Back Baby it's been awhile

I am debating a organic hydro grow while my temps are easy to keep cool but we’ll see?

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Are you just adding straight super soil or are you layering your soil… sounds like your soil is too hot also sounds like you killed your microbial field with the molasses. People put molasses in soil to feed the microbes as a time release because molasses takes a long time to break down. So if you over saturate the media the bacteria can’t break down the molasses in time and they choke out and die. So take it easy on the molasses. Try layering your soil so that the roots grow into the hot soil as they mature and can handle the hot load and really use your soil to it’s full benefit. @Familyman420

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Do it up brother yes it’s not the same yield but at least grow yourself a little private reserve if you know white I mean.

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Yeah i layer my containers. Layer of pumice stone 1.5" then 60-70% ss. Then a layer of a just organic seedling soil i make. With exception of pumic stone been using it for years like this.
I started the molasses lile last few weeks of last grow. Thinking is was a defeciency but ut was close enough to just focus on finish line . but now same soil. No molasses and getting a little purple starting on stems again. Never had this issue.
Top dressed with dried ground rabbit poop,humic acid, bone meal, insect frass and a little bloodmeal. Im away so cant check my journals for ratios.
Back in. Last grow when this started happening and i first noticed the purple stems i wrote it off bc they were doing great and it just started getting really cold at nights so my temps were dropping into lower 60s, figured it was cooler night temps. But then right before harvest it started showing up in leaves. Everyone said i was so close not to worry about it, but mow im worried its going to happen again.
The new ones just got first full strength notg sample pack feeding for early veg., photoplus, sl100, great white. And they each got 2TBL of that top dressing i made up. What do u add specifically to your ss for the P and K ? One if my journals has posted my recipe, and it normally goes in compost tumblers for 90days. But like a said last batch(one causing issues) didnt have it all and wasnt cooked as long. But it did have all the basics?

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@Familyman420 One question what’s your water like is it well? City?RO? or Rain?.. Sorry one multi-part question. The reason I ask is it seems like a calcium issue don’t know if it’s a deficiency or toxicity yet. Which since nectar is calcium driven could be the reason your only seeing a deficiency when the plant is in late stages. As the plant increases it’s demands as it finishes it may not be able to access enough P due to the calcium building in the soil and converting to calcium phosphate and becoming to big to be taken up by the plants rootzone. Which is not a bad thing because calcium is a binder so it’s taken excess nutrients with it as it grows and gets watered out. That’s why you see phosphorus deficiency on an otherwise healthy plant. Don’t freak out it’s just that your soil is flushing itself as you get later in the stages of growth I bet the smoke felt smooth and burnt clean.

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I have well water its about 6.8-6.9 out if the sink. But i ph to the 6.2-6.3 or what ever notg recommends during each phase if feeding. Ill be home later tonight ill post ya wjats in normally and whats in this skimpped batch. Thanks for real welcome bk. Glad we are getting to talk. This is just what i needed

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No problem glad I could help pH is perfect I meant more along the lines of mineral content your water might have excess minerals like calcium. Check the ppm of your water if it’s anything above 200 you have excess minerals. No biggie just be aware that you will run into this issue so you may want to pick varieties that don’t require a long flower period.

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Ppm is between 120-126 my closest neighbornis a certified organic 100acre farm so dont thinknits farm run off either. I will recheck the pom tonight its been a while

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No runoff isn’t an issue I think you half a little extra calcium in your water and that’s what is causing your plant to show deficiency as it flowers.

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Update on the ladies had some issues with some old hydrophobic soil. They are ok and recovering now. Got a girl scout cookies auto waiting to pop.

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I had reused some soil i believed to be hydrophobic from sitting outside in sun for awhile. Had to soak it with large amounts of ph water twice before it came back around. Nice grow coming along

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Add a wetting agent or bottom water Sunshine #4 is notorious for being hydrophobic a little SM90 and it’s no problem :wink: or add extra vermiculite to mix. I reuse my soil fairly often adding fresh to old then mixing in vermiculite which has a very cool wick like property

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Yeah it was my mistake I was rushing because of finals and didn’t add any vermiculite to my seed starter like I always do. My bad but I caught it and the ladies came back

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Picture of the ladies today they are doing well one of my white widow autos wants to be full grown already she’s growing straight up branches from her nodes.

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I am really fascinated with this auto it’s as if she is growing fully matured branches.

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She’s ready to get stuff done!!!

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@Familyman420 thanks for the shout out I hope you had a great Christmas and if I don’t speak to you guys happy new year @Hogmaster @MattyBear @latewood @BIGE @Countryboyjvd1971 just an update on the ladies I topped Amnesia and Whurkle

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Looking just fantastic brother great job I am following along in the background :+1::wink: happy growing

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Sorry guys it’s been crazy with the holidays looking forward to next week when I can relax. So I ordered new seeds and expanded my bank. Also started to bend the ladies and I have a hypothesis that I have put to the test. It involves tactical defoliation the premise is that slight stress and exposure to light encourages rapid growth if the plant is allowed to recover. The argument is that by cutting leaves especially fan leaves you are sacrificing overall yield. My theory is that if I tactically remove certain new growth that is still growing and not fully set I can keep the plant under controlled stress without sacrificing yield. The tactics involve selecting the right spot so that when I remove the leaf it will expose the plants undergrowth to light thus encouraging shoot devolpment. This combined with toppings and lst should provide me with a good return. I have 4 plants 2autos and 2 photos. 1of each will be cut and the others will be bent and tucked to see how the growing methods compare. Here’s some pics and the updated menu.

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I’m so glad that I’m following this. I’m looking forward to watching the differences :+1:

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