Having issues like most newbies

I think my light distance was causing my plant growth to slow down . Now I found the sweet spot now I think , just in 12 hours I noticed a difference . Besides the lights have dimmeable switches with no way of knowing what’s 20% of power , I fiddle with that back and forth , had high temps a few days , ordered fans , now it’s 73.4 off 78.9 on humidity 77% off and 69-74% on . I’m guessing a day and night Titan control switch with co2 reader will be my next purchase , so I can set the fans for a too high level to cut on , and a to low level to shut off , and my next run should be dialed in to give me assurance to complete the transaction on my Amazon wish list for another tent and gadgets to have a sea of green kind of schedule , a few more great genetic strains from ILGM and I should be able to maintain a variety of great quality of medical to have .

What a major difference in simply knowing how to set light height . Wow !!! If I can just manage to simulate climates with the dials on this light , I will be so over whelmed after all the headaches . For a moment I thought this was a very bad expensive science project investment . Now I’m thinking knowing what I didn’t know to now what seems to be right could actually have great results .

Ok now one headache has been accomplished . Now I have to figure out how much water to each plant , because of the lack of heat now , the soil won’t dry as fast like mh or hps lights , or hot temps . I did a half gallon to a 3 gallon bucket , and in 2 days it’s still damp . In order to keep a watering & feeding in 2-3 days , I’m guessing a 1/4 of gallon , to insure I don’t over saturate the soil and cause re-occurring issues do to wet soil . I’ll keep track on how long it takes soil to dry , and follow that time period the remaining of time . Using cfl’s and LED lights you have to be very cautious of not over watering the medium to soon , because of lack of heated air in grow tent . Things are turning around slowly , but I am not getting to excited just yet , until I start flowering and keeping things in perspective consistently for 7-9 weeks in flower until harvest .

dude do not water until it needs it no schedule

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Right , but a beginner don’t really know the signs of when they need water . So I’m watching for signs , and checking the weight of pots . But since the soil was wet when I planted , I’m not quite sure of what it feels like when soil is dry . But hopefully I can identify the signs of when the plants are asking for a drink .

So what are the signs plants give when they need water ? The leaves kind of flopped downward sort of , or is there any other way of knowing .

man this plant has took off , thanks to the ILGM nutrients . today I made the 12/12 switch , will update a few more photos as I go into the flowering , I’m not sure of what to expect , but really keeping things simple as to feeding and watering . A huge difference under the Advance Led lights , Wow ? What a turn around , latewood , Mac g you guys do a great job of coaching .

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it looks like it than stretched ah half inch just the first day in flower , oh oh , hope I have room for the big stretch.

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Looks like your doing pretty good man,the plant seemed to bounce back really good,I’m not too far behind you,made some of the same mistakes and ended up losing 6 out of 8 cause I was trying to do too much at once but hey looks like we’re getting it down lol

I did message Advance lighting and they said 20% in first 2 weeks in vegging , than gradually turn dials as plants grows and height adjustments is made , than first week of bloom 100% full spectrum . I’m not sure what , but mainly what’s been working is ILGM nutrients , it’s like plant magic for rookies . 1 cap full to a gallon , than just ph 6.0 rain water , than second water is a cup full just around the stem grapefruit size to wet the roots just enough right at the root zone with very little run off , than next feed was 1 1/2 caps full to a gallon . I gradually go up small is possible but more than last feeding and it seems to be working . Just feed this morning 1 1/2 caps of grow , and 2 caps of (bud) flower booster , been in flower 5 days as of today , so maybe by Thursday I’ll see some pre-flowers , because plant showed its sex weeks ago in vegging , but this is where I’m at Cash , and yes I managed to mainline train it early on when I had no idea of what I was doing , but I pulled it off . Next grow I’ll do 2 plants only , and that shall be 16 cola’s , 8 on each plant . Hopefully I remember how I did it this time for next time …haha .

here you can see the mainlining technique but I pulled to hard and the stalk split , so I put duck tape on it and in a week it healed right up .

