First indoor grow: SCROG Gold Leaf and Chocolope


#81

Yes, that’s what I’ve got right now.


#82

It’s a nice light, just a little small for the area. If you’re planning on making some moves in the future I wouldn’t waste any money on band aids. Just ride it out.


#83

I went ahead and added 5x15W 2500K CFLs to the perimeter edges of my grow. It’s not a great installation, utilizing ties and string, but it’ll do for now until I get something more structured. And it’ll likely only be for this grow. Cost me about $14 in sockets and power strips.

I also added a renewable dehumidifier (passive absorption) to the space to aid in keeping humidity down. But I’m in the 55% realm and that seems about where I want to be at this point. Once my buds get thicker I’ll maybe drop it a bit.

I still see the results of what I think is bleaching in the center of my scrog on GL. Very sad for me. Newest growth at the buds looks OK, as does the perimeter, so I’m going to keep myself at 21" and see where it goes. You can see in the pictures here. Good news is that sugar leaves are showing up, more on Chocolope but definitely on both.




#84

There’s a very fine line sometimes between apparent light damage and just being hungry. You’ll have more photosynthetic activity where you have more light, keep that in mind.


#85

Would that still explain why leaves that are “shaded” by other leaves can have green parts in the shade and yellow out of the shade? I’m assuming yes, as photosynthesis takes place at the cellular level.

It’s interesting because my GL plant has also seemed to succumb to nute burn during veg (somewhat corroborated by @Bogleg’s recent experience). My feeding schedule seems generous as well, at every other watering which is about every 4 days. But I’ll consider an adjustment. pH in GL’s soil today was 7.0.


#86

Hard to say. I wasn’t against the possibility of you seeing some light bleaching. But when you look at the condition they’re seeing don’t think you could rule either out is all. Hopefully the added lights will balance things out a bit.


#87

I had great luck with the Goldleaf on my second grow. My first Goldleaf grow, I had the temp too high. Between 80 and 90 degrees. The buds came out loose but still really stoney. My second grow I kept it between 68 and 77 degrees 45% humidity, using all Fox farms especially Cha-Ching before the 14 day flush. It came out as some of the best weed I have ever smoked in my life. Didn’t have any luck with the afghan. The Goldleaf is a GREAT STRAIN!!
Gold leaf one day before harvest.


#88

Looks good! Keep the humidity below 50 % or less.


#89

Hey @Coperthwhite7, This is my first Gold Leaf grow. Can you describe the high for me? I’m hoping mine looks half as good as yours in a month or so. I’ve got several Gold Leaf and several Northern Lights girls in the same room and I’m hoping they don’t want too much of a difference with light, humidity and nutrients. I’ve doubled up on the GL seeds on a whim… Hope they are good.


#90

It’s really a great high. For me it’s like going surfing at the beach.
You can still function, has a GREAT taste and a GREAT smell. Not too sweet and not too piney.
Cures really well.
Really important you regulate the temp and humidity.
My first Goldleaf grow the buds were loose. Good high and good smell still, but not as good as my second grow. Big huge resin filled, tight, buds. I have to say the Fox Farms soil, Nutrients and especially Cha-Ching made all the difference.
Another thing I learned that no one told me to do, you have to trim all the little buds on the lower parts of the branches and just cut off the lower branches with the scraggly buds, while it is in the VEG stage.
You should not trim her when she is in flower. Causes stress.
Your goal is only to have the big buds at the top, where the most light is.
When you take your girls into the flower room. Those single top buds explode into huge buds. It takes about 8 weeks.
The lower the temperature, the tighter the buds.
The lower the humidity the less chance you have for any mold or bud rot.
ILGM has some good seeds. I got the Afghan which was a little too scraggly so I had to cut that strain out.
I got some O.G. Kush and Purple Power seeds from somewhere I don’t remember. Amsterdam and they were packaged commercially. Like “Joe’s seeds” or something. Thank God for clones or I would have lost the O.G. Kush strain.
The Goldleaf is in the top three I have smoked in my life, and I’m 56.
So is the O.G. Kush.
O.G. Kush the day before and at harvest. Got some Rainbow Kush(cross between Master Kush and Hindu Kush) from AMS.
Looking forward to what happens.
Here are also my harvest pictures of my Goldleaf, before they went into my closet to hang.
Turned a little purple because of the temp between 68 and 75 degrees.
All the Goldleaf buds were extremely tight and heavy.




#91

Very nice scrog @nostril!


