I have no issue at all with that setup, but after seeing sink temps when @Rugar89 ran them at 2800ma, I would stress a little running them that hard on the single board sink.
If op is concerned with pulling that much power, what about something like 3 288’s on a 320h-c1750? If you go b version and leave dimming leads open would be about 100 Watts per board. Should be greater than 600 umols at 18” right? And the single board sinks should gobble that up no problem. And $40 or so cheaper.
Sounds good to me. When I looked at the HLG600 I notice they where running those boards at near there max amperage. After a certain point you lose your efficiency and just generate heat.
Well the qb boards are available now so was gonna grab all that. Heat sinks seem to be unavailable. Gonna drop id off at grandmas and come back an order. Wanna make sure i pick right stuff
You can confirm with @MAXHeadRoom, but you want the 3000k color temp.
And if you email hlg and tell them you’re buying boards they should be able to get you heatsinks. Last I heard anyway.
If you’re on the fence about driver, we can talk more about it for sure. They aren’t real pressing, as there’s probably 20 places that stock them. But if you can get your hands on boards and heatsinks, I’d definitely do that sooner than later.
Exactly. In his case, in the 5x5, a little reserve power not a bad idea. In a 2x5 I don’t see the value in the added driver cost. Especially since he’s looking to dim if possible. Based off the ledgardener par testing, I’d have no problem at all running 3 boards at 100 watts or less in this application.
Yeah was going with 6 boards and 6 heatsinks. Ill buy the ones off Amazon and then email HLG an see if they will hook me up with 6 individual heatsinks. Then im gonna get back at you. Thanks alot. Really appreciate it
Yes you can do your design plus more. Each board comes with its own heatsink and screws. All you have to do is build your frame get driver and minimum wire and you’ll be good to go
All price quotes are through Arrow. They may be cheaper at different suppliers.
Each board has a forward voltage of 54v DC. So that is your min number. Times 3 you get 162 volts. To calculate your wattage you can use this simple formula. Volts x Amps = Watts
A HLG 320H-C1750B will give you a max wattage of 284. 162 x 1.750 = 283.5
Price $75.40 ea if you buy 2 or more.
A HLG 480H-C2100B will give you a max wattage of 340. 162 x 2.1 = 340
Price $151.91 ea
A HLG 480H-C2800B will give you a max wattage of 454 12 x 2.8 = 453.6
Price $138.00 ea
Hlg-320h-c1750b was the one I recommended earlier. That would need a potentiometer hooked up to it to be able to dim. I usually don’t recommend the b to first time builders for that reason. But when the dimming circuit is left open, they’re 105-108% of rated output current. Do you get a couple of bonus watts.
If you switch last spot a instead of b, that has built in potentiometer. It will let you dim from from 100% power down to 50% power, without you doing any additional work. It’s a real nice driver too, but doesn’t have the bonus output.
Going to the hlg-480-2100 a/b is a good choice too. That would actually give you the headroom to add another board later if you wanted. I don’t think you’ll need it, but the option will be there. 2100ma is about as high as I see you wanting to run them though. So my personal opinion is that you don’t need the 2800. And I would look around at pricing too, as arrow recently raised their prices. Trc, or one of the diy grow light suppliers may have a better price.