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I see you got yours right next to your bed just like me lol,I’ll be putting a order in for ilgm nutes on friday,it’s definitely looking good though.I found myself trying to take in too much info at once,I had to slow myself down and just focus on what stage the plants were in.the 2 I got still going,I was actually able to rip them out of the soil when they were over fertilized and rip roots off of them,then I jus put the roots that were left under running water for about 3 minutes,I figured I screwed them up bad with my impatience and bipolar tendencies but much too my surprise the 2 bounced back and are finally growing good again,another 2 weeks and i will flip over to flowering.who knew you could put a plant through so much stress and it bounce back lol

Right I did the same exact thing . But ILGM nutrients is the science in a bottle . It’s chemically balance for exactly what the plant needs , and for the future , only mix what you will use . If you have 2 plants in a 3 gallon pot , one feeding should be a gallon , than water with a gallon , but next water only a half a gallon only . Unless you have high power HID lights . For me with Advance Led Lights that has been the formula since I don’t have high heat variables . But honest it’s my guest room , my wife is not a fan of organic cultivating , but she tolerates the rewards . I never took it to this extreme because of cost for equipment , but I’m glad I did . It’s almost therapeutic training and growing . It’s really relaxing and meditating what the finish product gone look like or taste . But my suggestion Cash is start with 2-4 plants max until you have a better feel for growing cause seeds is not cheap . Plus each hybrid maybe the same strain , but they have they own characteristics . If you can , buying the nutrients get the big package if you can , or make sure to stock it as much as you can , because it’s the syrom that makes growing easy and fun .

That’s funny cause my wife is the same way,not a big fan of me doing it but she will definitely enjoy the results,she sure is a fan of the money I’m saving though! I was going through 2 zips a month at 500 bucks.and yea I’ve definitely realized just keep it small for now,like you said those seeds can get expensive,I’ll go bigger once I know I can go start to finish with minimal problems.keep us posted though,would define tly like to see how yours turn out

You will have more range of growing with the nutrients start to finish with less issues , just keep it simple and basic . Remember cal-mag is like a life jacket in the first 4-6 weeks of vegging with defiencies , but ILGM nutrients you won’t experience many . $500 wow , that’s better than 800 miles driving , a hotel room , $300-$500 for medicine , than 800 miles back home twice a month ? But I will most certainly update my grow . Right now I’m going into the second week of flowering , which I still have another 7 days before I see and pre-flowers yet . Than I have about 3-5 weeks of just bud nutrients , and once they start , I’ll take a photo , than after 5 & 6 week , it will be time for the THC mass nutrients and at this point it should be getting pretty frosty and producing resin , and that’s what I’m waiting for , than the big flush , than just water on out to finish . Now here is something I read that I want to try . The forum said right before the switch into flower , leave the plants in 36-72 hours of light to trigger early sexing and to ignite the flowering , but by doing this your plant will go in safe mode and to protect itself it will use a lot of water . So I’m guessing for curing , if I can put in the dark to make it go in safe mode but use all the water in the soil , than that would help with curing , because every thread I read that did the 36-72 darkness said they plants was mad thirsty . So hopefully that will speed up the curing , but I’m gone try it .

Damn man I thought I was dropping some dough every month,I luckily have a buddy who was giving me a big price break,your gonna save yourself a whole lot of money in the long run but I greatly appreciate the advice man,it will definitely help.try to stay safe getting your medicine until you can harvest man

Yes , my last trip out west I made a significant purchase to last quite awhile , but that’s what motivated me to grow . Sick of being opiate dependent when a bowl of some great quality can be just as effective than super Herron pills that cost more than medical canabis . Pharmaceutical is not cool , it fix one thing but destroy something else , when canabis make you happy , hungry , & horny …now that’s living …blessings brother and remember what you see on the top of your growing is an indication of what’s going underneath . Take care of the roots , and the roots will take care of you .

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Hi, I am new to growing and this site. I will be starting my seeds off in peat blocks can i put the blocks into the canna terra soil or do i need to take them out of the peat first? and when will i start to use fertilizer. Thank you.

David1954.

