so you seen a ppm raise then topped off and it came down? If it was simply a ppm raise topping off with ph’d water would keep it on point
I guess I am wondering why it is doing this. It keeps rising 100 to 200 in a 24 hour period. So its taking up water at a faster rate then the nute consumption. Do I need to just give it water for a few days so it can consume the plants internal nutrients. I’m trying to get it balanced so it consumes water and nutes at the same rate. At the last water change I had it down to 500. I am 24 days into flower
I would leave it stable at ppm it is and top off with water as needed they may be stalling some as they switch gears though you could drop ppm some and see if it starts to level out? My guess is they will start to eat more shortly they eat when they are hungry or need to store energy is there something you recently changed in environment light distance humidity spectrum etc?
my plants stall for several days when I move them from t5’s to LEC or the temps lower
The only thing I did was move the lights up 2 inches after the pre-flower stretch, but that was a week ago. Temp and RH steady at 80/55 This problem has been going on since I started flower. I was trying to follow the PPM levels that Roberts guides have. His guides says I should be at 1150 PPM for 4th week of flower. But this is for a DWC system. Aero must have different levels because my plants can’t take that much, I got tip burn above 1000.
I also didn’t know they would stall. I haven’t heard of that, but thats why I’m asking you because you have an idea of whats going on and i’m just learning
The light move can have effect since PAR is greater at closer range this is a major reason HID growers have used cool tubes to get the lights as close as plant will let them I use light mover for same thing in essence raising a light 2" can be shutting down or reducing productivity of some major sugar factories (fan leaves) ignore fact I am dumming down explanation I answer questions for all who reads benefit So in essence by changing an angle or moving a light you can create shadows and areas where intensity is no longer high enough this triggers leaf loss and or the plant will consume stored energy in leafs which are no longer productive. This in turn means less need to eat and less need to produce energy while using stores.
Not saying for sure this is the case but I would try moving light slightly closer if you can and see what they do. Please don’t think I am talking down your understanding by not getting technical lmao I know you are a bright guy and can read between the lines and see cause and effect. I always say devil is in details and sometimes the simplest change though minor can be major contributor
I would also like to clarify that not every strain reacts the same so manipulating ppm and ph is a skill that can need adjusting with each plant or strain
@Donaldj Thank You for working with me on this issue.
So let me give you more data so we can figure this out.
8-15 AM PH-5.8 PPM 1180
Changed Water 2 gallons DI
8-15 PM PH-5.9 PPM 688
8-16 AM PH-5.8 Adjusted PPM 808
Added 1 gallon water with 10ml Bloom nutes 0-10-10
8-16 pm PH-5.9 Ajusted PPM 647
8-17 AM PH-5.8 Adjusted PPM 738
Drained water and replaced with 500 PPM water. I was trying to determine at what level the uptake of water and nutes would be equal.
8-17 PM PH-5.7 PPM 500
8-18 AM 5.8 600
PM 5.8 770 Water level was low so I added 1 gal 5ml bloom nutes 0-10-10 and 1ml cal/mag.
PM 5,8 580
8-19 AM PH 6.1 adjusted to 5.8 PPM 670
I will be needing to add 1 gallon of water at PM checks tonight
PH pen was calibrated yesterday I have to add the the plant is healthy and is not showing any signs of distress. Roots look good and there is no foul smell. I do not want to under feed them so my goal is to find that sweet spot where the nutes and water are being taken up at the same rate.
The current light distance is 8-9inches. They only stretched 2 to 4 inches during pre-bloom so thats when I moved the light up. There is no heat issue so I can drop the light to 6 inches but that would reduce my footprint slightly.
I guess I would also like to know what is the minimum PPM level I can use during flowering. Of course I want to maximize the nute intake without burning the tips.
Canopy is pretty dark under 12" but buds are definetly developing nicely fan leaves are showing burn either lack of Cal or Potassium would trigger that purple stems point to Potassium but you are adding boosters so could already be on rebound to me they look further along than you figured at 4-5 weeks I would say closer to 5 by appearance which would explain the ppm they are not feeding as much since they are ripening. By 5 weeks they would in essence be done growing the rest is just plumping and ripening which is lower demand
Keep in mind this ppm schedule includes transition as weeks counted
I wish I knew more about why plants stall I would suggest some leaf tucking to get light deeper into canopy and keep playing with ppm until you find that sweet spot I would suggest keeping boosters close to 3/4 or full dose and trim the ppm on base nutrient and additives end
That is the exact grow schedule I was following.
The stress on the fan leave came before I went into flower. I had 3 times that I stressed out this grow.
The first time was when the misters all clogged up at the same time. I believe this happened because I let the filter get to dirty. Lesson learned. I now check misters twice daily and replace as needed.
The second came when we had a short power outage for about six hours.
The third came when the plant out grew the cooler I had it in and it drank over a gallon of water in one day and the tank went dry . I know have them in a larger cooler.
The nute burns came when the PPM rose above 1000.
I know they look further along then 26 days but that is correct. I went to 12/12 on the 25 of July. I did do a 36 hour dark before going into flower so that may have accelerated flower time. But yes they do look further along to me also. And as you said they are not growing anymore but the buds are swelling. This system does claim a shorter harvest time so we may be just seeing the results of that
So i will keep on feeding bloom nutes at 3/4 to full dose until it starts needing more. Then add base nutes and additives as needed after that happens.
Should I drop the light to 6 inches?
Also you had posted a mister that you where considering, I think ventury or something like that. Could you give me a link so I could look at them further.
Thanks for your Help
some bud porn
All taken at day 27 of flower The pictures never do them justice.
I was getting nute burn on all my plants so I decided to do a just water flush for a couple of days. the plants put 300 PPM back into the water after one day. We will see what they spit out today. I was following Roberts B guide for hydro for feeding but it was to aggressive for an aeroponics system
This is what nute burn looks like. It starts at the very tips of your leaves an works its way towards the other tips of your leave like you see in the picture. It is sometimes mistaken for zinc deficancy
The leaves will not repair them selves but do not remove them because they are still producing sugars for your buds. Remove only after the center turns yellow.
Love me some bud porn! Looking good!!
I saw this spot on one of my leaves and I thought I would cut it off and see what it was under my microscope. Upon looking at the trichromes, they seem to be cloudy and there is also some amber trichromes also. Problem is they are only half way through flower.
So the question is can one plant or even one branch on a plant mature faster then the others and will this bud rot if I let it go another month.
Hey max the trics on the sugar leaves progress faster then on the buds. Is that what your seeing?
This was from a bud. It was one of the single leaves that come out of the bud
I scoped mine the other day and there were lots of amber on the leaves but on my buddy was still alot of clear. Helpful hopefully
How far along in flower are you? This leaf is only 30 days into flower That is why I ask the question because if you look at the picture it looks further along than that
Im 50 days from switch, 42 from pistols
I was looking for nanners and thought I saw some on this lower bud. So I pulled it and these are the microscope pictures. No nanners but some nice trichrome pics
30 days into flower
thats getting pretty frosty for 30 days in!