If I were you , I would keep everything as is… she looks like she’s in her sweet spot…
You must understand that as long as there is 12 hours of light she will be able to do her thing… so if she’s happy and flowering at 16 / 8 , I would leave her right there until 3 weeks from harvest then I would drop down to 12/12 … really ripen her up…
@peachfuzz. The lights have been on 12/12 since 1/13. What I’m wondering is if there are enough of the auto genes in it to bring my lights back up also @TDubWilly. If it is a super, I have no idea. I got my seeds from ilgm
I should add that when I pH the water I try to get between 5.5 and 6. I only have the GH pH and not a digital pH meter so I gotta judge by looking at the color of the test water and the pH chart that came with it
Just stay where your at with the light schedule… they only need 12 hours of light to do there best… a longer light period isn’t going to grow bigger buds or give you a better yeild… if you change the light schedule now , all’s you will do is confus your girl… just let her do her thing… she’s too far into flower to be messing with her…
I don’t even touch my girls after 3 weeks from light flip… if I didn’t do it by then , then it don’t get done…
Alright folks. Nothing new, just thought I’d share a few pics of the whole setup. Would have done it earlier but the ole lady works 3rd and I spend time with her til she heads off.
@dbrn32. You’re the light guy so I’ll ask you. I have a total of 450w in a 20"x36" tent. My two 300 watters are enough for my size tent, the cob is just extra light. My ? Is: red light is better for flower and losing some light from the cob is no problem so I took a zip lock bag, cut it in half and colored it in with a red sharpy so the light that filters through is more red. Here’s a pic
My question is, do you think it’s putting off the right spectrum for better flower? Again, I’m not too pressed about the light loss going through the plastic since my other lights are plenty. Thanks
Good question, I don’t have a good answer. I’m not sure if acts as a filter or just makes it appear to. @1BigFella has done some work with the filters, maybe he can help.
There are two red absorption peaks for the two chlorophylls. One at 640 nm and one at 660 nm. Red-red LEDs are 660 and orange-red are 640. If you want to hit those peaks you probably need both because monochrome LEDs usually have one narrow peak. On the other hand, the chlorophyll peaks are broad and overlap a bit so either type LED is probably good enough.
Your red sharpy filter is okay. It IS a functional filter and it’s probably broad enough to let any reddish wavelength through. The interesting experiment is to turn on just the white lights and measure what comes through the red filter with a lux meter. Then you also turn on the red lights and measure it again. If it doubles then you are adding as much red light as the white light has, and so forth. I think if you are adding that much red it will help flowering. If you are raising it by 5% then it may not be worth the extra electricity.
But those “white lights” look pretty yellow to me. Do you know their color temperature? If it’s 3500 K, then you probably don’t need to add red light. If it’s 5000 K, you should.
@1BigFella. Not sure what color temp they are. I’ll have to do some research and find out. Got me kinda curious about it. I’ll find out and post in case anyone else wants to know
@1BigFella I did my research. Found that the website says it close to what the crees put off. Also said it was 3000k temp. Here’s a screenshot of the spectrum graph for it. Also found something kinda interesting, hey @ktreez420 is this your Amazon review?