#92

Due to the humidity levels a few days ago, I was able to go 3 days between waterings, but today the girls were quite thirsty with slightly loose leaves. I took the opportunity to increase my Tiger Bloom dosage to see if @dbrn32’s observation about potential hunger rings true. Humidity levels are down to 44%, so nutrient uptake should be faster than before with the higher humidity.

CFLs are still in place but no obvious benefit yet. The perimeter buds, especially on Chocolope, are pretty tall and loose at this point. But it’s early.

30 days since 12/12 flip, 20 days since first pistils.


#93

Looking awesome! I’m thinking I’ll harvest middle of Feb to late Feb? When do you think you will?


#94

Well, both of my strains are advertised to finish in the same timeframe, but I realize that’s unlikely in real life. I was originally hoping that GL would be ready mid-February but I can see that’s not going to happen, so I’m hoping for very early March. Feb 26th would be 9 weeks since pistils, March 5th would be 10. So that seems like a reasonable timeframe to guess at.

I wound up having to harvest SSH outside a bit early, and I certainly want to ensure I don’t do so with these. So if it’s later, it’s later. They’re ready when they are.

You’ll probably already be mid-cure before I’m cutting! :slight_smile:


#95

Sweet! Keep us posted please.


#96

Thank you sooo much for the advice. I will need to buy some Cha-Ching. As far as trim the lower part of the branches? Would you say one or two level of branches? You may have said this earlier but what’s the average Veg. time? I like your description of the high. I enjoy that thick body feel with not too much couch lock. Where the atmosphere is a bit viscus, if you know what I mean.


#97

Get rid of the really low branches. They make great clones.
Then on each branch start at the bottom and get rid if the small little sprouts and their leaves until you get about five inches from the top.
Do it slowly to avoid stress.
No one tells you this but, when you put your plant in the flower room those small, four or five inches of buds will explode!
The plant is going to focus on the top buds.
Trust me, harvesting and trimming those small buds is a pain and it’s not worth it.
I had to learn the hard way about the afghan and small buds on the bottom of your plant.
If you have O.K. seeds, like the afghan, you will get O.K. buds, even on the top.
If you have great seeds, like the Goldleaf, you will get great buds, especially on the top.
It varies as far as as long to veg.
You can put her in the flower room as soon as 1 1/2 months but, you will get smaller buds.
I usually move them into the flower room between 2 and 2 1/2 months.
Then, it will be 8-10 weeks to flower.
16 days before my harvest estimate, I start her 16 day flush.
I use to do a 14 day flush but, I think the cannabis is cleaner after a 16 day flush.
I just look at her at about 6 or 7 weeks or so and guess she is a little over two weeks before harvest,
Some strains are ripe (ready to harvest) at 8 weeks so, you start your flush 16 days, before 8 weeks.
Some strains aren’t ripe until 10 weeks.
So, you start your flush, 16 days before 10 weeks etc.
You will get better as you go.
I give my girls 13 hours of complete darkness.
I use to look at the tricombs through my jewelers loop but, it’s just easier to look at the plant.
Kind of looks the same as when a peach is ripe on a tree.
Then you match how she is looking with the flowering time and you guess.
At least that’s how I do it.
See Nostril’s pictures. They have it down.
That is picture perfect.
See how they have focused on the top of the plant?
When they put those buds in the flower room or they went into flower, they were a lot smaller.
The buds explode when they go into flower.
He also has the good mylar. The hammered kind with the lightproof backing.
Also, the netting to keep your buds spread apart for more light.
That is a great set up. Hopefully mine will be more organized in the future like Nostril’s.
Above all, I give my girls a lot of love.
No stress allowed in the flower room! :):grinning:
Peace.


#98

Wow. Those are gonna be good!


#99

@Coperthwhite7 Thanks for the detailed schedule and procedures. Hope you don’t mind but I’m going to copy your directions and attach them to the wall. I’m an old guy and not too up on all the great grow techniques. Back a million years ago when I used to grow outdoors we would just figure survival of the fittest. As far as lightproof backing is concerned I’m using that 95% "Orca film lining. It’s a little expensive but I’ve heard good things about it. I will need to buy a loop. I also have to research a proper flush technique. By the way I purchased my girls from Robert as well so they should be great.


#100

As of this morning, no apparent negative reaction to my nute dose increase. Environmental conditions also still quite good - tent is relatively stable at 43-50% humidity and temps between 75-80F. That little dehumidifier is working well!