I would start nutrients after the 6 node or the 7 or 9 signature leaf which should be about 3-4 weeks after the first set of signature leaves . When you calendar count a plant , you start not from day planted or sprouted , but after seedling has grown its first set of true leaves will start your first week , and 4-5 weeks after that you should be transplanting , if the seedling is not in its final pot you plan on finishing in to harvest . If you growing auto , make sure from start after germinating , or just putting it a half inch under soil , it’s in its final pot , because most auto’s don’t like to be transplanted . But my soil way of growing if you are using fox farm ocean forest , or roots organic , or any super soil maybe , layer your soil medium . The reason being is most ph soil is ah little hot in the beginning for seedlings , most people experience defiencies straight out the gate , and man it’s a whirl wind if you don’t really know how to fix it . You can do more harm than good if this occurs . But I layer my soil , put ph soil , like fox farm ocean or any soil with time release fertilizers on the very bottom of the pot , and about 3 inches of non organic soil on the very top , like coco coir mix with 30% perlite on top , because it’s much better for the root system of seedlings growing , and as the roots develop and become stronger , they can tolerate the ph time release fertilizers better without burning them . Now when you get pass that phase of the first 4 weeks and ready for transplanting , and it’s time for nutrients , remember less is more . Plants thrive and grow vigorously when you gradually introduce them to nutrients , to much too soon can be catastrophic or more less plenty headaches of trying to correct what you can’t see ? Learn to read the plants , what you see on top above the soil , is an indication of what’s going on beneath the soil ? When mixing nutrients , never mix concentrated nutrients together , add them to your water in parts , than ph water . Vegging ph 5.8 -6.0 is the sweet spot for vegging , and 6.0-6.2 for flowering . Start off with just ph water at 5.8 first 4 weeks in layer soil and it should respond and grow with less stress , depending on the strain . Than when you get to nutrients , always start 1/4 strength to a gal of what the bottle nutrients calls for regardless of what the bottle says , to see how your little girls respond , keep in mind ( young female plants are like young female virgins ) they can’t handle to much they first time . Than after 1/4 nutrients just water mainly around the stem or stalk of plant about a grapefruit size and not all the soil , about 20% run off and always check your ph , tds , ppm ? Than give soil time to dry out before next watering of just ph water only . Feed , water , water almost . If you using cfl’s or LED lights you want good air moving , but not to strong to help plants breath and soil to dry . Next feed 1/2 strength , than 3/4 and so on , and if you can maintain the patience and give your plants time to respond , instead of trying to force it to grow , and let it grow gradually and introduce it to the process gradually , you will enjoy the time spent of your efforts of raising a virgin plant , into a very rewarding lady at the end . This might be a little long explanation , but just to sum up the basics , so you can kind of get a handle of how it goes , and not have many issues like most beginner’s like myself . Stress plants can be revived if the problems are notice early and the right methods is applied . Depending on your nutrient system , cal-mag can be a life saver if you notice defiencies early on , but if you use Roberts ilgm nutrients , that is science in the bottle for growing plants . Follow the feeding schedule and it will definitely grow amazingly . As a reminder , there are plenty helpful guys along this forum that can definitely help you if problems arise , submit a support tick of strain , ph , tds , ppm , temputure , humidity , and those guys can tell what needs to be address . Hope this helps and if you upload pictures of your grow , create a thread and try to keep your photo’ s listed in that thread , so you don’t upset the staff of to many uploads , it consumes data , again I hope this helps , and Happy Growing , Not knowing is not knowing , it’s apart of growing !!!

one week ago , seemingly when I did transition nutrients of 50/50 grow and (bud) flower nutrients from ilgm booster , 2 of my smaller plants ph rocket to 7.5 , but the other 2 bigger plants stayed right in the sweet zone 6.0 , don’t know , and don’t want to switch back to veg to correct them , because the bigger 2 are flowering timely as supposed . Don’t have another tent , which would be very useful at a time like this , but 5 plants is to many for my lil space . Only 2 plants , mainline , super scrogged , and topped is what I can manage . 2 plants , 16 colas is my max , which is plenty for me for right now learning . Hopefully next grow will be ah lil smoother . But in the future I’m wanting to try a hydro grow with advance nutrient system , not sure which one I should start with , but the perfect ph system would be my best choice in DWC system .