it to 6 inch pot. I also transplanted two of its sisters as well. The other two are a little further behind. No sense in doing everything the same right now in case something goes bad, I’ll have a fall back plan. But they are doing well, well rooted and firm to handle(gently) they were growing their second set of real leaves.


#23

One thing that the clones have that your seeds don’t. They are female and not feminized, which can make for a hardier plant. Less prone to hermi on you.


#24

…they are female and are not feminized. Could you take this a little deeper @Myfriendis410? I don’t understand your statement.


#25

The process used to produce feminized seeds results in a plant that is more sensitive to outside influence like light schedule or temperature or nutrient load etc. which makes for a less robust female, more prone to hermaphrodite than a plant from a seed pollinated by a male.

My point being that if those clones make good weed you may want to continue cloning.


#26

Journal Update: Jan. 21st.
The WW s continue their slow APPEARING growth. I hope they are producing roots at this time, as all I have to show are beginnings of the second set of serrated leaves. 3 of them are in 6”pots. Their lag behind sisters are still taking a ride in the solo cups. All are under high output Biax T5s.

Status on the clones:
It’s been a tough learning curve this week. I read/search the forum every day almost with an obsession. I frequently read about making a change and seeing the plant’s respond over night. I’ve yet to see that happen. It makes for hard diagnosis.
Elsewhere on the forum I told of my clones being root bound in their peat pellets and barely rooting into the 4” peat pot of potting soil that I receveid them in. These plants were a little off color upon receipt. Kinda limey green and a little droopy. Being clones they had yet to see nutes or HID.
I eased them into my tent with HID 4 feet away with a douse of straight 6.8 ph tap water. I discovered the roots pellet bound when I went to transplant them to their 5 gal. fabric homes. After much consideration, decided to carefully split the netting so roots could more easily emerge. Only one had roots grow through net and very tiny ones at that.

So after a week the 4 clones are still with us. Because I lack room for all of these, in addition to those of my WWgrow, to go to full maturity, I will experiment with them. As said, I gave them names to follow there growth.
“King” and “Straightshooter” were both transferred to 5 gallon fabric pots and are under HID.
“Shrimpy” went into 6” pot and is residing under high output T5s.
That left me with an option I wanted to try. Side by side comparison of soil vs.hydro.
So, “ShortBush” went into a 5 gallon DWC.

This weeks questions: for @Donaldj and other hydro people, I have trouble keeping a steady pH. It seems to change over night usually rising. Is this the norm? Daily adjustments to maintain pH?

Second, I don’t see much in the way of how to maintain(top, FIM or whatever) with clones. Reason I ask is my close look like bushy buds not leave nodes. Do I pinch leave alone or are these to be instant 12/12 go to bud tiny plants. I think maybe my clone were cut in flower maybe.

Last question pertaining to hydro. When putting a “rooted in a pellet” plant into a bubble bucket DWC, what is done with the small amount of peat at the root ball.
I have Rhizo Type basket with the inverted cone and the standing platform in the middle BTW. My plan at this point is over fill to bucket to the platform height in DWC utilizing top drip until I get substantial roots, then dropping level to let bubbles do their thing.

Enough for the update. Let’s go GROW something!


#27

Pertaining to my hydro DWC. Currently as of 11am EST :us:,my pH is 6.0 and Solution TDS is at only 340ppm. Leaving it there until I see some suggestions of what’s up and where I should be and how to get there.

Not too much to ask. LOL :joy: but I am learning.
Thanks Mike.


#28

Ph is quite often determined by amount of nutrients in your nutrient solution if you are running a res low ppm ph will tend to change quite fast. PPM and ph have a direct correlation if you tested odds are your ppm lowers as ph rises and as ppm rises ph lowers. The goal should be to get ppm to atleast 600 which is more stable ph and not to adjust ph unless it is out of range 5.5-6.1 it doesn’t need to be kept at 5.8 at all times it can swing some so long as it stays in close range


#29

2 simple ways to reduce ph swings
1# increase res volume the greater the volume in your res the less ppm and ph swing
2# the higher the ppm the greater nutrients influence ph


#30

Thanks @Donaldj just the kind of answer I needed.


#31

A couple of things: getting a clone from a flowering plant is called “Monster Cropped” and is a valuable technique that produces more vigorous plants.

Your clones are in all likelihood hungry. Time for a dose of nutes.


#32

Latest clone pix of new growth. I was expecting leave nodes to develop. What’s going on here; and what do I do next?


#33

Since you have new growth, I’d start by taking off the leaves touching the soil and the older leaves that are dead too


#34

@MattyBear , As a standard practice? Is This something that is done because the new growth has proved the fans have served their purpose?
(I think I read clipping the tips stops their growth,but leaving the rest is for photosynthesis to still take place. Correct?)
The purpose I believe, is to attract the light to make plant grow. Now that plant has grown,they can go?
How can the new growth “little”leaves, make up for the surface area of those big fans?
As to the dirt touching leaves. Should I have clipped them earlier?


#35

Just start by clipping the ones touching the dirt. That’s how diseases can be introduced.


#36

Yes, and they are ready for a feeding if you are in media. I would leave them be for another week before doing any training besides removing bad leaf material.


#37

THE CLONES
O.K. I need some coaching here. I expected more branching with the new growth. It looks to me like leaves are just stacking up here. I don’t know what to do next as far as topping. If I wait do they stretch out node for node or is this the beginning of a flower? Of interest to me is the thre white thingys in the pic. Are those the start of pistols already?


WW Grow.
Stubborn little things these were. Took a slow start to do any thing, but we’re off and running now, 12 days from germ.


#38

Pix came in wrong order. But you guys knew that!


#39


#40

Yes sir that’s pistols. Thats a sign they are mature plants , they are clones so they are the same age as the plant you cut them from