My opinions looks like a little bleaching from light and or a little nute burn maybe @Hogmaster and @bob31 can help out more then me I’m no expert but that’s what I would think @TokersHaven
Light bleaching is a deff positive considering i jad the LED much closer in its seedling days And yea the tips i think is nutr burn. I was suggested a possible potassium deff and or hungry so i fed them last week. 1. Ml of Floragrow 1.ml of cal/mag and .5 ml of Boomerang. This is to a gallon of water. 1St week for the floragrow maybe i should drop it down to.5 ml instead of the 1.0, this weeks water is only water tho…
I couldn’t agree more! I use 2 tabs per gal of FoxFarm big Bloom organic it just has bat guno and worm castings and it seem to do a great job. I use it ones a week (Monday)
Ok guys need help. Dont know if its bugs ot what… Tried looking at leaves but no sign. Maybe something else? Last ph check was 6.6, temps 68-77, humidity 64-80 (working on humidity) sprayed neem oil 2 days ago and use DE faithfully.
@Stoner_Cody420 @Countryboyjvd1971 @bob31 @B345T @garrigan62 @Donaldj @Majiktoker
no signs of mildew? high humidity could cause powdery mildew leaf spot fungis or even as simple as light burn from water droplets on leafs under intense light
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No, no signs of any mold that i can
@Donaldj I was thinking the very same thing only they call it or it’s call White Powdery Mildew
Mildew spores can be brought into the grow room through air ventilation into your grow room, your cloths, pets and be carried by animals outdoors. and land on the plant infecting other parts of the plant, buds, stems, stalks and leaves, also spores can land on indoor grow room walls, tubes, growing equipment, hoods, ballast’s, cords and etc. Spores can remain dormant until environment factors trigger it, like high humidity and cool temperatures, poor air circulation. Powdery mildew in vegetative growth is much easier to rid than in the later stages of flowering. Night time temperatures and moisture triggers spores to be released. The mildew eventually covers and coats the plant thus reducing the process of photosynthesis. If left untreated powdery mildew will infect all plants in your garden and coat your plants in flour like substance and cause leaves to “suffocate” Yellow and die off. If your plants are in flowering, depending how far into flowering, your buds will eventually become infected and will not be able to be used. Buds will have a stale moist smell and will be coated with a white powdery substance that can’t be removed no matter what you do. Very early detection in flowering plants that have powdery mildew is extremely important, the longer you wait in flowering the more impossible it gets to eradicate this, due to this, bud size gets bigger in flowering and having high humidity temperatures over 65% can trigger active spores to start, not only powdery mildew, but triggers other problems from it, like bud rot. Not only will you have lower yield, but you won’t have any buds, due to the fact mold has crippled your harvest.
Strains vary in susceptibility to molds, just like other pathogens and nutrient requirements and care.
Prevent and Control
Symptoms of your plants having powdery mildew include: white blotches of furry stuff and white spots or splotches that you can wipe off, having humidity that is over 65%, also starts on darker areas of the plant and spreads to the top. Darker areas on your plant that do not get a lot of light will start to show this first, then when spores become active it spreads to everything. The longer you let it go the harder it will be to eradicate, late flowering plants that have this are extremely hard to get rid of, due to bud density thicker in late flowering plants, because of this the mildew attacks the buds which you can’t cure mildew once it affects the buds.(also known as Bud Rot)Plants that are stressed from environment factors, or fighting pest’s will be taken over more by this mold, due to the fact it’s already fighting problems. If you see your stressed plants getting it first, try to isolate the plant and bring down humidity, better air ventilation and or negative air pressure grow room. If you have mildew with your fans running, you will need to take them down and clean them as the fans can spread spores around the room. You will need to wash down everything in your indoor grow room, spores land on everything, so everything needs to be washed with mild hot water and bleach solution. Removing infected leaves from the grow room is critical, carefully removing them and trying to not knock spores into the air is a challenge. Applying a bag over infected leaves and tying it shut then removing it helps out with not knocking up spores in the air. Making sure you use h202 on stems that have open wounds from leaves that was removed. DO NOT water when lights are going to be going out, doing this keeps water on the plants soil and causes higher humidity levels, this goes for foliar feeding. Water plants when lights first come on or there is at least 5 hours left of lights on. You want to reduce the amount of humidity as possible if your levels of RH are high, you want to keep your humidity levels around 40 to 50%, and anything over 60% is going to trigger problems. Also keeping plants spaced apart allowing maximum air flow in between plants will help minimize plant to plant infection. Using a dehumidifier can greatly reduce humidity issues. Using a meter that tells your grow room conditions like temperature, RH and time can help combat your problems, by keeping track before and after you water can tell you how much if any your humidity can rise after changes made to the grow room. Sulphur Burner is another way to prevent and kill powdery mildew by vaporizing spores in the air. (Do not apply sulfur when air temperature is near or over 90°F) Controlling your mildew outdoors can be somewhat of a challenge, you can’t control outdoor temperatures, or environmental factors, Using Vapor Gard,Wilt Pruf sprayed over the leaves can prevent infection’s.
You will need to treat your plants with various organic and chemical controls. This list will work for indoor and outdoor growers in killing and preventing Powdery Mildew. Outdoor growers can use Organics List below to help prevent Powdery Mildew of starting, even after it has started using anything below will help kill it off. (Note: When using chemical and or organic control methods, do not spray the buds, and for health and safety reasons, stay away from spraying around the buds if all possible.)
AQ10
Serenade
Plant Shield
Garden Disease Control
Fungicide containing Lime, Sulphur
JMS Stylet Oil
Saf-T-Side Spray Oil
Sunspray Ultra-Fine Spray Oil
Neem Oil
Neem 2
Kaligreen
Safer Garden Fungicide
Concern Copper Soap Fungicide
Guardian Angel
Serenade Garden Disease Control OMRI
Safer 3-in1 Garden Spray OMRI
Sulfur Vaporizer
Organocide
SM-90
Malatox
Garden Sulphur
Sulphur Burner
Sodium Bicarbonate
Chi
Mother Nature’s Karanja Oil
Concern Copper Soap Fungicide
Picture below shows Powdery Mildew
(Photo Credit: Beach Stoned)
Wrote by Stitch
Posted by garrigan62
Will
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I think you got a case of WPM (White powdery mold) I used 1tbls of hydrogen peroxide to 1gal of water then put in the mister and it workes but don’t use no more then once per week or so! Baking powder Also works. Also a damp cloth lightly wipe the leaves this should help it woked for me! Good luck hope it works out brother!!
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Wow that’s a lot of great info @garrigan62
Thanks for sharing it
Look into sulfur burning as well @TokersHaven
There’s a thread on here about it
I have a burner available just in case I need it but luckily haven’t haven’t had the need to fire it up
Good luck brother 
CB
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@Countryboyjvd1971Regular
They get upset with me when i post like that …but hey the way i see it why post info if it’s not complete and they need it now not in parts right so i take heat lmao
Will
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@garrigan62 hahahaha then the way I see it my friend you have the day beat
Every day on this side of the ground is a good day brother 
John
@garrigan62 its actually a darn good post and ill check for mold again for sure. I should mention that the white stuff on all my leaves is D.E. maybe i should wash it off but then i would just be adding even more moisture. I did have Spider mites weds of last week. Used Neem oil and fungicide3 at lights out but with fams running. When @Donaldj said mold it actually made me think poss rust mold/fungi. Ill also clean out everything tom morning. And hanks for the help.
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I was being brief in my answer sorry but many times it isn’t visibly noticable until later stages and spores do the damage it would also blend very well with DE 
Sulfur burner is my usual weapon of choice during veg but Garrigan has some awesome suggestions too
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Awsome thanks alot guys is it ok to do more than one type of treatment. Also which sprays would be better since ive started to flower? Id like o get a sulphur burner but honestly cant afford it as of now… Got to make my shopping list
Safers fungicide soap would be fairly cheap but the big thing is to get humidity down treat the cause as well as symptom
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